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Old 05-23-2021, 10:28 PM
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Depends on your definition of reliable. The real question is how long a time period you are talking about? 50 quarter mile passes? 5 years of street and track?
Old 05-24-2021, 10:27 AM
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Im pretty sure the C5 engineers wanted an 8k tach in the first LS1 powered vette but of course they didn't get it. I'm going 7500 in my cam only lq9 powered 4th gen Z with just Summit Racing ls6 springs, BTR pushrods, and the new comp cams low shock Drift cam, I don't know how much cheaper you can get than that for a cheap high RPM long block, well accept for the fact that I just had to be rebuild my poor old 4L60e but it was probably already hurt from grenading my old rearend, however those transmissions usually need a little more help to rev so high and make shifts anyways lol
Old 05-24-2021, 11:56 AM
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Have you had the car on the dyno to see what your power curve looks like and if there would even be any benefit to winding out to 7500?
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Old 05-24-2021, 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by MuhThugga
Have you had the car on the dyno to see what your power curve looks like and if there would even be any benefit to winding out to 7500?
it's a centrifugal blower car. Max rpm is max boost. It'll keep making power as long as the valve train is stable and the blower can handle the cfms.
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Old 05-24-2021, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by MuhThugga
Have you had the car on the dyno to see what your power curve looks like and if there would even be any benefit to winding out to 7500?
Havent been on a dyno. I currently shift at about 7000 rpm and seat of the pants says it’s still making power. 232/248 cam in a 377 with a Procharger and I will be putting a BTR equalizer intake on it soon. Still has stock 241 heads on it. I was thinking in the future I’d like better heads and at that time possibly going with better lifters and what ever else was needed to spin a little higher to take advantage of the combos max potential.

Valve train currently is: ws6store max effort rockers, 11/32 .120 wall summit pushrods, ls7 lifters, btr .660 lift springs, and custom cam motion cam.
Old 05-24-2021, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by QwkTrip
I don't have a wealth of experience so I have to rely on the experience of others. Johnson supported GM racing teams so they naturally have a leg up with knowledge of GM development test standards and some advanced engineering resources. In other words, there's some deep knowledge there. When the LS7 lifter wasn't good enough, GM created the Cadillac Racing lifter. When the Cadillac Racing lifter wasn't good enough, GM worked with Johnson. And the Johnson short-travel lifter exceeded every durability test that the Caddy lifter didn't pass. I would think any of the Johnson lifters are a safe buy for a fun street car. And they have an axle oiling version for setups that generate heavier loads on the lifter. Call 'em up and they'll help you choose. And Manton probably has the most experience making pushrods for use with Johnson lifters. Those two companies work well together and make good stuff.

Personally, I'm not buying Morel, I just know my buddy has had success with it. Morel is trying to play the low-cost and high-end market at the same time and their low cost stuff is junk. I've seen it again and again in my work experience how the low-cost ideas eventually bleeds over into the high-end product and I don't know where Morel draws the line. Johnson only has good stuff and I can buy with confidence.

I used LS7 lifters back in 2011 and it worked fine for some short revs to 7K rpm with the gentle lobes of a Cammotion cam. But I'm too scared to use new GM lifters now. Seems in the last few years I've seen a lot of stories of GM lifter failures (axle failures, rotating in the bore, seizing to the bore). I'm not sure the GM lifters are as good as they used to be. Have you guys been seeing the same thing?
Personally I like the Johnson 2126 short travel. Not for reliability as much as just the short travel aspect. Closer to a solid. For most people the 2110 Johnson is a tremendous upgrade and a reasonable price for what you get.

If it matters, Johnson makes some of Isky branded hydraulic lifters.
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Old 05-25-2021, 06:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Personally I like the Johnson 2126 short travel. Not for reliability as much as just the short travel aspect. Closer to a solid. For most people the 2110 Johnson is a tremendous upgrade and a reasonable price for what you get.

If it matters, Johnson makes some of Isky branded hydraulic lifters.
Sounds like when ever I do heads if I go with some good Johnson link bar lifters and correct length pushrods I’ll be good to go with the rest of my setup.

Like these:
https://www.johnsonlifters.com/Produ...s/2116LSR.aspx
Old 05-25-2021, 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
Sounds like when ever I do heads if I go with some good Johnson link bar lifters and correct length pushrods I’ll be good to go with the rest of my setup.

Like these:
https://www.johnsonlifters.com/Produ...s/2116LSR.aspx
That is a fantastic lifter. The lifter cup is low, so don't be surprised if your pushrods end up about .300 longer than you expect. However, the way those things are made, it's almost impossible to miss the lifter cup. Great choice!
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Old 05-25-2021, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
Sounds like when ever I do heads if I go with some good Johnson link bar lifters and correct length pushrods I’ll be good to go with the rest of my setup.

Like these:
https://www.johnsonlifters.com/Produ...s/2116LSR.aspx
I have these in my car, they're great. I emailed Johnson about them because I'm thinking about changing to a bigger cam abs revving to about 7500 rpm, they told me that they're good for 185 lbs seat pressure, 530 lbs open pressure, and more than 8000 RPM.

As Darth said, you will need a little bit longer pushrod with these.
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Old 05-25-2021, 10:14 AM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
What is the cheapest valve train setup you trust to reliably turn 7500+ rpm. Not at a constant like a circle track car or something, but a street/strip type application.

