Graphite gasket spray for easy removal?
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From: Tasmania Australia
Graphite gasket spray for easy removal? Hi just curious if there is a spray I can use first before installing my graphite head gaskets, something that makes the removal of them easy and less messy should I ever need remove it? I dont want to use MLS. I have some copper gasket spray would this work or make it harder to remove latter?
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From: Tasmania Australia
Yes I have both MLS head gaskets and graphite ones I received yesterday but I have no way of determining if the surface prep is good enough for a good seal with the MLS gasket even with copper gasket spray. I asked the machinist who did the work and he said it's ok to use them but I've noticed a few very light scratches on head, just wanted to play it safe as it's a lot of hassle to remove heads on my car if they leak.
Yes I have both MLS head gaskets and graphite ones I received yesterday but I have no way of determining if the surface prep is good enough for a good seal with the MLS gasket even with copper gasket spray. I asked the machinist who did the work and he said it's ok to use them but I've noticed a few very light scratches on head, just wanted to play it safe as it's a lot of hassle to remove heads on my car if they leak.
Is there anyone who has copper sprayed an MLS gasket that's had an issue as a result? I know people say not to spray them and I know of some professional engine builders that do.
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Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2019
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From: Tasmania Australia
Yes I have MLS gaskets and copper spray and have researched it a lot not found one that leaked but I have a couple of scratches and don't have the device to measure the scratches so I'm playing it safe and using graphite.
I could use one graphite thin gasket on one head and another thicker MLS gasket on the other head and then I would have variable compression for a more lopey idle.
I could use one graphite thin gasket on one head and another thicker MLS gasket on the other head and then I would have variable compression for a more lopey idle.
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Verdad Gallardo Yes I have MLS gaskets and copper spray and have researched it a lot not found one that leaked but I have a couple of scratches and don't have the device to measure the scratches so I'm playing it safe and using graphite.
I could use one graphite thin gasket on one head and another thicker MLS gasket on the other head and then I would have variable compression for a more lopey idle.
I could use one graphite thin gasket on one head and another thicker MLS gasket on the other head and then I would have variable compression for a more lopey idle.
I'd apply a light copper spray coat to the MLS gaskets and run it. I've always used Cometic MLS gaskets on engines I've assembled and I've done it both ways so far without issue.
I used Cometics without any spray, have had no problems with it at all. The block was not resurfaced, but I checked level with a machinists straight edge, it was within .0015. The edges of the block had some slight ridges that were easily filed down. The surface was not mirror finish, just stock, and had some very light scratches. There were some stains I couldn't get out, from the old composite. It was never touched with any rotary tool. The heads were resurfaced to mirror finish. The very knowledgeable machinist that worked on the heads said don't spray the gasket, it can let the gasket move around and get messed up.
If there are no problems using the spray and no problem not using it
Why use it? It just adds in an unnecessary variable. I have cars come into the shop all the time where people put RTV on gaskets that do not require it, and they always leak where one without it, lasts longer or tends to never leak. There are places for sealers, and places they don't belong. These days you either use a sealer, or a gasket, not both.
People are constantly trying to fix problems they don't have and I don't get it.
Tim, post pics of the scratches you are concerned with.
For what it's worth you'll likely be just fine if you use the copper spray, but due to my experiences with sealers and gaskets I always try to avoid adding anything extra that I don't absolutely have to. I'm a tech, I do gaskets all day long every day for 20+ years...
Why use it? It just adds in an unnecessary variable. I have cars come into the shop all the time where people put RTV on gaskets that do not require it, and they always leak where one without it, lasts longer or tends to never leak. There are places for sealers, and places they don't belong. These days you either use a sealer, or a gasket, not both.
People are constantly trying to fix problems they don't have and I don't get it.
Tim, post pics of the scratches you are concerned with.
For what it's worth you'll likely be just fine if you use the copper spray, but due to my experiences with sealers and gaskets I always try to avoid adding anything extra that I don't absolutely have to. I'm a tech, I do gaskets all day long every day for 20+ years...
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jul 2019
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From: Tasmania Australia
Thanks really appreciate that I would consider using the MLS ones I have but sadly I already tightened one head down with TTY bolts and a graphite gasket. My MLS gaskets were a bit tight on bore so I spent nearly half a day machining them by hand and removing the burrs this caused, I got a couple of tiny marks on the sealing surface coating. The MLS ones I have came in a kit and are over 0.010" thicker than the new graphite ones I have, so the graphite ones give a bit more comp ratio. All things considered I may be best to stick with the graphite ones in this case.
If I ever need to take head off and there is a mess from the old graphite gasket Ill use an old piston as a template to cut tight fitting round peices of timber or rubber to fit in bores so I don't get any of the gasket material I scrape off in the bore.
Tim
If I ever need to take head off and there is a mess from the old graphite gasket Ill use an old piston as a template to cut tight fitting round peices of timber or rubber to fit in bores so I don't get any of the gasket material I scrape off in the bore.
Tim
Last edited by TimsLS1; Mar 16, 2020 at 09:45 PM.
Thanks really appreciate that I would consider using the MLS ones I have but sadly I already tightened one head down with TTY bolts and a graphite gasket. My MLS gaskets were a bit tight on bore so I spent nearly half a day machining them by hand and removing the burrs this caused, I got a couple of tiny marks on the sealing surface coating. The MLS ones I have came in a kit and are over 0.010" thicker than the new graphite ones I have, so the graphite ones give a bit more comp ratio. All things considered I may be best to stick with the graphite ones in this case.
If I ever need to take head off and there is a mess from the old graphite gasket Ill use an old piston as a template to cut tight fitting round peices of timber or rubber to fit in bores so I don't get any of the gasket material I scrape off in the bore.
Tim
If I ever need to take head off and there is a mess from the old graphite gasket Ill use an old piston as a template to cut tight fitting round peices of timber or rubber to fit in bores so I don't get any of the gasket material I scrape off in the bore.
Tim
in the diesel world copper spray caused a lot of problems for people, the motors i worked on used mls and there were alot of initial failures when people sprayed them. theres already sealant on the gasket and mls is not forgiving at all, i wouldnt risk it.