iquentos123

Hi! I am trying to read up on this by myself but there is so much info that I get lost.

I want to build a 5.3 or 6.0 LS for a project.
I want around 700Hp at the crank. (with room for more would be nice, but maybe not possible given budget)
Budget for the whole engine build is 10 000 dollars or less. The less the better.
I also want this to be reliable. I will only be using the car on nice weekend days. So not daily driver reliable, but I want the thing to last.
Car will be used max 2 times a week (Saturday and Sunday) Those will be long drives, 2+ hours

Is this even achievable with my requirements? 700hp - Reliable - Under 10k
Not guessing cam, springs and turbo is reliable. So what other parts do I need?
Injectors? fuel system? any forged internals? Gaskets? Studs? Heads?

Any tips, recommendations or inputs are welcome.

Tommy42088

It's probably wouldn't hurt to put a little more detail, vehicle description? Do you have the transmission already? Torque converter? Rear end? Ecu? Wiring harness, etc? Forced induction? Is this 10 thousand for engine only or is it to cover everything, including parts I've just listed.

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

Here you go. From 4.8 to 7.0 and how to get to 700hp. From boosted to NA.

TrendSetter

i had a awd silverado first with a 4.8 then a 5.3 that was likely just over that number and i towed, drove it all over the state, beat it to death, etc and was dead reliable for a few years. it was a real basic combo, ebay head studs, triple 12 cam, pac 1218 springs, two turbos.
700 crank is a pretty easy number these days, especially with a 10k budget.

iquentos123

Not sure about what car to put the engine in yet. But I'm in no rush, so scouting for some good deals.

I have nothing yet, no parts . So nothing has been decided yet. Not even dead set on the engine yet. But ls seemed like it aligned the best with my interests.

10k for complete engine only.

iquentos123

I have seen this and many of Richards other videos.

And the idea I got from reading a bit was that these builds are to showcase what can be done with a few mods. But not for a reliable build. Just for cheap power until the engine blows.
But I might have gotten the wrong idea? So please correct me on that

iquentos123

Wow, that's awesome!

What broke in the end?
What would be weak point of this build?
Would it be even better with arp head studs and something like a btr cam and btr springs?

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

No, I think your right. Richard loves to show a 5.3 making 4 figure power on the dyno. What you don't see is how well the engine is still running, if at all, a year or two down the road.

Codys89RS

I think that’s the flaw with a lot of those videos. You can bolt on parts and rev it to the moon to get a number. Or guys can go to the strip and turn it up and send it for an et saying it’s a stock 5.3 with a big turbo! But how many motors did it take to get there or how long did it last after that.

my two cents on the build is do it right. $10k for a motor with 700hp should easily be doable while avoiding knockoff parts. You also don’t have to spend the most money for the best parts. Search and find deals.

G Atsma

He will mention that in the video, but does the tests to show what CAN be done. Then you're on your own.
Common sense should dictate how long an engine with 800 HP will live vs one with 400 HP

iquentos123

I agree! But it's the HOW I am looking for. How do I do it the right way? What parts need to replaced for this to be done the right way?

TrendSetter

i ventilated a piston on the 4.8 but it was totally my fault. i was messing around with real aggressive timing seeing how it affected turbo spooling and forgot it was in there and drove it hard.
the 5.3 never broke, i took it out to put a bbc in and the project ended up abandoned.
the 4.8 wouldnt have ever broken either if i put the correct tune back in after experimenting.

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

The first thing is landing on the platform you want to use. 5.3 or 6.0. You need to go FI or nitrous to get to that number so if you’re going FI are going turbo or SC? After that you have basics that need to be done

If you want to do a solid build that will out last your use of it then go with the following:

Eagle H beam forged rods
Weiseco forged pistons for FI
clevite bearings
Mahle or Diamond piston rings for FI
You can keep your stock crank since LS cranks can easily handle upwards of 1K hp with 0 issues

Then you’ll have to get the right turbo for the engine size you’re going to use.
If you’re going with a 5.3 a precision 7675 should be plenty. If you’re going with a 6.0 then a Borg s475 would be more along the lines.
There are variables with each platform so the best thing would be to settle on what engine you’re going to use and then more precise info about turbos what heads to use best compression ratio with what fuel youll and so on will again be easier for us to guide you with. Right now not knowing the engine size we will throw **** against the wall to see what sticks.

TrendSetter

aftermarket bottom end is totally unnecessary for 700 crank.

MuhThugga

If you haven't settled on a car and are looking for roughly 600 at the wheels, why not do a head/cam swap on a C6 Z06?

iquentos123

I will be going for a turbo 5.3

Cam and injectors won't be needed?

iquentos123

If they were cheaper here I would definitely buy a c6 z06. But they are getting cheaper, so might wait it out.

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

of course but injectors are easy you can go with 1100cc injectors to be able to handle what you’re throwing at it. When it comes to a cam I personally would call Comp Cams or Texas speed and see if an off the shelf will work for what you want to do or if a custom grind will work best.

grinder11

iTrader: (1)

Absolutely correct, Gary. The more power you make, the shorter the lifespan. Sure, an extra 50hp-100hp on a stock build, lets say a cammed and ported LS6 engine, isnt going to throw reliability in the toilet. But years ago, I read several different articles on engine development, by different writers and engines from different manufacturers. Even motorcycle engines and diesels were included. In almost every case, the engines (back then!) were over engineered to the point that you wouldn't appreciably shorten engine life if you didnt increase output more than 20%. Anything over 20% generally shortened engine life. One of my sons works as an ME at Cummins diesel. I asked him about the "Bully Dog" handheld tuners, which one of my friends has, and gives a tremendous boost to diesel output. He said they found thru R&D that engine life was always compromised when using such a tuner, which changes the point the waste gate opens on turbos. They know when someone has tuned their diesel. He said they had to learn how to track it, because it became obvious that warranty claims were increasing right along with hand held tuner sales, lol....