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Yeah that trunnion kit is a better design. Trevor Manton also mentioned that design will last longer the bushings eventually do wear all be it MUCH slower than the bargain basement trunnion design I put in my truck. The wear issue could be a mute point on a hot rod build that is going to be low mileage. I drive my truck quite a bit though.
I ordered all new rocker arms but went a completely different direction and is a bit $$$$ Bought Yella Terra full roller rocker ultralight shaft mount rockers HERE I spoke with the engineer that helped design them, Roger Vinci. Pretty awesome stuff... really rugged design and MUCH more stable that stock style rocker arms. I shouldn't have to mess with trunnion rebuild for life of motor.
Roger wrote a white paper HERE about the rockers. Long, but SUPER informative read.
Yeah that trunnion kit is a better design. Trevor Manton also mentioned that design will last longer the bushings eventually do wear all be it MUCH slower than the bargain basement trunnion design I put in my truck. The wear issue could be a mute point on a hot rod build that is going to be low mileage. I drive my truck quite a bit though.
I ordered all new rocker arms but went a completely different direction and is a bit $$$$ Bought Yella Terra full roller rocker ultralight shaft mount rockers HERE I spoke with the engineer that helped design them, Roger Vinci. Pretty awesome stuff... really rugged design and MUCH more stable that stock style rocker arms. I shouldn't have to mess with trunnion rebuild for life of motor.
Roger wrote a white paper HERE about the rockers. Long, but SUPER informative read.
FWIW, The CHE set in my truck have around 25-30K miles on them. But the cam is less than .550 lift
Yup, I have a set of those sitting on a shelf... Also have the heavy duty 10MM Mamo version on a another motor that was supposed to go to the dyno...
Oh SUPER cool. I was browsing the catalog at Summit Racing... Then thought I'd ask Roger about what he recommended for rocker arms. He told me about those. I don't think they're much more superior to what I could find in the summit racing catalog. Manton has a killer design which supplies oil to the rollers through machined galleys in the rocker arm. However, Trevor at Manton said those are $3000+ for the set so way outside my budget. Really excited to try these one's out Roger designed. Everything he's recommended has been AWESOME.
I'm not familiar with momo?
Last edited by weinerschizel; 08-02-2022 at 11:57 PM.
Oh SUPER cool. I was browsing the catalog at Summit Racing... Then thought I'd ask Roger about what he recommended for rocker arms. He told me about those. I don't think they're much more superior to what I could find in the summit racing catalog. Manton has a killer design which supplies oil to the rollers through machined galleys in the rocker arm. However, Trevor at Manton said those are $3000+ for the set so way outside my budget. Really excited to try these one's out Roger designed. Everything he's recommended has been AWESOME.
I'm not familiar with momo?
Its Mamo. Tony Mamo. Check out Mamo Motorsports online. Tony is one of the best airflow engineers in the nation, and I know quite a few of them. He also designs and sells many other parts to make your engine perform better, including rocker arms, clutches, etc. Many guys here make enormous N/A power with Tonys components.
Ah yes okay gotchya. I know who you are speaking of now
I'm trying to get into rhythm of measuring zero lash on all my valves again. It's WAY easier with that MS Racing components tool. However, a BEAR to get the valves at ends of the cylinders (especially closets to firewall) with engine in the truck.
Quick question, anybody got the preload specs for the 2116 LSR Johnson Lifters?
I contacted Johnson Lifters support when I built the engine and don't recall what they told me. I cannot get through now, via email at least.
I know he said the tolerance for steel block is looser than for aluminum. Some webpages report 0.030" +/- 0.005"
For some reason my spread sheet / notes say 0.035" +/- 0.010"
Ah yes okay gotchya. I know who you are speaking of now
I'm trying to get into rhythm of measuring zero lash on all my valves again. It's WAY easier with that MS Racing components tool. However, a BEAR to get the valves at ends of the cylinders (especially closets to firewall) with engine in the truck.
Quick question, anybody got the preload specs for the 2116 LSR Johnson Lifters?
I contacted Johnson Lifters support when I built the engine and don't recall what they told me. I cannot get through now, via email at least.
I know he said the tolerance for steel block is looser than for aluminum. Some webpages report 0.030" +/- 0.005"
For some reason my spread sheet / notes say 0.035" +/- 0.010"
Can anybody clarify.
I believe it's the second one.
Sorry I didn't specify Tony specifically.
The upside to the 10mm version is more support. The down side is the heads should be off to drill and tap to 10mm
I have a confession... I wish I had a copy of the instructions but I got the lifters from another engine builder. They put them in a motor and pulled them out to use something else.
