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I have used a “Sloppy stage II “ eBay knock off of an Elgin in a refurbished engine without issue, it’s still running well and sounds great. No markings whatsoever ever on that cam. It was $90 new … lol
I found one discontinued elgin or the same specs on rockauto. They have a nice melling .223/.223 cam was all i had seen i didn't see the other elgin cams but was priced higher.
Im about to purchase a cam and not sure if i should go with the E-1839-P or BTR weekend warrior cam that only has .553 lift.
Has anyone tried the elgin cams or even the knock off ones from ebay? If so how much hp did you gain and did you have to change pushrods for the regrind with a different base circle?
I have used a “Sloppy stage II “ eBay knock off of an Elgin in a refurbished engine without issue, it’s still running well and sounds great. No markings whatsoever ever on that cam. It was $90 new … lol
Nice did you have to change the stock length pushrod as i heard that maybe they were regrinds or the base circle measured different? Im thinking or purchasing this E1839P they told me it came with the genuine elgin box and spec sheet but i was browsing some speedway motors pictures and doesn't have any markings according to the pictures. Did your cam look clean or was it dirty? I read on some reviews they had sharp edges were dirty and needed polishing and some people hard returned them for that reason. I dont want to order and find out the cam is dirty or rusty been sitting on shelf for years as the buyer pays return shipping.
I ordered the elgin E1839P from amazon for 236$ plus tax. Im pretty sure it will work with the stock torque converter on a 3250lb 3.15 gear corvette. Amazon assured me it was a genuine elgin not the knock off worst case is could do a free return. Kmj has the same cam for 234.99$ but i feel amazon has better customer service as far as returns. I read somewhere about them sending rusty cams that werent finished all the way rough edges. I'll see how it looks if any problems ill send it back. Its the secret sauce x 220/224 .575/.575 112 lsa. Im wondering if the 1838 stage 1 cam 216/220 114lsa would be better suited for a daily driver and still have the lowend midrange of the stock cam with stock stahl converter. Does anyone have any videos of the 1838 1839 or 1840 idoling or dyno numbers? Curious too what this will put a 99 auto corvette with tsp headers. Maybe 350hp tops. I did a small bullit cam similar in size with a 6 speed 98 z28 and made 375rwhp 375rwtq but did have a lid, free mods, ud pulley, hooker headers, ported throttle body and clutch. I think this should run fine untuned according to elgin this and the 1838 ran on a stock tune but may have been in reference to 6 speed cars. I think may have to drill a hole in the factory throttle body to get it to idol as the drive by wire tb doesnt have an idol adjust screw.
Anyone ran one a stock tune? It'll drive to the tuner with a bigger cam like the stage 2 1840.
Reason for doing the cam is my balancer has aged rubber pretty sure it needs to be changed before it walks off
Should get the parts together this winter if not before spring time need to get a couple other parts assault racing balancer, pac 1218s and one piece pushrods.
Yes i spoke to kmjperformance thru ebay said it was a real cam and the best price he had was 236.99$ on ebay. Im undecided between a BTR weekend warrior and one of these or a used 224r.
people that want to cheap out on a cam cracks me up. By the time you factor in gaskets to redo the job (providing the initial impression of the cam warrants installation). You will be out any savings you thought you got. Just buy from a known source
people that want to cheap out on a cam cracks me up. By the time you factor in gaskets to redo the job (providing the initial impression of the cam warrants installation). You will be out any savings you thought you got. Just buy from a known source
This is a real cam elgin told me if it wasn't in their logo box then it wasnt the real one like the 100$-150$ ebay amazon regrinds. I made sure it was a real one and spoke to amazon about returning if it wasn't. Elgin told me they could sell one to me at 337$ but was cheaper to find one from one of their retailers. They're nice cams if you ask me they're 1840 makes a good amount of horsepower around 60+hp gains. I ended up spending 255$ from amazon for it will have the extra 150$ for a set of pac-1219s. I went with the 1839 as my cars an auto and really dont want to lug or loose much power with the stock converter on a 99 corvette with 3.15 factory gear. I am maybe looking for a set of 799 heads to throw in with the cam when doing a balancer swap. Reason im going into do a small cam at an affordable price was because you have to remove the rack and pinion to do the balancer. Probably wont be until spring or when it warms up unless the balancer rubber goes bad and leaves me stranded before then. The corvette balancers are known to walk off for some reason. I found a 92$ stock size balancer that does weight maybe 11lbs vs the stock 10lbs but isn't much of a difference. Over on the corvette forum i've read the dorman and ac delco replacement balancers have been know to seperate from the rubber or walk off shortly after being changed. It was either go with this new cam or a used one but then have to worry about used having nicked up or other issues. I'll be ordering a set of pac 1219s, comp 528-kit valve seals and probably the fel-pro front cover gasket kit from amazon for 33$ as from autozone is 50$. It helps save coin. Does anyone use speedmaster ls1 balancer bolts to see if they're about the same as arp but at a cheaper price.The factory dorman balancer bolt is 4$ from amazon but as you can see this rack is in the way or the corvettes and there is no way to access or even turn the motor over by the balancer bolt so its best to have the correct balancer bolt or have it done correctly the first time. You can hand turn it i believe with all plugs removed and a good grip.
