LS1 upgrade list
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 4
LS1 upgrade list Alright so I have a 4th gen Fbody trans am that I知 looking to trick out but still be steerable and not a drag only car, follow this will be the full list so far and the reason I知 posting is I知 asking if there痴 anything I知 missing or need along with everything, think I知 only lacking in the fuel department now, feel free to suggest things! I知 a noob. Ignore the huge font and prices, that was just for personal reference lol
COMPLETE BOLT ONS
Nick Williams Performance Throttle Body 102mm Drive by Wire (LS1, LS2, LS3, LS7) $705
https://www.tpsmotorsports.com/nick-williams-performance-throttle-body-102mm-drive-by-wire-ls1-ls2-ls3-ls7.html
98-02 LS1 ASP Racing 25% Underdrive Crank/Alternator Pulleys $256
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/98-02-ls1-asp-racing-25-underdrive-crank-alternator-pulleys/
CAMSHAFT AND SUPPORTING
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-11115-moroso-oil-pump-o-ring-pack-for-ls-car-or-truck.aspx
SUSPENSION/CHASSIS
COMPLETE BOLT ONS
Fast Toys Ram Air Kit FTRA 1998-2002 Camaro & Firebird $200
https://fasttoys.net/shop/catalog/Fast-Toys-Ram-Air-Kit-FTRA-1998-2002-Camaro-Firebird-p-1.htmlLSXR 102mm Intake Manifold for LS1/LS2/LS6 $974 from FAST
https://www.fuelairspark.com/lsxr-102mm-intake-manifold-ls1-ls2-ls6.htmlNick Williams Performance Throttle Body 102mm Drive by Wire (LS1, LS2, LS3, LS7) $705
https://www.tpsmotorsports.com/nick-williams-performance-throttle-body-102mm-drive-by-wire-ls1-ls2-ls3-ls7.html
2000 Pontiac Firebird DeWitts 1998-2002 Camaro/Firebird Direct Fit 2 Row Radiator (Low Level & Oil Connection) Auto Trans $669.99
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-10678-dewitts-1998-2002-camarofirebird-direct-fit-2-row-radiator-low-level-oil-connection-auto-trans.aspx2000 Pontiac Firebird Texas Speed 100mm Mass Air Flow Sensor $286
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-660-texas-speed-100mm-mass-air-flow-sensor.aspx2000 Pontiac Firebird TSP 98-02 Camaro & Firebird 2.00" Long Tube Headers With 3.00" Collectors - 304 Stainless Steel $666.99
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-4908-tsp-98-02-camaro-firebird-200-long-tube-headers-with-300-collectors-304-stainless-steel.aspx1998 - 2002 FOR Camaro Trans Am STAINLESS TRUE DUALS 3" X PIPE DUMPED LS1 SS Z28 $294
https://www.ebay.com/itm/151106131274?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=151106131274&targetid=12630940033 86&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=9026243&poi=&campaig nid=14859008593&mkgroupid=130497710760&rlsatarget= pla-1263094003386&abcId=9300678&merchantid=108134507&g clid=CjwKCAiAtdGNBhAmEiwAWxGcUrUQz00b5_X_3qefIJlSV lL2-ep6E0jd3WCePUXZeePl2xvDpYUgCRoCEy0QAvD_BwE98-02 LS1 ASP Racing 25% Underdrive Crank/Alternator Pulleys $256
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/98-02-ls1-asp-racing-25-underdrive-crank-alternator-pulleys/
2000 Pontiac Firebird ACCEL - FUEL INJECTOR - 48 LB/HR - USCAR - HIGH IMPEDANCE - 8 PACK $382.95
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-10850-accel-fuel-injector-48-lbhr-uscar-high-impedance-8-pack.aspxCAMSHAFT AND SUPPORTING
Summit Racing SUM-8707R1 - Summit Racingｮ Pro LS Automotive Camshafts $300
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-8707r1COMP Cams 13702-KIT - COMP Cams GM LS Series Retrofit Trunnion Kits $147
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-13702-kitTrick Flow Specialties TFS-2500286P - Trick Flowｮ Double Platinum .660 LS Dual Valve Spring and Retainer Kits $231
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tfs-2500286pSummit Racing SUM-14917400 - Summit Racingｮ HDR Thickwall Chromoly Pushrods $155
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-14917400#overviewSummit Racing SME-143012 - Summit Racingｮ LS2 Timing Chains $30
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sme-1430122000 Pontiac Firebird GM High Performance LS Oil Pump, Wet Sump $80 with o ring
https://www.texas-speed.com/p-5111-gm-high-performance-ls-oil-pump-wet-sump.aspxhttps://www.texas-speed.com/p-11115-moroso-oil-pump-o-ring-pack-for-ls-car-or-truck.aspx
Summit Racing SUM-G2704-10 - Summit Racingｮ Torque Converters $360
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g2704-10SUSPENSION/CHASSIS
Power Stop K1548 - Power Stop Z23 Evolution Sport Brake Upgrade Kits $315
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/pwr-k1548/make/pontiac/model/firebird/year/2000BMR Suspension SFC023R - BMR Subframe Connectors $269.95
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-sfc023r/make/pontiac/model/firebird/year/2000BMR Suspension TA001H - BMR Xtreme Torque Arms $289.95
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMR-TA001HBMR Suspension KHP003R - BMR Level 3 Suspension Handling Packages $1589
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-khp003rBMR Suspension PHR002R - BMR Suspension Panhard Bars $129.95
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bmr-phr002r/make/pontiac/model/firebird/year/2000Strange 12 Bolt F-Body Street Rear End With Eaton 33 Spline Truetrack Differential For 1993-2002 Camaro, Firebird, & T/A With ABS $2910
https://www.strangeengineering.net/product/12-bolt-f-body-rear-end-for-abs-brakes.html/ Alright so I have a 4th gen Fbody trans am that I知 looking to trick out but still be steerable and not a drag only car, follow this will be the full list so far and the reason I知 posting is I知 asking if there痴 anything I知 missing or need along with everything, think I知 only lacking in the fuel department now, feel free to suggest things!