Assuming the obvious like cam, heads, intake manifold to actually make power at those rpms. Personally I am and will continue to be procharged so that certainly helps with making power at high rpm due to the nature of the centrifugal. Mostly focused upon valve train requirements.
The best setup out there that I know of is our Low Lash Solid Roller. We can also do it with a hydraulic roller no problem with sensible lobes, rigid valve train and stock rocker arms, but the Low Lash Solid Roller (LLR) is just superior above 7000 RPM.
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Old 05-25-2021, 10:50 AM
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Wonder why more of the SBE record guys don't do LLSR, they spin well north of 8200RPM. Price? Wonder what the gains would be on a 8000RPM, 1250whp setup currently running a Summit cam. Guessing it would cost more than the whole engine combo to switch it all out for a few hp.
Old 05-25-2021, 11:16 AM
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This thread needs an idle clip amongst the ego stroking. Cam motion custom centrifugal supercharger combo.

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Old 05-25-2021, 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Personally I like the Johnson 2126 short travel. Not for reliability as much as just the short travel aspect. Closer to a solid. For most people the 2110 Johnson is a tremendous upgrade and a reasonable price for what you get.

If it matters, Johnson makes some of Isky branded hydraulic lifters.
Yup, their HPx lifters are made by Johnson.
Old 05-25-2021, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
it's a centrifugal blower car. Max rpm is max boost. It'll keep making power as long as the valve train is stable and the blower can handle the cfms.
Missed the whole blower part.
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Old 05-25-2021, 05:10 PM
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The valve springs and oil pressure are the most important for reliability at 7,500+ rpm. What else you need will depend on your choice of camshaft.
Too soft of a valve spring, you float the valves and lose power. Too stiff and the valvetrain deflects and you lose power or break something.

Reliable hydraulic lifters: Johnson 2110 lifters, 2116LSR if you want to get rid of lifter trays, 2126LSR for axle oiling and link bars.
Short travel versions of the Johnson lifters will require custom order pushrods. Just go LLSR instead of short travel, its more reliable and easier to adjust. It would probably cost the same if you don't include the camshaft.
I don't recommend stock lifters but they are reliable up to 7,200 rpm with high oil pressure.

Most setups only need a 5/16 diameter pushrod to be reliable. Even stock pushrods with a mild cam will rev to 8,000rpm without breaking...not that I found any power up there but it was cool to try.
Pushrod size (diameter/thickness/shape) depends on valvetrain deflection.....ie: cam lift, seat pressure

OEM GM stock rockers are very light and reliable at any rpm. The needle bearings they come with are not that bad when they are brand new. The CHE trunnion upgrade kit for stock rockers is good for 7,500+ rpm.
I have been reusing the same set of ~200k mile stock rockers with a CHE kit on multiple engines.

BTR sells a rocker shaft kit which was designed to get rid of deflection (Instead of a trunnion kit). I have this kit but haven't had chance to use it so I couldn't tell you how well it works.


You may pick up more power at 7k rpm+ running better components but stock stuff will rev to 7,500 rpm without breaking. Oil pressure and gearing is more important at that stage.....
Here's an example on a 5.3 that I shift at 7000-7,500 rpm all the time.

4150 TB, single plane EFI intake
Cam Motion Camshaft; 226/234 112+4, 0.600/0.600 lift
Double Valve Springs 0.660" lift
5/16 push rods, 7.400
CHE trunnion kit on stock rockers
~10.7 compression ratio
stock bearings, stock rod bolts, stock flat top pistons, stock lifters, stock head bolts, stock 862 heads, 0.039 headgasket,
stock cylinder bores, out of round and PTW gap is over 0.0030
original stock rods and crank, complete with scratches and and some runout


I went to 7,300+rpm on this awd dyno. My redline is open.

Last edited by Sway Tale; 05-25-2021 at 05:40 PM.
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Old 05-25-2021, 05:54 PM
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Sway Tale, is that a naturally aspirated engine? What intake? My cam is similar sized and peaked at 6300 with a DLS2 intake.
Old 05-25-2021, 06:11 PM
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Wilson 4150 with a 14" drop base round air cleaner and edelbrock vic jr. Nothing ported.
Yea its naturally aspirated. It also peaked around 6,300 ish but it only lost 14hp at 7k.
This is all through a subaru awd manual (3 differentials)

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Old 05-25-2021, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by ddnspider
it's a centrifugal blower car. Max rpm is max boost. It'll keep making power as long as the valve train is stable and the blower can handle the cfms.
Originally Posted by MuhThugga
Missed the whole blower part.
I can report that the D1x is rated at 1075 hp with a max impeller speed of 62,000. I'm spinning it to 64,000 impeller speed and it doesn't stop making boost seeing 20 psi peak at 7000 rpm. I'm running 1 3/4 headers with a 2.5" magnaflow catback and the stock 241 heads so there is still some power to be made with this blower before going bigger. Impressive little blower.
Old 05-25-2021, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by BCNUL8R
I can report that the D1x is rated at 1075 hp with a max impeller speed of 62,000. I'm spinning it to 64,000 impeller speed and it doesn't stop making boost seeing 20 psi peak at 7000 rpm. I'm running 1 3/4 headers with a 2.5" magnaflow catback and the stock 241 heads so there is still some power to be made with this blower before going bigger. Impressive little blower.
I have to wonder what you have to gain by upgrading the exhaust, especially if you plan to up the power. 1 3/4 headers and a 2.5" exhaust has got to be choking it.
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Old 05-25-2021, 10:17 PM
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I mentioned above that I have this new stick in my j/y LQ9 with new summit ls6 springs and timing chain, as well as Btr 7.450" pushrods, typical ls6 intake and 1-3/4" pacesetters, I won't have any Dyno #s for a while but I'll take it to the track soon. I'm hopeful with my new 245mm 3800 stall converter, built 4L60e, 4.10's and 26" Hoosiers I'll be competitive with some of the more expensive combos mentioned above running more lift, short travel lifters, ect. Seriously all they recommend for 7500rpm is a new chain! Obviously mine won't need to go that high for now but maybe someday with the right intake and bigger headers it will!


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