BTW the cam was shipped from "elgin industries" straight to an amazon warehouse before being sent to me according to package labels. The cam does have the same core or part numbers on the rear of the cam as a comp cam someone was selling. Guessing its the core they use. The springs out sold either by michigan motorsports or other vendors on amazon. Im waiting on a 15$ a amazon 15$ gift card before ordering the springs and seals. The real reason im going in there is for a balancer swap but if you have enough coin it would be best to throw a decent cam in there as i do the labor myself. The cam has nice specs wish i had seen assault racing or kmj performance has a 30 spline lock-up converter 10.75 bolt pattern with 2400-2800 stahl that would have worked i believe with the corvette 4l60e for 230$. Its a daily driver mildy modded corvette heads/cam at the most.
People that want to cheap out on a cam crack me up. By the time you factor in gaskets to redo the job (providing the initial impression of the cam warrants installation). You will be out any savings you thought you got. Just buy from a known source
Elgin is a legit cam grinder. Maybe not cutting edge, but they have grinds many are after. Usually copies of old favorites. Keep in mind the Sloppy cams are Elgin, and they work fine.
Run it. The 112 LSA should make for nice power under the curve. I have that 112 LSA with a set of ported 243s in my '01 Camaro which really woke it up compared to the stock cam.
Alrite i went with a set of pac-1219s as they allow for a bigger cam and were as much as the 1218s. If anyone thinks i should return them in exchange for 1218s let me know? I also went with the comp cam 528-kit for ls6 ls1 beehive springs which should work according to comp when i had called them. Anyone know if the 16$ viton seals for 5.3 6.0 ls vehicles on amazon are better then the comp valve seals?
I was previously running the Elgin E-1839P camshaft (LEGIT-not the knock off!) for about 3 years in my .030" over 6-0... Regardless of what they tell you it WILL REQUIRE tuning! My truck would not idle at all after installing that cam. I had to do the BRAF/Russ K idle config, and then the VE Table was off, and the MAF was off, and EVERYTHING had to be tuned after installing that cam. But, it would idle down at 650RPM with no issues, had a decent little lope but with a full exhaust you really had to listen for it. When I went to a full 3" ORY pipe through an X-pipe into dual 3" pipes with single chamber Flowmasters, you could hear it a little better. There are MUCH better choices out there though than this cam. I think my engine being a 6.0 I was undercammed with that cam. I imagine that cam in a 5.3 might be a bit rowdier. With that said, that cam really did not do anything well. Soggy bottom end-even with a 2400-2800 stall. lack-luster mid-range, and it was all over by about 6000-but that might be due to the EARLY truck intake I was running. I would never willingly choose that cam again as it just had NOTHING that excited me. I stepped up to the SS2, along with better heads, 3000 stall, and the NNBS intake... Very noticeable difference in power EVERYWHERE. I know it might not mean much to you guys but I can literally hit the gas moderately and it breaks my rear tires loose. I'm running 305/35/22's on the truck so there's a little rubber back there. The old cam you had to stomp it to the floor to get it to bust the tires loose. This new set up will light them up much easier.
Mine would flood out i let it idle relearn and it ran fine for a few hundred miles till i got it dynotuned. Its a 99 corvette drive by wire throttle body stock ls1 auto.
