Recommended cam for my setup
#1
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1998 Z28 49miles
1 7/8 Speed Engineering headers
3" ORY
Magnaflow catback
SLP lid
SSRA
3400-3600 billet PTC stall converter
3.23 gears
still have ls1 intake but will be upgrading to a LS6
I dont plan on upgrading the heads. I also dont want something super aggressive. I would like it to be more of a sleeper cam. Not sure what kind of horsepower to expect here, but I'm open to any suggestions from people with more experience. Looking for something proven and durable, easy to tune etc.
If there is any other info needed just ask.
1 7/8 Speed Engineering headers
3" ORY
Magnaflow catback
SLP lid
SSRA
3400-3600 billet PTC stall converter
3.23 gears
still have ls1 intake but will be upgrading to a LS6
I dont plan on upgrading the heads. I also dont want something super aggressive. I would like it to be more of a sleeper cam. Not sure what kind of horsepower to expect here, but I'm open to any suggestions from people with more experience. Looking for something proven and durable, easy to tune etc.
If there is any other info needed just ask.
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,452
Received 1,851 Likes
on
1,152 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
1998 Z28 49miles
1 7/8 Speed Engineering headers
3" ORY
Magnaflow catback
SLP lid
SSRA
3400-3600 billet PTC stall converter
3.23 gears
still have ls1 intake but will be upgrading to a LS6
I dont plan on upgrading the heads. I also dont want something super aggressive. I would like it to be more of a sleeper cam. Not sure what kind of horsepower to expect here, but I'm open to any suggestions from people with more experience. Looking for something proven and durable, easy to tune etc.
If there is any other info needed just ask.
1 7/8 Speed Engineering headers
3" ORY
Magnaflow catback
SLP lid
SSRA
3400-3600 billet PTC stall converter
3.23 gears
still have ls1 intake but will be upgrading to a LS6
I dont plan on upgrading the heads. I also dont want something super aggressive. I would like it to be more of a sleeper cam. Not sure what kind of horsepower to expect here, but I'm open to any suggestions from people with more experience. Looking for something proven and durable, easy to tune etc.
If there is any other info needed just ask.
https://cammotion.com/camshafts/ls1-...214-220-115-3/
I would recommend replacing your valvesprings to PSI1511 or equivalent and bumping up to 5/16 pushrods.
The following users liked this post:
NAVYBLUE210 (05-20-2020)
#3
TECH Senior Member
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
That should be a nice cam for what you want. A couple degrees more than the old standby 212/218, plus the 115 LSA giving it -13 overlap which will idle nice with a decent tune.
#5
Moderator
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: My own internal universe
Posts: 10,452
Received 1,851 Likes
on
1,152 Posts
![](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/ranks/ls1tech10year.png)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't really like guessing at how much power a cam change will gain. too many other factors, and it's not ricer math. My best guess is 20-30 hp, all else being equal. It's not really designed to rev, and RPM is HP. I think you'll notice it more as midrange grunt than top end power.
#6
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I don't really like guessing at how much power a cam change will gain. too many other factors, and it's not ricer math. My best guess is 20-30 hp, all else being equal. It's not really designed to rev, and RPM is HP. I think you'll notice it more as midrange grunt than top end power.
#7
TECH Senior Member
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Cam Motion's cams seem to be "in tune" with what LS engines need. They know their stuff!
Trending Topics
#9
TECH Senior Member
#10
TECH Fanatic
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
My Comp "Extreme RPM High Lift" 212/218 115lsa is from 2004 and it still opens and closes the valves just fine. He's already got a 34-3600 converter so the smaller cam debating is kinda moot IMO, he can close the intake valve a little later and still keep the idle fairly tame which is why I said the gt 2-3 would be neat but if we have to step into the future then I'd recommend the summit stage 1 ghost as he also has magnaflow and can probably hide a little more overlap.
