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Why are LS carb intakes and ignitions so expensive??

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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 06:54 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
That all depends on the climate you live in, A summer tune will be to lean in the winter in many places.
When I raced dirt cars and ran methanol you might go up or down a jet weekly.
We always jetted our carbs weekly, due to temps and humidity. Asphalt Late Models. Track gas was Sunoco 110. Never once did we go to the track having left the carb alone.
Same thing as EFI. Guys have their laptops out after every pass reading data and moving tables around. All in the name of chasing every last hp.
A speed density EFI tune will need messed with from winter to summer. It’s all relative. Fuel delivery is fuel delivery.
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 08:12 AM
  #42  
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Once you get it dialed in perfect you shouldn't have to touch it from there unless you go to the mountains. Which most don't travel anyway. You jet for MPH. Once its there. I don't care what the weather is doing your only talking a couple thousandths either way and that doesn't matter to us. Just crank up the juice more if needed or get on the second kit. We have a dominator and I have never seen the motor have to turn over more than 2 revolutions to start. Then will sit and idle as soon as it starts. We can get on and off the brake multiple times if needed with no problem if someone is playing staging games. The throttle response is crazy fast too. Every bit as fast as injection.

Like I have said many times. Go to the track and see for yourself. When it comes to tuning. You will never have any form of fuel delivery set up right, until you do.

I watch guys pulling their hair out trying to get there tune right with FI. If its so great, why if you go to ten different shops you will get ten different tunes. None exact, and some way off. Most of these shops have tunes logged for different HP levels and thats all they do. No special tuning for your particular motor. Throw in a tune, check the AFR's and call it good. Most tune on a dyno which that tune is usually way off when you get out in the real world. Hell our carb needed 4 jet sizes larger to get max MPH from the dyno to the track. Plus there is so much extra **** to go wrong and does a lot.

Your plugs will tell you everything. All the way from start up to WOT. Around here you hardly here anyone talking about plugs. Its obvious why.

Don't get me wrong. I like FI on stock vehicles. On performance stuff my preference is a carb. But that's me. So I guess the bottom line is, do whatever makes you happy. They both work good if they are tuned right. No one should get dogged out for doing it either way. Best of Luck to everyone.
Oh yeah. One last thing. Go To The track. You all will learn a lot. I guarantee it if your not a dick that knows it all. I'm Out.
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 09:49 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Launch
If i had the patience to tune a carb myself, i'd run one. The only thing really better about efi is you can keep tuning with the laptop until you get the car driving and performing how you want it.
You can do the same with a carb, just requires getting your hands dirty
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Old Oct 18, 2021 | 01:47 PM
  #44  
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Default Fuel Droplet Size

The injector location high/low effects "tauf" fuel AND the brand/type of fuel injector affects Droplet Size with Seimens in the lead of non-GDI.

The A/V in a Carbuater WILL make SMALLER fuel droplets than a port injector this is great for combustion.

Then consider the "timing" of the fuel injector pulse which should occur at high port airflow.

There is one answere, Torque Requirement.
This is stated by runner length, easy with a EFI, harder with a "carb" intake for a manifold to be designed for midrange torque.
The type of operation, racing, towing, D/D, Racing Rules such a GN West may be the best way to decide.
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