1997-2004 GM LS Gen III Series | Made In USA | Lift 0.525” / 0.525” | Duration @ 0.050 225/236 Deg | LSA 110

It's being sold as having an operating range from 2000-6000. It's low lift though.. I was hoping to find this exact cam with lift somewhere in the .550"-.575" range. This is a '69 El Camino that this 6.0LS engine is going into and I wanted it to have something better cam wise than just the factory cam. I have HP tuners so I can take care of the tune. The 110 LSA according to Richard Holdener should make better power down low than similar cams with larger lift, and wider LSA's-and should "sound" like a bigger cam than what it is. What are your thoughts? Any comparable cam you would/could recommend? I'm on a budget so would like to stay under $300. That cam is $259 on SHAM-A-zon.. Definitely want 110 LSA on the cam. The engine will have a Camaro/LS1 intake, 706 heads with 2" valves and mild porting, and opening of the chambers to unshroud the bigger valves. Flat top pistons, Gen IV rods. Car will have headers and a cold air intake, and true dual exhaust 2.5" all the way out the back. That's it performance wise. Just wanting something that will have a little rumble down low, but not shift the power band up to a point where it will never be used on a street car. This car has a TH700R4 Trans and 3.73 gears that is ONLY ever going to be street driven. It will NEVER see the track, or racing of any type. Just a cruiser for an older gentleman.

Any thoughts would be much appreciated.

 

I would look for a similar grind in an actual name brand camshaft from a reputable manufacturer. As important as the cam is to the overall performance of your engine I would not rely on anything less than a quality name brand with after sales support and actual real world feedback.

 

The specs sound like the old ASA GM cam. A 110° LSA will make for a mighty lopey idle, and probably be difficult to tune for good street manners. There are better grinds available.......

 

I ran that cam (well, a GMPP ASA cam, 226/236 110 LSA, .525"/.525") in my Miata before my current setup. I was not happy with the low speed manners or the fuel mileage.

For a higher lift version, look for the "Howard's ASA" cam.

 

I'd pass on the SHAM-A-zon special, the sweet taste of low price will be quickly forgotten due to the bitter aftertaste of poor driveability and mediocre performance that will lingers.

BTR offers the EPS 32634132 it seems like a good match for what you're wanting. Later with a better intake manifold replacing the LS1 manifold this cam can really shine.Specs: 226/234 .604"/.604" 113+2 This cam is a great all-around cam for 5.7L applications. It will have a very broad, smooth power curve from 3000 to 6800 RPM with a relatively choppy idle. This cam coupled with TFS 215 CNC LS cylinder heads has made 472 RWHP in a 2004 Z06 Corvette. This cam will usually provide power numbers usually associated with much larger cams.

Yes, it cost a little more but long term will (in my opinion) be worth the cost.

 

There plenty of off the shelf cams from reputable vendors on here. If not contact places like GPI or Comp cams and they will grind one to your specification

https://www.compcams.com/lsr-cathedral-port-219-227-hydraulic-roller-cam-for-gm-ls-gen-iii-iv.html

 

Not a lot of camshaft in the sub-$300 but with some vendors if you buy their kits the discount can sometimes put it about that cost.

The BTR Weekend Warrior line fall below that and the Stage 4 is 224/230 111+2 but the lift is a conservative .553/.553. With 5* overlap you'll still get the chop and the 41* intake valve closure should keep it streetable. And @Summitracing brand is also running about the same price currently. Their 8707R1 has about the same overlap as the BTR (6*) with an IVC of 43* but with .600" lift.

 

EBay

 

What specifically was wrong with the low speed manners?

 

But I want a 110 LSA as that makes for a more rowdy sound, and it's also known, or at least advertised, that a tighter LSA equates to more LOW END grunt at the trade off of higher end RPM. Remember this vehicle will NEVER see 6000 RPM.. It will live at idle to 4500 for 99.999999% of it's life. The tighter LSA is supposed to really build good torque in the lower RPM range where this engine needs it the most. The El Camino is probably 4200 lbs... with shitty gears, and no stall. And no plans to change any of that... This is NOT your typical "I WANT BIG POWER at 10,000 RPM" request.. This is... I want a good cam lope with decent torque where the car needs it the most-off idle to 4500 rpm (max).

 

I'm very interested in any better grinds that might be available. A lopey idle is exactly what my customer is looking for.. I firmly believe that I possess the skill to tune it. My only question really relates to how much power it will produce right off idle in the 1500-2500 range as that is where the CRUCK (car/truck-Remember it's an El Camino) will spend most of it's life. If the cam I listed will perform well in that RPM range... I'm going to buy it right now and run the dog-snot out of it!

