Progress, break in.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 123
Likes: 5
As stated above, first check needs to be the cats. They could have been pristine going in, but on a cammed car, they can still plug fast.
I have seen glowing headers from the tune being too rich or too lean at idle and from idle spark being too low. Now, if it's idling along at 16 degrees, which is lower than stock, that's not the issue. More like if it's running along at 5 degrees, with a slow burn, you'll get secondary combustion in the headers. If you have the ability to log it and post a tune, please do so.
I have seen glowing headers from the tune being too rich or too lean at idle and from idle spark being too low. Now, if it's idling along at 16 degrees, which is lower than stock, that's not the issue. More like if it's running along at 5 degrees, with a slow burn, you'll get secondary combustion in the headers. If you have the ability to log it and post a tune, please do so.
the driver side I removed did not start to glow.
thinking of just hollowing them out.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 123
Likes: 5
As stated above, first check needs to be the cats. They could have been pristine going in, but on a cammed car, they can still plug fast.
I have seen glowing headers from the tune being too rich or too lean at idle and from idle spark being too low. Now, if it's idling along at 16 degrees, which is lower than stock, that's not the issue. More like if it's running along at 5 degrees, with a slow burn, you'll get secondary combustion in the headers. If you have the ability to log it and post a tune, please do so.
I have seen glowing headers from the tune being too rich or too lean at idle and from idle spark being too low. Now, if it's idling along at 16 degrees, which is lower than stock, that's not the issue. More like if it's running along at 5 degrees, with a slow burn, you'll get secondary combustion in the headers. If you have the ability to log it and post a tune, please do so.
Get it fixed and tuned ASAP before you need to rebuild it again. 500 miles is enough to put it on a dyno but you need to get that thing tuned and sorted out before you run it anymore. The headers glowing are really bad, even for a seasoned motor that's not good.
Yeah, I would get it on the rollers. Just let them know it's lean before they get started, so that they don't send it until they get a chance to see where the fueling is at.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 123
Likes: 5
the glowing has gone down after I gutted the cats and reset TPS, Iac, air temp sens, and MAF but still not driving it until I haul it to the local tuner so he can sort that out.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 123
Likes: 5
When I took off the cats I could see really blue flames come out the header. I did the Open ram air and Ssra upgrade after the tune, so it’s definitely sucking in more air than when I got it tuned the first time.
Last edited by 392killaWs6; Jul 27, 2020 at 03:21 PM.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 123
Likes: 5
As stated above, first check needs to be the cats. They could have been pristine going in, but on a cammed car, they can still plug fast.
I have seen glowing headers from the tune being too rich or too lean at idle and from idle spark being too low. Now, if it's idling along at 16 degrees, which is lower than stock, that's not the issue. More like if it's running along at 5 degrees, with a slow burn, you'll get secondary combustion in the headers. If you have the ability to log it and post a tune, please do so.
I have seen glowing headers from the tune being too rich or too lean at idle and from idle spark being too low. Now, if it's idling along at 16 degrees, which is lower than stock, that's not the issue. More like if it's running along at 5 degrees, with a slow burn, you'll get secondary combustion in the headers. If you have the ability to log it and post a tune, please do so.
After I got out I noticed the oil pressure was dropping really low. So I pulled over to a shop around the tuner and check the break in oil and it was way too thin by 80 miles. So I changed it out to royal purple because that was my only option at that point given that I did not want to risk it driving home. Yes the oil pressure gauge is back to normal and oil had no stink of gas.
Now, I’m dealing with 2 issues an annoying MAP sensor code and sometimes TPS, IAC, and MAF codes that turn on the TCS off light on the dash, I carry the scanner connected so I erase those codes and the car goes back to normal, anyone think it’s because of the basic tune it has the until the break in?
the other issue is that I removed the abs pump and put it back on bled it but one drive and it goes back to spongey feeling. It’s already messed up my driver side disk.
Last edited by 392killaWs6; Aug 3, 2020 at 10:09 PM.
12 Second Club
Joined: Aug 2014
Posts: 205
Likes: 26
From: Houston, Texas
Use a vacuum break bleeder to remover air from system, start at passenger rear caliper first, and get you some large jugs of brake fluid so you can top it up while its bleeding the system. Did you do a hard brake to activate the ABS after filling? I don't remember it being an issue with our systems but you can get air in the ABS module and you need to cycle that out. I don't have any advice for your other codes. I'd be watching your oil pressure, what was considered really low? how is your engine temp? Perhaps you are still running hot causing oil to thin, have you checked coolant levels and made sure you don't have any air in that system. Did your tuner have any advice on the codes? I'd be cautious with the symptoms that you are describing but I am just a home hobby LS guy not a true pro. When I did my heads and cam build I did not experience the things you are describing, and I had a mail start up tune from Pat G that got me going quickly, I was able to drive car down to his dyno for final tune after just a couple of data logging sessions. Maybe call around and ask some experienced people.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Feb 2019
Posts: 123
Likes: 5
Use a vacuum break bleeder to remover air from system, start at passenger rear caliper first, and get you some large jugs of brake fluid so you can top it up while its bleeding the system. Did you do a hard brake to activate the ABS after filling? I don't remember it being an issue with our systems but you can get air in the ABS module and you need to cycle that out. I don't have any advice for your other codes. I'd be watching your oil pressure, what was considered really low? how is your engine temp? Perhaps you are still running hot causing oil to thin, have you checked coolant levels and made sure you don't have any air in that system. Did your tuner have any advice on the codes? I'd be cautious with the symptoms that you are describing but I am just a home hobby LS guy not a true pro. When I did my heads and cam build I did not experience the things you are describing, and I had a mail start up tune from Pat G that got me going quickly, I was able to drive car down to his dyno for final tune after just a couple of data logging sessions. Maybe call around and ask some experienced people.
it was 1k rpm and oil dropped a bit lower than 20. But that’s not an issue anymore. So the cam I used is described as taking more advantage of the intake manifold. So I’m guessing it needs a really good tune. Coolant is fine temp never exceeds half. I have noticed less heat come from the engine after oil change and it’s running fine, just like the tuner said no wot. I’m no pro myself. I think it’s the cam that’s shooting those codes bc he just did a base tune so I could get rid of those glowing headers said to hit the 500 Miles and then things will get serious.