jon1440

I'm going to get a fresh short block (6.0) built for the coming race season and trying to decide if ARP main bolts are necessary for me. Its hard to imagine that I would need them considering there is 6 bolts for each cap. The current build is all gen 3 but with arp rod bolts. The only reason for questioning the main bolts is the added expense of honing the journals when using ARP. The rods will be gettiing checked with the arp bolts. Also will be upgrading to gen 4 rods or better.

Last season I was able to push the 1500 ext cab to low 11's. 20lbs boost, 13 degrees timing, ethanol. My guess I'm getting close to failure on the gen 3.

Z28SteveA4

iTrader: (16)

Honestly for cheap insurance it’s not worth not having them with the added weight and stress in a pick up. You are at 20lbs of boost now I’m sure you will being going higher eventually. I would get them for sure but I’m sure people will say you don’t have too. To me it’s more of peace of mind

Che70velle

iTrader: (6)

To know if ARP bolts or studs (I prefer studs on the mains) are necessary, you need to see if you have evidence of capwalk. It’s easy to spot on the registers of the block directly under the caps. The ARP stuff adds bolt torque due to a higher tensile strength (stronger) fastener. It’s really designed to just hold the cap in place better. The 6 bolt main comment you made is comical to me because I’ve always said that racers can over build anything. If GM put 10 bolt mains in there, we would still want 12 bolt mains with ARP hardware and billet caps. There is an aftermarket company making blocks with 8 bolt mains currently.
On a serous note, it is always a stronger foundation to have the ARP studs in place with a good line hone. My machinist will not...repeat...will not line hone an LS or LT blocks mains without fitting ARP studs. It’s either you step up with them, or go somewhere else, and they stay way behind with work out the door.