 

Currently running this cam in a 6.0 in my 2004 Mazda RX8 and while I'm "happy" with it.. It certainly is NOT a good choice for low RPM street use. As light as my RX8 is this cam won't build any power until at least 3500RPM.. This is a manual trans car and without a stall converter-its a f'ng DOG down low.. It's like you've hit a nitrous button at 3500 rpm as it will begin screaming from there on... NOT a good choice for low end grunt though at all. If you want to KILL all low rpm grunt-just run the sloppy stage 2 cam.. Guaranteed to make you smile at 6500+.. Guaranteed to make you weep, or fall asleep, at anything under 3500.. That's why I wanted the tighter LSA.. It supposedly really wakes up the LOW END. LOW END is all I want for this car. I've got the compression. I've got the gearing 3.73 with 27.5" tall tires.. I just want some good grunt off the line-NOT a 6000+ RPM screamer as the car will never see that.. Factory exhaust manifolds.. NO long tube headers.. If that helps. If the CRUCK falls flat on it's face at 4500 RPM-thats fine! As long as it spins the tires until that point.

 

That cam has the same duration #'s at .050" as the GM Hot cam... just a little more lift. Again, not a bad cam.. My son is running the GM Hot Cam in his 5.3 and it's soggy down low, and lack-luster up top. It does NOTHING well in my opinion. Maybe the higher lift will wake it up a little bit? Otherwise, not a gamble I'm willing to take and the LSA is poop and the price is fly-covered poop for the cam that it is.

 

This cam with a 110 LSA would be HEAVEN! Mid lift cam, decent duration #'s, with a close LSA..

 

BTR Weekend Warrior Stage 4: Summit Racing 8707R1:

 

I agree the Sloppy doesn't have much low end grunt without a converter. I went from the sloppy stage 2 to the cam motion "little chopper" (222/232 .595" .587" 108+3*) in a 6.0 LQ9 truck. It noticeably brought the power range down lower and had a nice lope. It fired right up ran and idled well on the sloppy tune. After data logging the changes were minimal between the two tunes. The chopper closes the intake early at 36* degrees which builds the dynamic compression and with 11* degrees of overlap it has a nice lope. Without a decent stall you're shooting yourself in the foot with most performance camshafts. With a factory stall I'd probably go with the BTR Texas Ranger camshaft.

The "little chopper" in my LQ9 2000 Sierra (3200 stall)

 

Really liking the way that Red Trans-Am is loping... Plus the cam specs are not far off from what I was looking for. The maroon silvy though... sounds a little calmer but I think that just may be the longer exhaust. At this point, it's a toss up between the BTR Warrior Stage IV, and the Little Chopper. Both seem to be in the realm of exactly what I'm envisioning this CRUCK needing. Thanks guys! The short videos really helps sell the camshafts. Plus, the BTR is only $249 right now! Cant' beat that! I think the BTR is the winner. Gonna order one now. Sincerely appreciate the help in making what usually is a difficult decision. I have only ever changed 1 camshaft out after installation.. Ran it for 200 miles and figured it was just too tame for me. After that, I've still erred on the side of "not too big" but at least I'm trying never to go too small again. I like the mid-lift cams with duration numbers under 239, and LSA's in the 110-112 range. Seems to be the sweet spot for daily drivers with minimal tuning. Peace my peeps!

*Update-just ordered the BTR Stage 4. After tax and shipping it was $283.60. Not bad!

 

While the above is true for same intake/exhaust duration, LSA is just the byproduct of valve events and 110* LSA alone has no meaning in camshaft specification. As duration goes up, keeping tighter LSA will have negative impact on low end street driveability when camshaft bucking will become more and more pronounced. It gets old and annoying in no time.
Please read “Why LSA doesn’t matter” thread in sticky section of this forum.

 

So you bought this?
BTR CAMSHAFT - LS1/LS2 - N/A STAGE 4 - 33348123R0

Specs: 233/248 .630"/.615" 111.5+2.5

The largest offering in our naturally aspirated LS1/LS2/LS6 lineup, the Stage 4 has proven it's worth time and time again. The Stage 4 sacrifices a some low rpm torque while on a mission to make max peak power. It is not uncommon to see 460+whp with proper supporting mods including a quality set of cylinder heads. In automatic cars, a higher RPM torque converter is a requirement. Consult your tuner regarding stall speed needs!Lobes designed in house by BTR!

It will probably sound cool 😎 and if that's the main goal OK. However, it reads like a serious parts mismatch parts if it's for that stock stall, El Camino mentioned previously with an LS1 intake to choke much of the top end potential of the cam. Good cam with wrong supporting parts gives the worse of both worlds: compromised bottom end needing an aftermarket stall and choked top end.

 

The Miata spends a lot of time at very low throttle openings and relatively low (1000-2000) rpm. This cam did a lot of bucking and surging in that range. It was not smooth. Parking lots were not fun. Over 2000 rpm was fine,

I'm better at tuning now than I was then, but still, 10 degrees of overlap is not a recipe for good manners in a very lightweight car (2400#) with a manual transmission.

Also, that cam got about 23 mpg on the highway. My current cam (1.5 degrees overlap) gets 31+. About a point more compression now, but still ...