The following users liked this post:
99 Black Bird T/A (05-21-2020)
#11
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
The cam suggested by Darth would be perfectly stealthy. I think you can go bigger and still get a stealthy result if that Magnaflow catback is quiet. In my experience four things give away an aftermarket cam.
1) idle quality. Lumpy idle or idle is noticeably higher than stock.
2) valve train noise.
3) Smell if the cats are deleted. It's noticeable on bolt on car with headers but becomes more so with an aftermarket cam as the overlap goes up.
4) A loud catback makes it harder to hide an aftermarket cam. Something quiet like the old SLP dual/ dual makes it easier to hide. Magnaflow also has a quiet catback that flows great and is quiet.
IMO, you don't need to go small for good idle quality and idle is often the big factor that gives away the stealth factor.
Something as big as a Comp XFI lobe 224/230 on 115 LSA one would need to lower the idle speed down to stock to even hear the cam with a quiet catback. At around 800rpm idle there is about zero indication the car had a camshaft in it with a great tune.The sowing machine XER lobes and louder than stock valve train are another story. A nice quiet cam lobe can keep the valve train quiet and allow something as big as a 224/230 to hide in plain sight.
My h&c TA ran around for 15 years with a XER 224/224 on 113 LSA and two people noticed the car was cammed.
I'd think in terms of up to a 220 to 224 intake and 226 to 230 exhaust on a 115 with a lobe that's quiet on like a 115.
1) idle quality. Lumpy idle or idle is noticeably higher than stock.
2) valve train noise.
3) Smell if the cats are deleted. It's noticeable on bolt on car with headers but becomes more so with an aftermarket cam as the overlap goes up.
4) A loud catback makes it harder to hide an aftermarket cam. Something quiet like the old SLP dual/ dual makes it easier to hide. Magnaflow also has a quiet catback that flows great and is quiet.
IMO, you don't need to go small for good idle quality and idle is often the big factor that gives away the stealth factor.
Something as big as a Comp XFI lobe 224/230 on 115 LSA one would need to lower the idle speed down to stock to even hear the cam with a quiet catback. At around 800rpm idle there is about zero indication the car had a camshaft in it with a great tune.The sowing machine XER lobes and louder than stock valve train are another story. A nice quiet cam lobe can keep the valve train quiet and allow something as big as a 224/230 to hide in plain sight.
My h&c TA ran around for 15 years with a XER 224/224 on 113 LSA and two people noticed the car was cammed.
I'd think in terms of up to a 220 to 224 intake and 226 to 230 exhaust on a 115 with a lobe that's quiet on like a 115.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; 05-20-2020 at 02:48 PM.
#12
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think Darths recommendation is a good one for sure.
I personally, with the mentioned mods, would want a little more cam if it were mine, and by your request will throw this out there as a small, sleeper cam.
The summit stage 1 "ghost cam" is a little bit bigger than the above cam, but also is a 115+3 cam, and offers more lift. I would throw it into the mix as a great cam to consider and wouldn't recommend going any bigger, or tighter on the LSA if you don't want it to cut up pretty good and start approaching that "aggressive" cam you want to avoid. My best guess is 40-50 hp and still remain stealthy. It's hard to guess what power it will make but Mavn had excellent results running this cam and it was docile enough that he ran it with a stock converter so it's definitely in the sleeper category.
They call it the ghost cam because it's designed for stealth/to not be noticed. -3 overlap
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8715
I think both cams are great and the one Darth mentioned would be for sure in the safe zone for what you're looking for and the ghost cam would be on the bigger side, but staying in your criteria for sure.
I personally, with the mentioned mods, would want a little more cam if it were mine, and by your request will throw this out there as a small, sleeper cam.
The summit stage 1 "ghost cam" is a little bit bigger than the above cam, but also is a 115+3 cam, and offers more lift. I would throw it into the mix as a great cam to consider and wouldn't recommend going any bigger, or tighter on the LSA if you don't want it to cut up pretty good and start approaching that "aggressive" cam you want to avoid. My best guess is 40-50 hp and still remain stealthy. It's hard to guess what power it will make but Mavn had excellent results running this cam and it was docile enough that he ran it with a stock converter so it's definitely in the sleeper category.