As to if it will be STREET-able, depends on the tuners skill or lack of skill.
BTW - 4th Gen LS cars use drive by cable throttle bodies with the factory PCM. You have a drive by wire Nick Williams listed for ~$700 the Nick Williams drive by cable is normally less than ~$400
A lot of part selection depends on what you want to do with the car.
A Procharger or MagnaCharger might be a better choice than heads, cam & intake for an LS1.The HCI project described sounds like ~$4,500 more than half the cost of a Procharger or MagnaCharger. Either can make more power, be more streetable and be used with other motors more easily.
My selection of parts would be radically different for a newly acquired 4th Gen LS car. I mostly focused on maintenance and making absolutely sure the car is in excellent mechanical condition before spending any mod money. Usually 5,000 miles of daily driving and doing ALL maintenance, all fluids etc will reveal what sort of car one has to work with.
Nothing quite sucks like putting a new torque converter in an old transmission that's seen better days etc. Or buying a 12 bolt when the 10 bolt was in great shape and might have lasted 300 1/4 mile passes at the drag strip in an A4 car. Have seen some 10 bolts go 400+ passes at the strip and some break on the street due to wheel hop.
I picked up a 238k mile Z28 turned out car was in outstanding mechanical condition, good cosmetic condition so the Z28 ended up as the new daily driver except for winter time. A lot of the initially planned mod's like new radiator, engine swap, rear end swap proved unneeded etc Almost four years and now 256k miles nearly issue free.
Last edited by 99 Black Bird T/A; Dec 13, 2021 at 11:16 AM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 4
Yes, it will be steerable.
As to if it will be STREET-able, depends on the tuners skill or lack of skill.
BTW - 4th Gen LS cars use drive by cable throttle bodies with the factory PCM. You have a drive by wire Nick Williams listed for ~$700 the Nick Williams drive by cable is normally less than ~$400
A lot of part selection depends on what you want to do with the car.
A Procharger or MagnaCharger might be a better choice than heads, cam & intake for an LS1.The HCI project described sounds like ~$4,500 more than half the cost of a Procharger or MagnaCharger. Either can make more power, be more streetable and be used with other motors more easily.
My selection of parts would be radically different for a newly acquired 4th Gen LS car. I mostly focused on maintenance and making absolutely sure the car is in excellent mechanical condition before spending any mod money. Usually 5,000 miles of daily driving and doing ALL maintenance, all fluids etc will reveal what sort of car one has to work with.
Nothing quite sucks like putting a new torque converter in an old transmission that's seen better days etc. Or buying a 12 bolt when the 10 bolt was in great shape and might have lasted 300 1/4 mile passes at the drag strip in an A4 car. Have seen some 10 bolts go 400+ passes at the strip and some break on the street due to wheel hop.
I picked up a 238k mile Z28 turned out car was in outstanding mechanical condition, good cosmetic condition so the Z28 ended up as the new daily driver except for winter time. A lot of the initially planned mod's like new radiator, engine swap, rear end swap proved unneeded etc Almost four years and now 256k miles nearly issue free.
As to if it will be STREET-able, depends on the tuners skill or lack of skill.
BTW - 4th Gen LS cars use drive by cable throttle bodies with the factory PCM. You have a drive by wire Nick Williams listed for ~$700 the Nick Williams drive by cable is normally less than ~$400
A lot of part selection depends on what you want to do with the car.