Yes i got a real elgin cam from amazon for 260$ shipped i think it was 23x$ plus tax. E1839P. I got it in with stock size assault racing balancer but mine is an 99 auto 3.15 gear stock converter. Doesnt have the ls6 intake or 6 speed 3.42s made 349whp 351wtq 12.5 afr tuned to 6k shiftpoints. All i have is an oval air filter, tsp headers, stock 2.5" h pipe exhaust and the cam, tsp 7.4 pushrods. I got it dynotuned in march and confirmed afr and dyno numbers from a different shop dynojet. Amazon assured me it was real elgin not knock off or could be returned came in elgin box. I used stock pushrods to get it running then swapped some tsp 7.5 pushrods. I had a similar 98 z28 6 speed 3.42s hooker headers, ud pulley and smaller bullit cam 114lsa 218 or something i didnt have exact specs that made 375whp/375wtq i suspect some is lost thru the auto 3.15s and not having an ud pulley. The first is my old 98 z28 i had sold due to a family emergency im currently trying to sell the rebuilt title 99 corvette if i can get what i want for it to get another 6 speed fbody. My left arm snapped in a car wreck 2017 when i was 27 causing me to have to steer right handed so i had went the auto route last year.
I had to get 18x10.5 295/35/18 tires. I recently cleaned all the niteshade the previous owner had on the headlights.
Its a good cam if you ask me the 220/224 112lsa .575 lift. Tsp told me the 224r would be the biggest theyd recommend with the stock converter. Yes its my daily driver 99 corvette. I had went the auto route this being my first auto besides the 2001 escort someone rearended me in feb 2017 in above photos causing serious injuries for me. The thing is with the 6 speed 98 z28 i had and 6600 rev limiter shift points the car never fell below 5k rpms when racing at the track or driving it hard this auto is hard to find that powerband for max hp its nice cam if you ask me. I really was just after the sound as the car is just a daily driver and the local dragstrip is closed formerly San Antonio Raceway and most new 5.0s, chargers with muffler delete are just as loud. I had to got tsp headers and use the stock 2.5" exhaust as speed engineerings headers with 3" x pipe were on back order last summer when i was looking to swap headers.
I think this is untuned videos with the cam after it did the idle relearn. At first it would bog out or flood out when revved to 3k but eventually relearned idle and ran ok untuned. I was told the maf would compensate to 4k rpms over on hp tuner forum after that would run lean. I only drove it maybe 200 miles to confirm the cam swap went ok before having it dynotuned. After having it dynotuned the front original 92k mile o2 sensors had unsufficient activity and would run rough die out i replaced them with new AFS75 ac delco o2s and the cars ran great since and no o2 ses lights. From elgins ls1 cam list its a stock base circle sized cam uses stock or 7.4 pushrods to add .007 extra lash and called the secret sauce x cam just before the elgin sloppy stage 2 cam. I had it dynotuned on a dynocom 5000 eddybrake dyno which reads high numbers i took it too a different shop with a dynojet 248 and confirmed 12.5 afr 349 whp/351wtq to 6k rpms, I think a 6 speed with the rev limiter at 6600 may make more hp but im not a cam expert.
Last summer right after i did the headers i realized the torque tube was trash and had to remove the headers again to rebuild the torque tube the first is headers only and 2nd two videos are tsp headers with the 1839 cam and stock corvette mufflers. I did put a volant oval 5123 air filter as i read the ziptie mod or open air filter added 15hp the oval tapered filter is out of the way of the open hood area. It is a stock ls1 99 dynotuned 12.5 afr and injectors 96% duty cycle.You can see the difference in just the 1839 cam swap from the first two videos. From 50 feet with the stock mufflers im not sure what type of exhaust a ctsv has stock i think it has a torque tube similar to the corvette maybe not you couldnt hear any exhaust noise. The tuner recommended leaving the auto shiftpoints stock 6krpm and 6200 rev limiter. I think theres more power as my smaller cammed 98 z28 6 speed to 6600 rpm may have ran faster 114-116mph with the 375whp/tq
Any updates? thinking about getting the same cam for my CTS-V....
Yes i posted videos of the car tuned and untuned. It eventually learned relearned the idle would flood out at first after 2-3 starts and idoling for 20 minutes it ran and drove fine untuned but i did have it dynotuned shortly after. I posted some videos above of the car with the tsp headers and cam only.
I'm doing a rebuild on an 02 TA I just picked up for my son, and am contemplating swapping the 241s for some 799s and an LS6 cam I have laying around. The 1838P is appealing to me vs the LS6, but am very concerned with the new California emissions laws, which won't let me adjust idle airflow, etc. with hptuners for a cam with more overlap. Anyone in California deal with these new Cal ID/CVN issues or running a similar cam on stock tune to pass then retuning to compensate correctly?
12-05-2021, 10:15 AM