They call it the ghost cam because it's designed for stealth/to not be noticed. -3 overlap
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8715
I think both cams are great and the one Darth mentioned would be for sure in the safe zone for what you're looking for and the ghost cam would be on the bigger side, but staying in your criteria for sure.
The following users liked this post:
00pooterSS (05-20-2020)
#14
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
I think Darths recommendation is a good one for sure.
I personally, with the mentioned mods, would want a little more cam if it were mine, and by your request will throw this out there as a small, sleeper cam.
The summit stage 1 "ghost cam" is a little bit bigger than the above cam, but also is a 115+3 cam, and offers more lift. I would throw it into the mix as a great cam to consider and wouldn't recommend going any bigger, or tighter on the LSA if you don't want it to cut up pretty good and start approaching that "aggressive" cam you want to avoid. My best guess is 40-50 hp and still remain stealthy. It's hard to guess what power it will make but Mavn had excellent results running this cam and it was docile enough that he ran it with a stock converter so it's definitely in the sleeper category.
They call it the ghost cam because it's designed for stealth/to not be noticed. -3 overlap
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8715
I think both cams are great and the one Darth mentioned would be for sure in the safe zone for what you're looking for and the ghost cam would be on the bigger side, but staying in your criteria for sure.
I personally, with the mentioned mods, would want a little more cam if it were mine, and by your request will throw this out there as a small, sleeper cam.
The summit stage 1 "ghost cam" is a little bit bigger than the above cam, but also is a 115+3 cam, and offers more lift. I would throw it into the mix as a great cam to consider and wouldn't recommend going any bigger, or tighter on the LSA if you don't want it to cut up pretty good and start approaching that "aggressive" cam you want to avoid. My best guess is 40-50 hp and still remain stealthy. It's hard to guess what power it will make but Mavn had excellent results running this cam and it was docile enough that he ran it with a stock converter so it's definitely in the sleeper category.
They call it the ghost cam because it's designed for stealth/to not be noticed. -3 overlap
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8715
I think both cams are great and the one Darth mentioned would be for sure in the safe zone for what you're looking for and the ghost cam would be on the bigger side, but staying in your criteria for sure.
I'm REALLY liking the looks of this after doing some reading. What other things do you recommend I buy to go with it?
I'm totally new to the aftermarket camshaft world.
#15
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Don't forget gaskets, assembly lube for the cam, antifreeze and oil/filter.
Read up on making dowels to hold the lifters, or consider replacing them/upgrade them and do some thinner head gaskets while you're in there. Probably get near 20 out of a basic upgrade lifter like the Morels and thinner headgaskets.
#16
TECH Apprentice
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Since you already have a 3400 -3600 stall in your '98 Z28 that cam Darth recommended in the 214/220 duration would work for your combo. Keep your powerband in line with your gears and stall to run your best. You could also think about the old stand by 212/218 duration at .050" and there is the Crane Cams 1449041 210/218. Ultimately the more duration you have at .050" the more you drive your powerband up the rpm range.
#17
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Since you already have a 3400 -3600 stall in your '98 Z28 that cam Darth recommended in the 214/220 duration would work for your combo. Keep your powerband in line with your gears and stall to run your best. You could also think about the old stand by 212/218 duration at .050" and there is the Crane Cams 1449041 210/218. Ultimately the more duration you have at .050" the more you drive your powerband up the rpm range.
I'll admit that I really need to do some more studying when it comes to things like this. I just haven't had the time.
#18
TECH Apprentice
![Default](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Yes that cam will work better with your gears, 4l60e gearing, and converter. You'll be happier with a cam that has its powerband from ~1800 to 6000 rpm because your car is currently setup to take advantage of that power.
The following 2 users liked this post by cino:
bigbomber5 (05-22-2020), G Atsma (05-21-2020)