how do I free up a "Stuck" Lifter
07-16-2004, 06:00 PM
#3
Originally Posted by SoloSport
take out the spark plug, put a GOOD and powerful air compressor, and bam... make sure the valve covers/rocker arms are off...
and how the hell would that work on the lifters????
lifters are not in the cylinder...
do you even know how a pushrod engine works???
07-16-2004, 09:00 PM
#5
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Might be a collapsed lifter, which would have to be replaced. Or maybe the oil hole to the lifter is clogged. I guess you could remove the valve cover and run the engine a bit and check for oil coming through the pushrod. It might make a mess so protect accordingly. Short of that I would suspect a rocker arm or a spring problem. Hopefully it's not a rod bearing going bad. I learned a little trick on here last week for rod bearings. Just remove the sparkplug wire from the suspected cylinder and if the tapping stops then it's the rod bearing. Sounds weird, but it makes sense if you think about it.
Dale
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07-17-2004, 02:12 PM
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Ok all you kiddies out there. I don't think one of you are older than 20 and it sounds like it.
Air to unstick a lifter?????? If the combustion force does not do what you say a compressor sure won't.
Check to make sure all is tight There is no adjustment to the lifters. The only way to find out is to inspect the parts. Crap in the oil only masks the problem if there is one. If you go in there make sure all of the lifter carriers (the plastic holders) are in good shape and that the alignment flats for the lifters are straight (90 degrees to the lifter). Some of them are off a little and could cause a problem at the lifter wheel and cam interface. It is the same lifter as the LT1 and has not been known to have problems.
Scaz
Air to unstick a lifter?????? If the combustion force does not do what you say a compressor sure won't.
Check to make sure all is tight There is no adjustment to the lifters. The only way to find out is to inspect the parts. Crap in the oil only masks the problem if there is one. If you go in there make sure all of the lifter carriers (the plastic holders) are in good shape and that the alignment flats for the lifters are straight (90 degrees to the lifter). Some of them are off a little and could cause a problem at the lifter wheel and cam interface. It is the same lifter as the LT1 and has not been known to have problems.
Scaz
07-17-2004, 02:44 PM
#10
wow, finally someone has the exact same problem as i do. i have a low rpm clicking, and its more noticeable right after i get off of the highway. the problem is, i can hear which bank of the motor its coming from, but i cant tell what cyl. it is. and on top of that, sometimes i doubt which side its coming from. i think im going to change my oil and sift through it really good and look for some bearing slivers or any good size chunks. i noticed mine clicking lightly after about 1000 miles on my cam and heads swap, and then about 2k miles later it got a tiny bit louder, and now it has leveled off. people have told me its a rod, a pushrod, a lifter, all kinds of stuff, but i have to say, pulling a plug and taking the load off of that rod to see if it quits clicking is a good idea, and of course, pulling the pushrods and rockers only takes about an hour to check everything over. but our cars suck when it comes to changing lifters. please let me know if you come up with a solution, because our cars symptoms sound exactly the same. thanks
07-17-2004, 03:58 PM
#12
pretty noticeable metalic click...comes and goes depending on driving....
had several buddies of mine listen to it...including the local owner of a performance shop here in KC..and they all have years of motor experience...they also think lifter.....
hoping its just "stuck"
gona try some Auto Trans Fluid (DexronIII/Mercron)
bout an oil filter's worth...for about 150 miles.....see if that works... it an old schooler way to rule out stuck or colapsed
had several buddies of mine listen to it...including the local owner of a performance shop here in KC..and they all have years of motor experience...they also think lifter.....
hoping its just "stuck"
gona try some Auto Trans Fluid (DexronIII/Mercron)
bout an oil filter's worth...for about 150 miles.....see if that works... it an old schooler way to rule out stuck or colapsed
07-17-2004, 04:00 PM
#13
and for the record.....I am 28 and have been racing cars and building motors since I was 16....
used to have an 8.05 1/4 mile 426 hemi-cuda.........
know plenty about motors...just usually blew them up before the lifter got "stuck" or "colapsed".....
used to have an 8.05 1/4 mile 426 hemi-cuda.........
know plenty about motors...just usually blew them up before the lifter got "stuck" or "colapsed".....
07-17-2004, 04:22 PM
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So why are you asking for other peoples ideas on this board?
Blow them up. I wouldn't admit to that.
I don't have to tell you what I have done. Pick up the National Dragster and find out for yourself.
Trans fluid is to unstick lifters in junkyard engines.
bye
Blow them up. I wouldn't admit to that.
I don't have to tell you what I have done. Pick up the National Dragster and find out for yourself.
Trans fluid is to unstick lifters in junkyard engines.
bye
Last edited by SCAZ; 07-17-2004 at 04:30 PM.
07-17-2004, 04:41 PM
#16
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Relax guys. Arguing doesn't solve the problem. Need more info.
If you have duals you could have a broken inner spring. You won't be able to see it just by looking at it you need to remove the springs to inspect them.
A stuck lifter is one of the rarest things that can happen in an LS1. Collapsed would be more probable with that 230 duration cam.
In anycase you have to at least remove the covers to inspect, and i would remove the rockers, p-rods to take a look at the lifters. with a good light beam. You could stick a thin pen magnet to catch the lifters and feel if they're free or if you catch any debris (like retainer ring)
If you have duals you could have a broken inner spring. You won't be able to see it just by looking at it you need to remove the springs to inspect them.
A stuck lifter is one of the rarest things that can happen in an LS1. Collapsed would be more probable with that 230 duration cam.
In anycase you have to at least remove the covers to inspect, and i would remove the rockers, p-rods to take a look at the lifters. with a good light beam. You could stick a thin pen magnet to catch the lifters and feel if they're free or if you catch any debris (like retainer ring)
07-17-2004, 04:51 PM
#17
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P-Z
You usually bend a pushrod when you break the inner spring because an end gets between the coils of the outer spring and causes a solid stack up.
Have you guys tried the Schubeck roller lifter. It only has .010 or .020 travel. They are made for racing. You need an adjustable valvetrain. They act like solids and do not pump up or collapse. You preload them very little. We run them to 7800 rpm with no problem.
Keep you eyes open for Jessel to come out with an aluminum lifter guide to replace those plastic things. Check out their rocker system too.
You usually bend a pushrod when you break the inner spring because an end gets between the coils of the outer spring and causes a solid stack up.
Have you guys tried the Schubeck roller lifter. It only has .010 or .020 travel. They are made for racing. You need an adjustable valvetrain. They act like solids and do not pump up or collapse. You preload them very little. We run them to 7800 rpm with no problem.
Keep you eyes open for Jessel to come out with an aluminum lifter guide to replace those plastic things. Check out their rocker system too.
Last edited by SCAZ; 07-17-2004 at 05:06 PM.
07-17-2004, 06:31 PM
#18
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How is your oil pressure?...When I had a torn O-Ring from the pick up tube to the oil pump, my lifters made some noise...After i replaced the oil pump and replaced the O-ring all problems were solved...Oil pressure was at 25-30 during idle then about 40 during cruise...
Kevin
Kevin
