7500 RPM reliably
#1
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What is the cheapest valve train setup you trust to reliably turn 7500+ rpm. Not at a constant like a circle track car or something, but a street/strip type application.
Assuming the obvious like cam, heads, intake manifold to actually make power at those rpms. Personally I am and will continue to be procharged so that certainly helps with making power at high rpm due to the nature of the centrifugal. Mostly focused upon valve train requirements.
Assuming the obvious like cam, heads, intake manifold to actually make power at those rpms. Personally I am and will continue to be procharged so that certainly helps with making power at high rpm due to the nature of the centrifugal. Mostly focused upon valve train requirements.
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G Atsma (05-20-2021)
#3
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JESEL, Crower and T&D shaft mounted setups.
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G Atsma (05-20-2021)
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BCNUL8R (05-21-2021)
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Thanks guys. Current cam is 232/248 116 LSA with a 112 center line. Lifters are ls7 with 0.080 preload. Pushrods are summit 11/32 .120 wall. Rockers are max effort ws6store.
I shift at 7-7200 currently with 241 heads, ls6 intake, and stock throttle body. I want to shift just before 7000 and at the track it does around 6900, but with tire spin on the street it varies between 7-7200 with ET street R’s. Seat of the pants says it’s still making power.
Recently broke the ls6 intake and ordered the BTR equalizer. This got me thinking that long term I want better heads and more RPm to take better advantage of the intake.
So better heads and better lifters might be all that is needed for 7500 rpm reliably? Adjustable rockers would be nice for the narrow window on some of the lifters out there, but pricey also.
I shift at 7-7200 currently with 241 heads, ls6 intake, and stock throttle body. I want to shift just before 7000 and at the track it does around 6900, but with tire spin on the street it varies between 7-7200 with ET street R’s. Seat of the pants says it’s still making power.
Recently broke the ls6 intake and ordered the BTR equalizer. This got me thinking that long term I want better heads and more RPm to take better advantage of the intake.
So better heads and better lifters might be all that is needed for 7500 rpm reliably? Adjustable rockers would be nice for the narrow window on some of the lifters out there, but pricey also.
#7
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Pretty much every LS I've done revs to 7500 or higher with stock heads, stock rockers (sometimes a trunion upgrade), whoever's cheapest brand 5/16 pushrods, whatever springs are on sale, and amazon LS7 lifters. Works perfectly fine!
Just did a dyno of the BTR manifold and it picked up some tq over the Holley sniper unit, was still making power at 7500.
Just did a dyno of the BTR manifold and it picked up some tq over the Holley sniper unit, was still making power at 7500.
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You’ll get many different opinions so regardless of your choice of parts properly setting up your valvetrain is one of the most crucial and overlooked things for high rpms. Proper pushrod length, lifter preload, etc. go a long way for longevity.
#10
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Valvetrain stability and high RPM? I gave you mine.
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I don’t have to do this right away and I did take note of your opinion.
once I get the intake I’m going to enjoy it a bit and make sure the tune is dialed. The only change is the ls6 intake to BTR. I street tune, but I’m curious how an intake that provides better balanced cylinder air distribution while giving up low end for high rpm power actually effects my tune. I’m sure it will be subtle changes. I also took timing out as I come into boost in the 3000-5200 range to help with traction. I may be able to put some of that back to improve the areas the BTR sacrifices down low.
Once I’m happy and everything is good I’m going to add a small nozzle of meth injection after the intercooler. Also already running 50 percent ethanol.
What I wanted to achieve with this thread was too see what the minimum requirements were to reliably spin 7500 plus definitely not over 8000 though. I also knew I’d get some opinions from people that trust nothing but the best which is probably more spendy than I care for. So I’ll probably end up somewhere in the middle.
once I get the intake I’m going to enjoy it a bit and make sure the tune is dialed. The only change is the ls6 intake to BTR. I street tune, but I’m curious how an intake that provides better balanced cylinder air distribution while giving up low end for high rpm power actually effects my tune. I’m sure it will be subtle changes. I also took timing out as I come into boost in the 3000-5200 range to help with traction. I may be able to put some of that back to improve the areas the BTR sacrifices down low.
Once I’m happy and everything is good I’m going to add a small nozzle of meth injection after the intercooler. Also already running 50 percent ethanol.
What I wanted to achieve with this thread was too see what the minimum requirements were to reliably spin 7500 plus definitely not over 8000 though. I also knew I’d get some opinions from people that trust nothing but the best which is probably more spendy than I care for. So I’ll probably end up somewhere in the middle.
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00pooterSS (05-26-2021)
#14
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I don’t have to do this right away and I did take note of your opinion.
once I get the intake I’m going to enjoy it a bit and make sure the tune is dialed. The only change is the ls6 intake to BTR. I street tune, but I’m curious how an intake that provides better balanced cylinder air distribution while giving up low end for high rpm power actually effects my tune. I’m sure it will be subtle changes. I also took timing out as I come into boost in the 3000-5200 range to help with traction. I may be able to put some of that back to improve the areas the BTR sacrifices down low.
Once I’m happy and everything is good I’m going to add a small nozzle of meth injection after the intercooler. Also already running 50 percent ethanol.
What I wanted to achieve with this thread was too see what the minimum requirements were to reliably spin 7500 plus definitely not over 8000 though. I also knew I’d get some opinions from people that trust nothing but the best which is probably more spendy than I care for. So I’ll probably end up somewhere in the middle.
once I get the intake I’m going to enjoy it a bit and make sure the tune is dialed. The only change is the ls6 intake to BTR. I street tune, but I’m curious how an intake that provides better balanced cylinder air distribution while giving up low end for high rpm power actually effects my tune. I’m sure it will be subtle changes. I also took timing out as I come into boost in the 3000-5200 range to help with traction. I may be able to put some of that back to improve the areas the BTR sacrifices down low.
Once I’m happy and everything is good I’m going to add a small nozzle of meth injection after the intercooler. Also already running 50 percent ethanol.
What I wanted to achieve with this thread was too see what the minimum requirements were to reliably spin 7500 plus definitely not over 8000 though. I also knew I’d get some opinions from people that trust nothing but the best which is probably more spendy than I care for. So I’ll probably end up somewhere in the middle.
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BCNUL8R (05-21-2021)
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I have pedestal mount T&D adjustable full rollers held into place by 10mm bolts in the 01 and I'm not sure if I'd run them with a solid setup spinning that high and I certainly know how to find out but don't want to. I find myself in the middle with parts as I went for the dragonslayer crank but only Compstar rods when I know that's one place you don't go cheap. Now I'm not making 1000fwhp and I don't have a bottle on it yet either but if I'm turbocharging I'm thinking new connecting rods. I love NA but I'd be lying if I didn't envy those out there running with forced induction.
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#18
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I mean no disrespect and I'm not speaking as someone who has been there and done that or who knows all there is to know about engines. So you have a buddy that can turn his motor to 8+ on a hydraulic roller with non adjustable rockers well good for him. Most people want to build cars because they love racing and in the end it really depends on what YOU want out of the valvetrain and how much YOUR willing to spend on a reliable valvetrain suited for the application. If there wasn't better alternatives to stock parts then we wouldn't have a flooded market with better engine components now would we? I'd like to run solid setups on both of my cars but right now it's hydraulics and pedestal mounted rocker arms that won't see past 7 as we all know that going fast isn't cheap and it's even more expensive when you break it.
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Last edited by tblentrprz; 05-22-2021 at 09:39 PM.