A Procharger or MagnaCharger might be a better choice than heads, cam & intake for an LS1.The HCI project described sounds like ~$4,500 more than half the cost of a Procharger or MagnaCharger. Either can make more power, be more streetable and be used with other motors more easily.
My selection of parts would be radically different for a newly acquired 4th Gen LS car. I mostly focused on maintenance and making absolutely sure the car is in excellent mechanical condition before spending any mod money. Usually 5,000 miles of daily driving and doing ALL maintenance, all fluids etc will reveal what sort of car one has to work with.
Nothing quite sucks like putting a new torque converter in an old transmission that's seen better days etc. Or buying a 12 bolt when the 10 bolt was in great shape and might have lasted 300 1/4 mile passes at the drag strip in an A4 car. Have seen some 10 bolts go 400+ passes at the strip and some break on the street due to wheel hop.
I picked up a 238k mile Z28 turned out car was in outstanding mechanical condition, good cosmetic condition so the Z28 ended up as the new daily driver except for winter time. A lot of the initially planned mod's like new radiator, engine swap, rear end swap proved unneeded etc Almost four years and now 256k miles nearly issue free.
Last edited by imaswfan; Dec 13, 2021 at 11:45 AM.
Your post has a ton of gray area. What's streetable for some may not be for others. With that said, here are a few pearls:
Fast intake should be ported for maximum gains. Tony Mamo would be a good start for such.
That cam will pull for days. Comp has a drift cam that will also pull and rev for days. Many ways to skin a cat. No matter what you decide to do, a good set of heads serves as a great foundation for ANY project. Some force induction guys might tell you otherwise however don't believe the hype. Heads + force induction make more power everywhere.
Bang for the buck you can't beat a supercharger. Nitrous will work very well with your 2" LT headers. Depending on which way you go will decide converter stall speed.
Fuel wise: you have not stated how much power you are attempting to achieve. For starters, a 340lph pump should be good for 700rwhp which allows for future expansion. Remove regulator in tank (will save you labor time in the future.)
There's no mention of lifters. Your budget will dictate which one you choose.
BTW, ditch the MAF and go SD.
As highlighted above, get a great tuner for best results preferably on a mustang dyno.
There's so much more that goes into making a good combo and a great combo. More time deciding purpose of car will help you have a better experience once everything is put together. Hopefully this gets you going in the right direction.
Fast intake should be ported for maximum gains. Tony Mamo would be a good start for such.
That cam will pull for days. Comp has a drift cam that will also pull and rev for days. Many ways to skin a cat. No matter what you decide to do, a good set of heads serves as a great foundation for ANY project. Some force induction guys might tell you otherwise however don't believe the hype. Heads + force induction make more power everywhere.
Bang for the buck you can't beat a supercharger. Nitrous will work very well with your 2" LT headers. Depending on which way you go will decide converter stall speed.
Fuel wise: you have not stated how much power you are attempting to achieve. For starters, a 340lph pump should be good for 700rwhp which allows for future expansion. Remove regulator in tank (will save you labor time in the future.)
There's no mention of lifters. Your budget will dictate which one you choose.
BTW, ditch the MAF and go SD.
As highlighted above, get a great tuner for best results preferably on a mustang dyno.
There's so much more that goes into making a good combo and a great combo. More time deciding purpose of car will help you have a better experience once everything is put together. Hopefully this gets you going in the right direction.
Affordable ($4,000 to $4,500) HCI packages with ported stock heads, Fast intake depending on cam choice and tune...400whp to 450whp are pretty doable maxing out a stock fuel system that's in excellent condition.
Expensive ($7,000+) Aftermarket heads, full roller rockers, low lash solid roller cam, ported Fast or MSD intake, true dual exhaust, quality aftermarket lifters electric water pumps, crank scrapper, etc. 450 whp to ~535 whp...depending on cam and how much over 7,000 rpm one is willing to go
Procharger $6,500 about 400whp if rings in motor are worn out to ~650 whp on stock short block in good condition for a while with cam & fuel system upgrades. Can make ~1,400+ hp etc
MagnaCharger $7,500 simpler install depending on supporting mods like cam and fuel system etc 450whp to ~650whp. Hard to push past ~700whp usually. Instant power at low rpm.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 4
Lot of it is personal preference and budget. Personally I like affordable stock ported heads and cam packages and MagnaChargers
Affordable ($4,000 to $4,500) HCI packages with ported stock heads, Fast intake depending on cam choice and tune...400whp to 450whp are pretty doable maxing out a stock fuel system that's in excellent condition.
