I'm sure you guys noticed that it's a "fits all" cam. It likely does meet the advertised number in a 6.0, certainly won't in an engine 72 cubes smaller.
No wonder the power was skewed to the higher rpm. So in that respect it does make Tick's ad somewhat misleading. I didn't see in the add that it was 4.8, 5.3 specific.

Long tube headers may help. Would need to be really nice ones for use in a truck, especially when towing. The drawback though could be the O2 sensors not working quite right at low rpm. So I would tend to suggest headers with a good thermal barrier coating. It helps. Also, new GM NTK sensors would not be a bad idea. They aren't huge dollars.

I'm in Portland. I know the shop and I know the owner who did the tune personally. I'm technically a competitor, although I no longer tune professionally. And when I did, we tuned mostly Dodges. I have however fixed a few of his tunes for driveability.

As Kawabuggy said, would be nice to see the AFR during that run. Would be better yet to see the data log. Although not sure if Tom relies on the dyno WB, or actually screws one into the exhaust.
The tune would be nice to look at, and Tom will give it to you. I doubt there will be any "Ah-Ha!" revelations though. Data log tells the story.

So, other than the crappy idle, does the truck "feel" any better power wise?

Ron

 

Tune and headers, especially with that 111 degree LSA.

Everyone and their brother makes a 220-odd duration LS "Street" cam, because they work, but if you want your cam to look like its the greatest thing ever just put the headers on before you do the baseline dyno pulls. That's how you get 50hp gain with a "cam swap", the engine had headers already.

 

This thread is headed towards epicness...

 

He has the Tow Max Stage 2, 114 lobe sep

 

Thanks Ron, I appreciate your constructive input. The cam is the TowMax Stage 2, here: https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...4-lq9-engines/ It’s specific for 4.8 and 5.3. I had an incorrect link further down in my original post, but I’ve gone back and fixed that link.

Since you’re located in Portland area, any tuner recommendations for a second opinion?

Thanks much

 

It's also "specific" for the LS2, LQ4, and LQ9 which are all 6.0L with cathedral port cylinder heads. In other words, the description is really applies generically. Not only will the same cam in a smaller displacement deliver less gains, but it'll behave like larger cam in terms of effects on driveability and shifts the power curve towards higher rpm with loss at lower rpm.

 

If your tuner can't get that cam to idle run. I have a 222/226 cam in my 5.3 and i tuned it. It idles perfect and i can lug it down to 1200 rpms in 5 gear(5 speed manual) with no bucking. With you setup the cam should have been smaller but it still should idle and run good. Headers would be your best mod now but if you don't want to do that i understand. You need a better tuner to fix your idle and drivability. Any tuner can tune WOT very east to do. The great tuners dial in the drivability. I learned back in 06 when a had a company(they are no longer in business) and install a big cam in my 05 gto. The car was basically undrivable under 3000 rpms. I had them put the stock cam back in and ended up selling the car. That is why i decided to learn to tune on my next vehicle.

 

This reminds me so much of idiots back in the 80's and 90s. They would base their hp on what part manufacturers said they're parts would make. Like a cam (the old 292/501) would make 60+, headers 50, intake 40, heads 100. Then they come to believe their 250hp worn out 350 chevy was making 500+hp

 

Ricer math!

 

I've attached my tune. I can't get the file to open (presumably I'd need HP Tuners software?), so I have no idea what it looks like. But I'm definitely interested to hear your constructive input on how the tune could be improved. At this point, in addition to solving the idle surging, I'd just like to see and feel some better torque and grunt from off-idle up to 3500-4k (that's what I was after all along and I was clear with Tick about that). I don't know if tune refinements can do much to accomplish that. But, since I am where I am, it doesn't hurt to try. Thanks much.

 

Can’t send you a PM. Site won’t let me. Maybe you have a wait period? So maybe you can figure that out.

To my knowledge, there are no good GM tuners around here. Which is why I learned how to tune.

 

Too funny 😂

 

Even funnier when you know how true it is.... LOL

 

...and cried like little kids when they dyno'd 165whp with a collection of mismatched parts...the local Pontiac club had half a dozen "500 hp" 400's & 455's that barely dyno'd 200whp to 250whp

 

And THERE is the truth that REALLY hurt very many wannabe gearheads...

 

You have something wrong mechanically with your engine. A LS6 cam would have made more power.

I've never seen a cam swap on an LS, of any kind, pickup only15hp going from a stock cam.

Did you do the cam install or did the shop?

 

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How? Didn't they notice that their cars were just slow?

 

Your tune shows that your brake torque management is still on. Fix that and a couple other things to make your 4.8 liter run better.

I still don't like that cam for a 4.8 but your problems are tune related and it's really just minor things that need to be changed.

 

On my car, he just used the dyno WB, it clamped at the end of the exhaust pipe under the rear bumper.

 

That makes sense