What's going on everyone, hope all is well!

So , I have a lq9 on my hands. I got it bored over to a 6.2, machine work for block and crank is done. For my set up so far I'm looking into running a ls3 style intake, and also ls3 "823" rectangular port heads. I will be running a t56 manual in a 3rd gen camaro. This is not a build for racing i'm expecting to daily the car, the 6.2 will have plenty of bottom end for me. I'm looking to increase the top end for the perfect trifecta of equal hp and smooth bottom end torque. The cam I'm looking to run is a 'Trick flow" at (050) Intake lift - 228 , Exhaust lift -230, Intake valve Lift - 0.585 , Exhaust Valve Lift - 0.585, and the lobe is 112 , Part # TFS-30602003 , If anyone has a set up close to this or has ran this cam, feedback highly appreciated!

 

823's are rectangular ports but that sounds like a good recipe for what your wanting.

 

Right , I mix them all the time , I literally just pulled the number off my heads to write this thread .

 

I would suggest the Cam Motion Titan 2 LS3 222*/230* 113*+3* a MUCH BETTER cam for your Heads/Combo & Goals.
LS3 Heads need at least +8-12* exhaust split IMO NA, The other cam better is suited to cathedral heads.
Just my .02
Good Luck

 

always great to see another 3rd Gen swap! Even better seeing another car being built that can be a daily.

In keeping with what the others said I would pick a different cam with rectangular heads. I have a 383 LS1 & T56 w/4.10's in my 3rd Gen with a 229/229 cam. Its definitely a small cam for the cubes and drives nearly stock. The LS3 is only about 6 cubes smaller with a much better bore and better flow heads & intake.

I'd favor the Cam Motion Titan 3 LS3 Camshaft (227/237-113+3.5) with the LS3's 376 cubes. Ideally with more gear in the rear.

In my experience with M6 cars - the stock 10 bolt 3.42 gears SUCK - a gear swap to 3.90's or 4.10's will be way more fun to drive with any cam or even a stock engine in my experience. My RS can get 24-25 mpg highway with 4.10's and T56 so more gear just adds more fun. Car can do the daily and 1,300 mile trips with ease.

Best wishes with your build!

FWIW - toss the GM shifter if you haven't already. There are many excellent aftermarket choices. I like the Pro 5.0 but B&M Ripper, Hurst & MGW are very popular too and all are better than the sloppy stock shifter.

 

I just picked up my own LQ4 for my first ls turbo engine build. Took a chance on an ebay junkyard block, and I think I did good for 150 for a bare 6.0 block. im gonna run a cam simluar in size to yours, either a summit stage 2 226/230 or stage 3 230/234 turbo cams. still debating on bore and crank for my own though. I have a bit of an idea, but thw big cubes keep calling me LOL im trying to show restraint lol thankfully/unfortunatly forged internals are expensive and will take time to gather.

 

For a Turbo build... only hone as needed, keep as much cylinder wall thickness for strength.
Keep the stock stroke/crank (good to 800+RWHP) spend on rods & pistons let the turbos do the
work and the shorter stroke is more durable with your block. I would use the smaller turbo cam.
Just my .02
There are more experienced turbo guys here than me for sure.
Good Luck

 

The 227/237 cam with LS3 heads on a 376 is much bigger then the 229/229 in your cathedral headed 383 for a daily driver relatively speaking taking cylinder head size and stroke into consideration along with total CID.

 

Lol I keep flip flopping so much on this. ive went so far as to get a stock LQ4 crank as well for just in case. picked one up for $125 and some stock 6.0L pistons and rods for $80, just incase, but I do want forged internals. Summit has been stepping uo their game lately that has me interested.

 

OP definetly look forward to your project. Might give me some ideas alongnthe way with mine. Ive decided im gonna do a 365 build with a stock crank, and summit pro ls forged pistons and rods.

 

Yes, I think it effectively amounts to ~4 degrees more intake duration plus extra exhaust. A 229/229 in a well tuned cathedral 383 drives and behaves stock. My 91 RS's 383 is usually mistaken for a stock LS1.

One can definitely go with a larger cam than I did and keep good daily driver manners. The 227/237 in a LS3 would be close to a 233/237 in a cathedral 383 - which is still pretty tame. It does depend on good tuning, compression etc of course.

I also thought of it this way - the 237/245 cam in my 416 is a daily driveable cam and on the small side. An LS3 with 40 less cubes - reduce 8 to 10 degrees of duration, so roughly a 227/237 for a manual LS3 with a good rear gear.

 

There are "better" camshafts but that Trick Flow is the exact cam as the "Sloppy Stage 2" ground by Elgin and white boxed for Jegs and Trick Flow. It's a very good all around cam for a 6 liter which Richard Holdner tested in his video " 6.0L CAMS WHAT WORKS THE BEST" it showed more upper end power of course, but surprisingly it also showed more bottom end power & torque than the factory LS3 and the factory LQ4 camshaft and that's hard to achieve. The test engine was a LY6 which is a 6.0L with rec port heads which is what you're building.

I built a LQ9 with the SS2 cam, 317 heads and it performed really well for just a cam, springs and headers truck. I payed like $235 for the new cam and $135 for the PAC 1218 springs. Easy to tune and idled well with a nice lope.

My truck idling and with a short non foot brake (short) burnout.


Richards 6.0L CAMS WHAT WORKS THE BEST?

 

Nice Truck man! It sounds smooth on the delivery for sure. I ran this exact cam specifically based off this video actually. I'm fairly new to the car world. I've only really did maintenance work to cars before now. That was my idea was to get that trifecta as smooth as possible with good bottom end and top end but n to losing either or. I need to check ls1tech more. Im like super late on these post. I see your in Sc, what part are you located in ?

 

Video above just more proof how important exhast blowdown is. Rectangle or catherdral. Cant have more intake flow. When cylinder pressure is in the way

 

Yeah I'm looking at picking up a bare block 6.0 rn, and building up from there. Prolly going to get a forged rotating assembly from Summit, as they aren't too pricey.