I have a confession... I wish I had a copy of the instructions but I got the lifters from another engine builder. They put them in a motor and pulled them out to use something else.
they don't come with instructions. There us a tag on the outside of the box. I still have my box but it's not at the house.
Very helpful thanks! I owe you a BEER I really wish Johnson had a support section with preload specs / installation info on their website. You're a lifesaver.
Couple questions...
Nicked valve stem I noticed cylinder one intake valve has a VERY small nick on it. The tip of the rocker from that valve has a wear mark from that nick. I'm not sure if it's a big deal? I leave it be? Or if I could polish / deburr the nick a bit. I can see it clear as day by eye, BARELY perceive it by touch, however, clearly it affected the wear pattern on tip of rocker from that valve. Picture at bottom of post.
Both valves on heal of cam I don't do this often enough to be confident I know camshaft is on heal for intake & exhaust on a cylinder. It's easiest to take these rockers on and off w/ both closed and take zero lash. Was using a endoscope to find TDC but crushed it in the cylinder and it broke. I'm a bit nervous as there's possibly a little piece of Chinese plastic lens in one of the cylinders. That aside, how do I make 100% sure I'm on heal of cam for both valves on a cylinder? Currently I used EOIC method then turn the crank until I can see neither of the pushrods moving on the cylinder.
Rockers look dead sexy! Would be cool if they made transparent valve covers, sad they will be covered up when I'm done. Have completed measuring zero lash on ALL valves but will measure everything AGAIN... as they say measure twice cut once. Unfortunately, I will have to order all new custom pushrods.
Last edited by weinerschizel; 08-06-2022 at 08:11 PM.
If the valves were reconditioned they may have nicked it with the grinder.
As for getting the new one correct, you need to check the wipe through out the stroke. Ideally you would use a checker spring. Let me see if i can dig up a picture
The idea is to get as close to the center line as possible. If you are too far off to 1 side, you will side load the valve even with a roller tip. That would prematurely wear the guide and the valve. The worst case, a failure would occur and you would be really sorry...
I want to make 100000% for sure I'm on the heal when I measure zero lash for second time to double check. This is a super novice question but I honestly, know virtually nothing about engine timing. Is there a chart or pattern or something I can get that shows if one valve is open then I'm on heal of cam for BOTH valves on another piston? Or can I just go to top of intake valve lobe... then turn crank 360 degrees to get to heal for both valves on that cylinder?
Thanks for the help...
Other notes:
Valve ends reconditioned - I'm not 100% sure if they did that or not at the machine shop. I do know I checked if they were all the same height and they were. Do you think would hurt to carefully deburr that nick? or should I just leave it be?
Valve Checking Springs - I don't have any. I put lithium grease on the valve stem after I finish up and install the rocker (granted preload isn't right but hopefully good enough). I spin the motor to check the other valves then will go back and look at the tip whip pattern. Hopefully I don't need the checking springs? I hate to take the springs off to swipe them in. It's a PITA.
Rocker to valve cover strike - I think this is happening... I put lithium grease all over that baffle you mentioned however, couldn't get it to rub. That said the driver side valve cover will not install. I cannot figure out where it's striking (or what I'm doing wrong). I'm simply putting there w/o the gasket so I can check fitment. I may need to put the gasket on. Still trying to figure that side out. Other side goes right on w/o issue.
Maybe I can just put my finger over the spark plug to see if pressure is building as I turn the crank? Not sure how I'll get to rear cylinders. I've been watching YouTube here, nobody seems to have a complete video to explain engine events.
I'm on my second round of measuring zero lash. My measurements aren't repeating.
I get within 0.001" when measuring the pushrods again so I know my technique with the caliper is good...
However, I'm getting as much as 0.047" variance in Zero Lash measurements. I'm really not sure what I'm doing wrong. My guess is I'm not on the heel of the cam. Currently (since I broke my borescope) I'm putting my finger over spark plug hole to make sure I'm on compression stroke.
Also some of my measurements would lead me to believe I have negative preload (no preload) on some lifters. However, I cannot wiggle the pushrod or rocker once it's all back together and and I believe I'm at base circle.
I got it all figured out. It takes me a hour or two per cylinder to measure zero lash but have a process... Spin crank clockwise until intake valve closes. Go another 1/8th crank turn or so check valve lash. Repeat if I get the same measurement then I'm good. If I don't I spin the crank a bit more clockwise until I start getting repeatable (maximum) measurements. I throw out the minimum measurements. A TON of work but I'm confident of my results.
08-02-2022, 11:05 PM
