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Bought the block from a reputable mechanic, had it cleaned, bored etc. I do not believe I paid to have the mains spec'd, but I think my caps got swapped or the core shifted. What have you guys seen in the gen III iron blocks? The caps are on right, 2-4 seem to be tighter on the cap, then the block side. Also, my thrust cap is off. Anyone seen this or have a way to solve? I don't think the caps are off of it, the engine did smoke a few rods though.
It will cost more to make them fit than starting with another block. Take it back and see if he has the correct caps. If not demand a refund.
It will be $400 - $500 to line bore those caps to that block with out any other machine work.
I still might have to do that. I just spent 550 on cleaning, cam bearings, hone, bore etc. Pretty shitty, when it was dirty and some rust, it didn't appear like this.
I still might have to do that. I just spent 550 on cleaning, cam bearings, hone, bore etc. Pretty shitty, when it was dirty and some rust, it didn't appear like this.
I wasn't aware you already spent money on it.
Maybe it was in a fire then. The caps will distort. I went through this on another block that was in a fire and the oil pan was partialy melted. I was not aware the caps did not seat properly. They had an issue with the Number 1 main cap's bore shrinking. They tried to press it a small amount but it would not help. They penned the cap in the bore to relieve the stress and it worked, however it left divots That concerned me. I was concerned it would create hot spots and possibly cause bearing damage and failure. I was not made aware of any issues until I picked it up. I would have halted any work had the situation been explained to me. In the end we had to replace the cap from a donor block and it had to be cut and line bored to to correct the bore.
Hopefully they had a couple blocks apart at the same time, and mixed up the caps. Your looking at a line hone if not. Labeling parts in a shop is mandatory.
It will be $400 - $500 to line bore those caps to that block with out any other machine work.
Is that the normal price? I was quoted $600 for installing and pinning billet mains and cutting a second keyway in the crank, The line bore charge was $280 and seems like the standard price around here.
If I were the OP I would go back to the person I bought the block from and at least try to get them to cover some of the cost.
Is that the normal price? I was quoted $600 for installing and pinning billet mains and cutting a second keyway in the crank, The line bore charge was $280 and seems like the standard price around here.
If I were the OP I would go back to the person I bought the block from and at least try to get them to cover some of the cost.
Every shop and state is different. Its alot of work to set the block up to line bore the mains.
It is extra work to pin the caps. Installing Billet caps requires a Line bore to cut them to size first. A Line Hone by it self will not fit them correctly.
Every shop and state is different. Its alot of work to set the block up to line bore the mains.
It is extra work to pin the caps. Installing Billet caps requires a Line bore to cut them to size first. A Line Hone by it self will not fit them correctly.
Line bore and hone cost is $280, $600 is the total cost for everything. He charges $90hr shop rate and he's good at sticking to his quotes. I've dealt with some shops that rake you over the coals at shop rate and finally found one that gives you an honest estimate. It also doesn't hurt that he's a small shop that builds badass race engines and ships them all over the country.
Last edited by LLLosingit; Mar 23, 2020 at 10:57 PM.
I would INSIST that the shop make you whole, by whatever means, if it turns out that the caps are mismatched to the block. Which is to say, YOU shouldn't have to pay THEM to correct THEIR mistake. Be flexible with them; whether they want to replace the block with a like one (same quality of the core, same machine work, etc., of course), repair yours by line-boring, or whatever; but it should be on THEM to make it right, not you. In a perfect world, they had 2 blocks in the shop at the same time, and just got them mixed up, and can just as easily un-mix them; but whatever it takes should be THEIR responsibility.
So here is what I think has happened. I bought it from a local repair shop, who apparently got it from a friend. I think he suspected something wasn't right, but did not know what exactly.
I took my block for clean and machine, not thinking the mains were an issue. The machine shop did exactly what I asked for, but didn't catch this. The shop did not mix up my mains, I am confident of that.
Not sure if mains were from another donor, but it actually appears these were cooked and warped. The engine was said to of smoked rod bearings, they likely ran the **** out of it knowing it was done. We think these are original, with a 75% likely hood. My machinist thinks he can swedge, peen, cut then hone it back to glory. I suspect that two of the caps will have dings, as mentioned prior.
I told them to get me arp studs, since we went this deep. Now I gotta find a gen 4 crank, to match everything else.
I am still under what it would of cost to buy a crate engine. Likely $1000 in block work alone.
Anyone ever see the caps warp like this? Wonder if they had to beat the crank out, and it amazing that the mains didn't seize and spin..The number 2 cap is the worst, its the one that wont fit flush.
I relearned a lesson. Always check and then have the block checked out prior to spending money on machine work.
I doubt that caps are warped, Most likely not the caps that came on the block as other have pointed out. I don't see any signs of heat and you'de probably break one before it wapred.
Thanks for the info, some weirdness for sure and I really wish I knew for sure. Agree on the caps not being burned, just guessing that maybe hot and as it locked it torqued? Its in the 2,3,4 caps. I would certainly like to find a used set just to see if they fit any better, might reduce the hone and peen process. Mine have shrunk somehow, in some unknown block. My shop is a pretty small family business, the owner felt pretty bad for not catching this when he bored it. Something he will look at, as they felt tight due to the side bolts, but clearly not fitting tight otherwise. He does do the LS engines and is knowledable. I should of asked them to check as I didn't know a lot on the block history.
Crazy pics on the thrust and broken cap. WOW
I may have to do the same thing with billets, or just find another block. I am not going to boost or spray.
just curious but why was the block bored to begin with?
Hi, the block was exposed to the elements in a conex. The constant humidity frosted the cylinders pretty good. A few were stained and pitted. Had to punch .5mm or .020 out of it.
Last edited by LS CHEVY II; Mar 25, 2020 at 01:04 PM.
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iron block main cap issues 
