Valve Spring Change with engine in car.
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Valve Spring Change with engine in car. I doubt I will change the valve springs, but the thought crossed my mind since I'm opening up the valve cover and changing gaskets. My question is, is there any darn room to do that in the 4th gen f bodies? It looks like I'm going to be screaming and swearing doing the last 2 springs on each side.
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Originally Posted by 2001ws6ft
I changed my spark plugs last year. 7 weren't so bad............the last one was three times as bad as the 7 combined.
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The 6 & 8 have always been a PITA because of the A/C but removing the coil packs makes the job easy. Haven't had to change out springs yet but that day is rapidly approaching..
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Unless you have skinny arms, getting #8 out from the bottom is like a Saw movie. I had better luck kneeling on top of the engine bay and pushing my arm down the fire wall and using a small ratchet. Fun!
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Tips for changing springs in the car: Give yourself plenty of time, don't be in a rush. Spend the money and get a nice dual spring compressor. Get a pen magnet to help capture the locks. Use assembly lube to help keep the locks adheared to the valve while the spring is compressed.
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From: Massachusetts
Tips for changing springs in the car: Give yourself plenty of time, don't be in a rush. Spend the money and get a nice dual spring compressor. Get a pen magnet to help capture the locks. Use assembly lube to help keep the locks adheared to the valve while the spring is compressed.
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This is the one I used: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LS-Valve-Sp...X/254327903900
I installed 400lb @.600 lift springs and the compressor had no issues with these at all. It is all steel and well made. Bluegrass occasionally has things on sale too.
Last edited by Rich-L79; Apr 8, 2021 at 08:20 AM.
I used a dual spring compressor with engine in the car. Back 4 springs werent too bad. Was harder to get the air compressor tool in the dam plug hole than anything else. Getting at the locks was a tad harder. Just use a pen magnet to get them in/out and put some assembly lube on them before reinstalling on the valve so they stay in place. Youll be golden!
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I used a dual spring compressor with engine in the car. Back 4 springs werent too bad. Was harder to get the air compressor tool in the dam plug hole than anything else. Getting at the locks was a tad harder. Just use a pen magnet to get them in/out and put some assembly lube on them before reinstalling on the valve so they stay in place. Youll be golden!
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I think that compressed air is a waste of time on these engines I changed springs on an engine on the stand the other day and I just make sure the piston is up close to top dead center to catch the valves when they fall down no biggie it's not going to hurt the piston or the valve to let them touch each other while the engine isn't running
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If you want a little more safety and something soft for the valves to push against, bring the piston up halfway, then feed a bit of cotton rope into the spark plug hole and bring the piston to the top. Then when you are pushing against the valve to get the locks loose the valve is pushing against something soft yet firm.
Last edited by Rich-L79; Apr 9, 2021 at 10:30 PM.
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For an LS1 with 241 cylinder heads it is separate so when you go to purchase the FELPRO valve stem seal kit your only going to get the valve seals. When you pull the valve spring and remove the valve stem seal you can then remove the seat the valve spring sits on. When replacing the valve stem seals the black ones are for intake and brown ones for the exhaust.
Last edited by 01CamaroSSTx; Apr 9, 2021 at 07:11 PM.