Hello all, I am going to be doing my first engine build for my truck this summer. I am going to be missing a lot of stuff and would like some tips and tricks, any advice is appreciated. Also, I know I don�t have a Camaro but this is one of the most active forums I could find.

I would like to start off by apologizing if I go over topics that have already been covered or questions that are already answered. I was hoping to kind of gather all my info here in order to help me make decisions.

I am going to be building a LQ4, it�s going in to my �00 Silverado 2500 4x4. I work as a contractor so I would still like some utility out of my vehicle but I want to give her some extra ponies.

I don�t necessarily have a goal as far as HP goes, but somewhere in the 400-450 range would be awesome. I want to run the stock rotating assembly, or at least crank and rods. I have not decided whether or not boring it out is worth the effort for my application. I will be replacing all the bearings in the bottom end.

So here is what I have come up with so far; I want to run 706 heads, found some CNC ported for a good deal, I figured the slight bump in compression wouldn�t hurt anything and add power to everything over the whole curve. The company I am going to purchase from also has a set of CNC ported 823 heads, any opinions on these over the 706 heads, both being ported?

I would like to run either TBSS intake or LS2 intake, or an aftermarket one in the same $ range. I know the Fast LSXR is probably better but it�s not really within my budget.

I believe I�ve also decided on sticking with the stock rockers and doing the trunnion upgrade. From what I�ve heard, that will support my power goals no problem.

Now this has been the real tricky part for me, the cam. I�ve watched hours of Richard Holdener and I think the sloppy stage 2 cam he uses is what I�d like to use, as in his tests in increased both torque and HP numbers across the board with no losses. I think this is an area where I could really use expert advice, as I don�t want to go way over on what is necessary for my power goals, but I also don�t want to skimp on my cam selection.

I currently have 35� tires on 3.73 gearing, but I�m going to be upgrading to 4.56. My transmission is a 4l80e, which I�ve heard is good for 400-500HP.

Going to keep the standard oil pump as well. Injectors we�re a question but I think I�d need be I could use the 8.1 injectors.


That is essentially all I�ve gathered for myself, I wanted to get the opinions of people who have done this before me instead of just going hog wild on ordering parts. I appreciate all the advice and suggestions you guys can give me. Thanks in advance.

 

Okay there is a lot to address here. So here goes.

It sounds like you want to build a 6.0L on a budget and you need it to still work as a truck. So as for an intake, you want a TBSS. But don't go on ebay and buy one. I mean you can if you want to throw money away. You being from Michigan you have an advantage of being in a state with a good selection of U pull it style junk yards. Most of these yards charge a flat price for any "intake manifold" or "cylinder head". So you are going to go there and find a 4.8L or a 5.3L that is a 2005 or newer. 2007+ if it's an Express van. These motors (mostly) came with 243/799 heads and a good number of them had TBSS intake manifolds from the factory. The last time I bought heads and an intake from a U pull it junk yard I spent $125 for everything. These heads will flow the same as the 317's that your LQ4 has on it. But they will bump your compression up.

The sloppy stage 2 cam would be a horrible choice for a work truck. For one you need to swap in a higher stall converter for that cam. That will cause issues with towing and hauling. The SS 2 cam is great in a car or a truck that isn't used as a truck. What you want to look at would be the Summit Racing LS truck cams. These are purpose made for what you're trying to do. I don't know if you would make 400 hp to the tire with a setup like this. But it would be a nice jump from stock and should be close.

As far as injectors go when you're at the junkyard getting your heads and intake, take a look and see if the vehicle you pulled the parts from was flex fuel. If it was then keep the injectors from that motor. They will flow around 36 lb/hr and would be plenty big for a NA pump gas 6.0L

The biggest issue you face in this is tuning. You have to figure out if you're going to take a stab at it yourself or take it to a pro. Also how are you going to tune it? HP tuners, PCM hammer, Holley? But if you don't have any way of tuning it I wouldn't start it with a factory tune. Tow the thing to a shop or worst case have a mail order tune done.

I don't know if any of this helps. I'm sure others here will have different advice for you. But one things for sure, this forum has a lot of very knowledgeable people who like to help. Use the search function and you will find a wealth of information here.

Also check out this guys youtube channel. He's also from Michigan. He talks about where he goes to pull parts in a lot of his videos.

https://www.youtube.com/c/TheDrivewayEngineer

Good luck!

 

The LS2 intake used NA proved inferior to the LS6 intake. The TBSS is better than either and usually much less expensive. Often TBSS can be had with fuel rail and injectors. Depending on what you build, the stock TBSS injectors maybe big enough.

Regarding Stock Rocker Arms, I'd leave the rocker arms alone unless you find one going bad. In real life, I have know one person that had issues with a stock LS1 rocker arm bearings in 24 years. It was on a 98 Trans Am. One rocker arm scattered needle bearings when the car was like two years old and two year later another rocker was discovered going bad on a cam install. I've know of two dozen plus + LS engines with 250,000+ miles on the stock rockers and no issues. I think the internet blows the needle bearings failures out of proportion. Of course any worn out parts should be replaced.

