BigWeave

Got a junkyard lq9 and looking to rebuild everything in the motor. Going to boost it. is a machine shop worth going to.? Do I really need one? All the ones 100+ miles from me are quoting me $2500+ for machine work on my block and I’m not trying to spend that much. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Willing to hone myself

G Atsma

How many miles on it? If less than 200k it likely needs nothing. Send it...

theunderlord

What work are they quoting you?

jetech

Is this for your 8-9 second turbo build?

BigWeave

yes. But I’m not paying a machine shop 2500+ for regular stuff. That’s not including install or parts. I’m buying my parts and doing the install

jetech

Go to the salvage yard. Find a Gen 4 5.3l and race it. The 5.3l is cheap enough to replace 4 times if it lets go before spending $2500.00 on a "rebuilt" LQ9. Lots of guys are doing it this way

BigWeave

paid $2600 for this lq9 with a 4l80e trans with it. I’m not running a 5.3

jetech

You can do as you see fit... . Have fun and enjoy it

Haggar

In general, for 9s or mid high 8s, either a 5.3 or 6.0 gets you there. But you've got the 6.0, so run it.

Most don't rebuild anything. Do your basics:

Cut and check the filter and look in the pan for evidence of wear
When you swap the cam, you'll be able to see the cam bearings
Run a compression check on it of you can.
When you gap the rings, you'll get a view of how it looks inside.

If it all checks out, then go with it. If you do want to rebuild, break it down cost per service. Some other threads recently showed their local machine shop service prices for each operation. I think it was a thread about boring vs honing.

helicoil

iTrader: (104)

From experience I can tell you this. Take it apart and inspect EVERYTHING. I have been inside many of these salvage yard pull outs to find things such as tweaked valves (out of concentricity), broken rings, broken valve springs, worn cam lobes, failed lifters, hard crank seals, bent pushrods, water damage, etc. I would never install an LS without hearing it run or without going completely through it, you just never know when you got a bad apple. If there is no ridge in the bore, or surface rust, I would not hone it. If you are using a flex hone and a drill, you are better off with the factory finish provided the bore is still straight and round.

Haggar

I'd expect that he's be pulling the heads anyway to pull the pistons and gap the rings. The cam, springs, lifters, and pushrods belong in the trash and should be replaced. Upgrade the trunnions also. check the valves for good seal while they are out, hand lap if necessary. Replace the crank seal when you update the oil pump.

These are all things you can do without machine shop services, as long as no issues are found.

Ls7colorado

iTrader: (3)

Wow, glad I always pull my engines from wrecked vehicles, I have yet to have ANY of those issues except for maybe some slight water/condensation build up.
I do however always crank them on the stand before installing.

But if your planning to run 8's then your gonna spend money......

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

I was quoted $850 by a local machine shop that manufactures their own billet LS cranks to do all necessary machine work labor on a LQ9 to make it a 402 and that includes all the basic stuff along with balancing the rotating assembly, using a torque plate, and clearancing the block to accommodate the 4” crank, That’s with regular ARP studs, not 1/2”.

Kawboom

To fully machine a short block, including crank balancing to new pistons, with cam bearings installed, my local shop quotes right at $1050 and this is a good shop that has rave reviews. Your local guys are nuts.