Expensive ($7,000+) Aftermarket heads, full roller rockers, low lash solid roller cam, ported Fast or MSD intake, true dual exhaust, quality aftermarket lifters electric water pumps, crank scrapper, etc. 450 whp to ~535 whp...depending on cam and how much over 7,000 rpm one is willing to go
Procharger $6,500 about 400whp if rings in motor are worn out to ~650 whp on stock short block in good condition for a while with cam & fuel system upgrades. Can make ~1,400+ hp etc
MagnaCharger $7,500 simpler install depending on supporting mods like cam and fuel system etc 450whp to ~650whp. Hard to push past ~700whp usually. Instant power at low rpm.
Affordable ($4,000 to $4,500) HCI packages with ported stock heads, Fast intake depending on cam choice and tune...400whp to 450whp are pretty doable maxing out a stock fuel system that's in excellent condition.
Expensive ($7,000+) Aftermarket heads, full roller rockers, low lash solid roller cam, ported Fast or MSD intake, true dual exhaust, quality aftermarket lifters electric water pumps, crank scrapper, etc. 450 whp to ~535 whp...depending on cam and how much over 7,000 rpm one is willing to go
Procharger $6,500 about 400whp if rings in motor are worn out to ~650 whp on stock short block in good condition for a while with cam & fuel system upgrades. Can make ~1,400+ hp etc
MagnaCharger $7,500 simpler install depending on supporting mods like cam and fuel system etc 450whp to ~650whp. Hard to push past ~700whp usually. Instant power at low rpm.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2021
Posts: 22
Likes: 4
Your post has a ton of gray area. What's streetable for some may not be for others. With that said, here are a few pearls:
Fast intake should be ported for maximum gains. Tony Mamo would be a good start for such.
That cam will pull for days. Comp has a drift cam that will also pull and rev for days. Many ways to skin a cat. No matter what you decide to do, a good set of heads serves as a great foundation for ANY project. Some force induction guys might tell you otherwise however don't believe the hype. Heads + force induction make more power everywhere.
Bang for the buck you can't beat a supercharger. Nitrous will work very well with your 2" LT headers. Depending on which way you go will decide converter stall speed.
Fuel wise: you have not stated how much power you are attempting to achieve. For starters, a 340lph pump should be good for 700rwhp which allows for future expansion. Remove regulator in tank (will save you labor time in the future.)
There's no mention of lifters. Your budget will dictate which one you choose.
BTW, ditch the MAF and go SD.
As highlighted above, get a great tuner for best results preferably on a mustang dyno.
There's so much more that goes into making a good combo and a great combo. More time deciding purpose of car will help you have a better experience once everything is put together. Hopefully this gets you going in the right direction.
Fast intake should be ported for maximum gains. Tony Mamo would be a good start for such.
That cam will pull for days. Comp has a drift cam that will also pull and rev for days. Many ways to skin a cat. No matter what you decide to do, a good set of heads serves as a great foundation for ANY project. Some force induction guys might tell you otherwise however don't believe the hype. Heads + force induction make more power everywhere.
Bang for the buck you can't beat a supercharger. Nitrous will work very well with your 2" LT headers. Depending on which way you go will decide converter stall speed.
Fuel wise: you have not stated how much power you are attempting to achieve. For starters, a 340lph pump should be good for 700rwhp which allows for future expansion. Remove regulator in tank (will save you labor time in the future.)
There's no mention of lifters. Your budget will dictate which one you choose.
BTW, ditch the MAF and go SD.
As highlighted above, get a great tuner for best results preferably on a mustang dyno.
There's so much more that goes into making a good combo and a great combo. More time deciding purpose of car will help you have a better experience once everything is put together. Hopefully this gets you going in the right direction.
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Verdad Gallardo No idea if these are still available new. AFR has a stock replacement offered now days to fill that niche.
TEA ported versions in fully optimized LS1/LS6 engines have made 500whp to 520whp with all the expensive supporting mod's.
Even stock LS6/243/799's with new valve spring kit these heads unported, typically give nice gain with a fat cam (231/236 duration) on an LS1 if your willing to spin the rpm.
It's easy to end up with $1,600 to $1,800 buying and having ported LS6/243/799's. Many folks choose a set of as cast Trick Flows for a little more money.
706/862 - aka 5.3 heads - basically same head casting after porting. 706 semi permanent mold slightly superior to 862 before porting.. Used prices ~$200 typically. Porting, valve springs, valves etc typically $1,300 depending on what you want. Texas Speed sells/sold them out right no core charge for ~$1,350
241's - stock head on 2001-2002 model year LS1. Less powerful than the two listed above due to big chamber and lower compression. Seldom used these days. Advanced Induction had a nice welded up version that raised compression. More expensive than 5.3's and typically less effective.
as someone that has had 2 head and cam fbodies I would personally just go straight to a procharger, in the end having a head and cam car gets kinda boring once you get used to the power and it gets expensive once you start to add everything up. That being said a head and cam car is easy to maintain and will still be quick enough to beat a lot of things you will run into on the street.