I just double checked that and you sir are correct. It was the 317 that had the 71.5cc chambers.

 

Some of you guys suggested reaching out to Smallwood development. I did Martin suggested ( 234/242 .620/.603 111+2 ) seems like a lot of duration, and maybe not a lot of driveability. What are your guys thoughts? I am not questioning that he is a smart guy and great cam builder, I am just wondering how that would drive?

 

That's a lot of cam. You will know it has a cam for sure.

 

If you explained to him what you have and what your looking for then he's going to give you his recommendation. I have one of his spec'd cams in my LSX and wanted an aggressive cam that still had street manners. I'll admit that it's not fun sitting in traffic with a car that just wants to go but I've been pleased with it. My spec's for the LSX are 243/251 .661/.633 115+4 and for the LS370 my Pat G cam is a 238/246 .633/.633 111+3.

 

That's my concern, seems like more of a max effort camshaft, maybe I am wrong?

Hot Rod Power tour is one Giant Traffic Jam , Last thing I want is a car less drivable. I am sure that I can make great power with that camshaft, but the cars purpose is to drive hot rod power tour and make good power and be drivable.

 

With a good tune it will be drivable with an automatic trans and 3200 or larger stall converter. I can't say how it would do with a manual trans.

 

Lol the magical *Btr stage 4* cam with someone else name on it lmao

 

Is that what the camshaft is?

 

Specs are basically identical lol

234/248 .630"/.615" 111.5

 

All those stage cams have similar specs. The only cams with oddball specs seems to be a couple of the Tick cams.

 

So update, I talked with Donald yesterday at Total Engine Airflow (TEA), I sent the 243 Heads in to have TEA stage 2 LS6 CNC port program done on them, along with milling them down to 62-63cc. According to Donald once received its about a 3 week turnaround time (I'm in no rush). Also, If you haven't shipped anything in the 52lb range lately its got quite expensive. Actually took the time to drive to Fedex ($114), UPS ($125) and USPS ($97) which I ended up using.

I called Martin Smallwood later that evening and went over the combination that I will be running again along with the cylinder heads and milling, he said the original cam spec'ed would have PTV clearance issues and would not work ( 234/242 .620/.603 111+2 ). So he sent over a revised size later in the night with lower duration and lift ( 230/236 .612/.595 112+2 ). Wanted to get some thoughts on it. Split looks good, I was hoping to have a little more lift but wanted to get some opinions.

 

the cam looks great for a daily driver. Also reving your engine with a high lift cam will end up in the long run detrimental to your valve train. I mean unless money is no optiong having a cam that will let your valve train last 50-80K miles and make power that's money to me.

 

Been there and done that, and have zero interest in doing that again! Many moons ago I had a camshaft custom spec'ed that was similar but larger than the MS4 and it was a valvetrain nightmare! I am 100% over that phase in life!

 

I was thinking of doing the same yet again in a 427 block but realistically I don't have the time or really the want anymore. A nice 6.L that you make majority of your power down low is in my opinion the best bang for the buck. Good luck with your new build and enjoy. 🤘🏽

 

Too much lift can cause some valve stem wear issues. The lift looks good to me.

 

Update, Just got off the phone with Mike at WS6 Store, we have been emailing and talking on the phone back and forth the past few days. What a good guy, and proud to support our LS1Tech sponsors! Very easy to talk with, professional, and even called vendors to find out specific information on my exhaust setup and how piping would work.

Ordered from Mike @ WS6 Store
ARH 1 7/8's headers
OR-Y pipe
Melling 10295 oil pump
RPM Timing Set
2 x RPM speed head bolts

Also, Got off the Phone with Martin Smallwood @ Smallwood Racing Development and order the camshaft ( 230/236 .612/.595 112+2 )

I appreciate everyone's input, feedback, and great discussions on camshafts, drivability, and valve train happiness. Exactly what I love about this forum, true enthusiast that are car guys through and through.

Will keep everyone updated with progress, where is everyone uploading their photos to these days to be able to share them, photobucket use to be the thing, but now they are wanting to charge money didn't know if there was another site or not?

 

If you switch to an x pipe with a true dual setup you'll make 15-30 more rwhp. Just FYI. Y pipes murder power.

 

I appreciate the heads up on this, I might call Mike back and see if I can switch the ORY pipe to a true duals setup, I really like the Borla thats on the car, but power is power and would be nice to just knock it all out at once.

Do they make a x pipe setup that works off of the ARH headers, or are they all kind of generic ? What x pipe would you recommend, and how is the fitting going through the trans crossmember area, my car sits low and just want to make sure it tucks up as well as it can?

 

Id sell those expensive over priced ARH and get a set of Speed E headers and true duals for less than just those headers lol 😆

You have to get a crossmember for the duals. They're like $180 from umi.

 

Just googled arh fbody heads. oh my lanta. You paid $1200 for headers??