Seen two sets of trunnion upgraded rocker arms done by "professionals" that I could feel the bind in the rocker arm trunnion 😳.

If you feel you must upgrade the trunnion avoid Comp Cams upgrade kit there gave been many issues in the past. CHE, BTR, Cstraub and a few others seem good when installed correctly.

Not a fan of 317's NA, great for boost however.

As for cams, the Truck Norris cam seems all the rage these days. The dyno results look good. That might be worthwhile to research.

 

Thank you! There is a lot to cover but you gave me a lot of helpful input.

Overall it seems like TBSS intake is the way to go for me.

For my application are you meaning to say just a set of 243/799 without any milling would be plenty of increase in flow?

The cam still is my biggest issue here, cause im torn between calling it my work truck and where I really draw that line. I tow with it maybe 1-2 times every 2-3 months, and nothing really over 6,000lbs. I�ve never driven anything other than a diesel with over 350HP while towing so I really have no idea how it would perform.

As for those injectors, I hadn�t heard that, but that�s good to know. I�ll definitely pull them if I come across any!

I wanted to take a crack at HPtuners, but that may be too ambitious for my first time. I know my way around computers but the tuning aspect of it I have no idea what I�m looking at.

Also thank you for providing that channel, I�ll check him out and see what good yards are near me.

 

Sounds like everyone is suggesting the TBSS intake, that�s the route I�ll go.

The current LQ4 I have in my truck has 275k miles on it and she still purrs. Granted things may look a little different inside but oh well, hasn�t quit on me yet. Rocker arms have been the iffy area for me, have seen and read so many different things.

Heads I will be replacing no matter what, I want the possibility of adding more power in the future, but N/A power.

I�ll take a look at that cam, see what it�s all about. Thanks for the info!

 

The 799 or 243 casting heads will flow about the same as your factory 317 heads. But they will bump up your compression ratio to around 10:1 if I remember correctly. This is a better option in my opinion then having your 317 heads decked because with the 243 or 799 heads you can still use stock length push rods. Also I've pulled lots of 243's off of running engines and simply cleaned them up myself and run them with no machine work. No it's not the right way to do it. But lots of us have done it and it has worked out well. But YMMV.

 

If it won�t run me backwards in search of power, the cnc ported heads I looked at have a smaller combustion chamber, I can�t remember exactly if they were 66 or 68, but the 317 heads had like 71.04. I am more than willing to spend money here. Aftermarket heads are pretty much sold out from everywhere I looked, and double what these heads I found are. I can include a link if you�d like to see them.

I�m not afraid to spend some money on it, I just don�t want to waste money on parts I don�t need. I would love the capability to throw more power at it in the future if possible, cause I may end up just getting another truck/van for work purposes.

EDIT: Forgot to mention that the 823 heads I found have slightly larger intake and exhaust valves than 317 heads.

 

To be honest at the power level you're after and the type of vehicle it is, aftermarket heads would be a waste of money. The 243/799 heads will support well over 400 hp. Take the money you saved on not buying aftermarket heads and buy a good torque converter. I highly recommend FTI but there are lots of good brands out there.

Also the 243/799 heads are 64cc so depending on your head gasket that should put your compression around 10.4:1. You could get that lower with a thicker gasket. I'm running a LQ9 with flat top pistons and a factory gasket. That puts me at almost 11:1.

 

WS6Store's cam packages with their added options (timing chain, lifters, oil pump etc...) seem to be very budget friendly and you can choose any cam you want from their suppliers.

 

Alrighty I�ll look in to that, will save me a bunch of money.

i thought about going with LQ9 pistons before but I wasn�t sure if the extra compression would end up hurting anything that was left stock.

 

Thank you for your input, I�ll check them out!

 

Truck Norris cam, modify a set of long tubes from a 1500 to clear your front driveshaft, 706/862 or 243/799 heads and get a GOOOOOOOOOD tune......

 

You�re most likely fine with stock internals if your not planning on power adders, which sounds like not. Gen3 rods have proven themselves well past 500hp. Really a matter if the motor needs bored or not should you think about aftermarket rotating assemblies. The sloppy cam I run in a turbo application. Maybe better ones out there but it�s no slouch. On a na build in a work truck I wouldn�t get to crazy on the cam. The stock compression will leave some power on the table. Adding a cam with a good tune should get you up close to your goals. I�d be looking for cams that flow more mid range to get the kick in the butt feeling. 500ft/lbs at 3500-4000 and 400 hp at 6000 would be better than 400ft/lbs at 3500-4000 and 450hp at 6000. For a truck with your tire sizes.

 

Great advice. I'm reading up as well for my build.