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No leaks at all on an almost 400,000 mile engine??? Boy, did you get lucky. Put 399,000 miles on my '03 3.8L Buick LeSabre, and it was leaking everywhere, lol. Put 370,000 on my '95 Grand Cherokee 5.2L (a 318 Dodge, by any other name!!), and it leaked everywhere, too. Don't think the "no leaks" part had anything to do with the oil......
LOL! Indeed. That new fangled one piece real man seal yhey cam up,with in 1987 was the bomb...wink.
One pair of valve gasket seals at 380,000 miles. Only place that engine has ever leaked on that 305/L03. It's sitting in my garage on an engine stand for last 6 years & floor is dry under it.
Teaser...wink...one of these days that old ~400,000 mile 305 is going into an old C10 etc still a good engine. (for a 305)
That Mobile 5w-30 synthetic is the secret sauce.
Very unlike my 72 Vette's original 350 L46/L48 that always had seepage from that 2 piece rear main seal.
LOL! Indeed. That new fangled one piece real man seal yhey cam up,with in 1987 was the bomb...wink.
One pair of valve gasket seals at 380,000 miles. Only place that engine has ever leaked on that 305/L03. It's sitting in my garage on an engine stand for last 6 years & floor is dry under it.
Teaser...wink...one of these days that old ~400,000 mile 305 is going into an old C10 etc still a good engine. (for a 305)
That Mobile 5w-30 synthetic is the secret sauce.
Very unlike my 72 Vette's original 350 L46/L48 that always had seepage from that 2 piece rear main seal.
Same oil I used, with 4,000-6,000 mile change intervals.........
The big secret to a good break-in is to vary speeds and loads as much as possible to get good ring seating.
Maybe use cheaper dino (non-synth) oil and change it AND filter at 500, then about 1000, then 2000 to get any hidden crud and assembly lube out. Then use synthetic at regular intervals.
C'mon G... Let's go easy on our newbies now because from the looks of this thread you have us all beat.
LOL He's been here for almost 3 years. No newbie.
Plus, I couldn't resist when I saw he posted in every thread under this heading with a single sentence affirming the previous post.
Not going to clog up the original posters thread; but I do need to get my post count up. Long time lurker and have gained tons of knowledge from the site. Now since I've had a chance to put the knowledge into action, I can spread what I've learned.
Not going to clog up the original posters thread; but I do need to get my post count up. Long time lurker and have gained tons of knowledge from the site. Now since I've had a chance to put the knowledge into action, I can spread what I've learned.
I appreciate an honest reply, and can get behind it. I hope you didn't mind a little ribbing. I was in your spot once too.
Enjoy participating here! I always do...
I appreciate an honest reply, and can get behind it. I hope you didn't mind a little ribbing. I was in your spot once too.
Enjoy participating here! I always do...
Thanks I def will. Like I mentioned I've learned a lot and I'm still a post newbie so I have earn my stripes. LOL
The day you stop learning is the day you stop living. That's how I feel about it. Like right now, I've been trying to make polyol esters react with nitromethane for the past 4 days all because of a fleeting thought I had. I have to know because, well... science!
The ls1 doesn't require break in with stock style parts. Use assembly lube when putting parts in and synthetic 5w30. Then run it. Change oil shortly after and move to usual 3500-5000 mile or 1 year oil changes. Whichever comes first.
Seems to me since you aren’t doing the bottom end, the simple use of break in lube on the cam, roller wheels, pushrod ends and valve stem tips would suffice.
If you want to use break in oil, that’s fine. Summit has either 30w or 10w-30 mineral based with ZDDP.
I used it last time I had my engine apart. IIRC, it’s green colored.
This!
This thread could have been answered in that one post instead of the vast misinformation based on feelings and magazine articles from 30 years ago.
04-04-2022, 04:46 PM
