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Help broken threads on 862 heads

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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 11:05 AM
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Default Help broken threads on 862 heads

so Im new to ls stuff and I need some help I bought this gen III 5.3 with 862 heads and one of the valve cover bolt thread post broke off which I either didnt catch when buying it or I was stupid enough to over torque it but I just wanna know If theres another way to fasten it down or a way to repair the post


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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 03:22 PM
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Prolly require a tack weld or two to hold that down properly. I’m not sure I’d trust epoxy, but it’s worth a try.
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Old Nov 16, 2023 | 03:42 PM
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I would drill and tap. I could be a bit tricky only because if you don't center punch the bolt dead center your drill bit will want to walk of center. Use a super sharp center punch to start. Then a small diameter drill bit to start. Make sure it's super sharp. Then drill for the correct tap size.
Having said the above do you have enough room to weld a nut onto the bolt in the head? I haven't done it but have seen it done on the TV car shows to remove broken studs.
Either way I would remove the two rockers on either side to give you more working room.
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Old Nov 17, 2023 | 01:07 PM
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What about drilling and tapping a new hole and either using a longer bolt or a stud?
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Old Nov 17, 2023 | 05:33 PM
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I think that would be the WTG right there. You could make a sleeve similar to what I did for the ICT 1/2" spacer.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...r-spacers.html
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 07:27 AM
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If you drill and tap, be mighty careful how deep you drill!! Could maybe hit a water jacket. I agree with Che70velle that a good aluminum welder could repair this, and that's the way I'd go. Also consider that it is similar to the GM "cracked cap" technology they use on the rods, in that the two pieces should fit togeter nearly perfectly, so location, angle, etc., should be right on. It may not hurt to run the bolt into the broken piece as pictured, manipulate the screw into the head, then screw the piece down the bolt until it fits as perfectly as possible on the head. May have to rotate the bolt slightly up or down, too, until the piece nests as good as possible. Maybe leave the bolt in as the aluminum is welded to ensure no movement of the boss.....
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 02:29 PM
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Are they the early style heads with the notch on The deck surface..i have a set of those castings sitting out in the garage id be happy to send to you , providing you covering the shipping!!.they came off of a 2000 LM7 they are bare castings though
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Old Nov 18, 2023 | 09:54 PM
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It appears the boss broke off. 706/862 heads are a plentiful. Id just get another core.
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Old Nov 19, 2023 | 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Jake Wade
It appears the boss broke off. 706/862 heads are a plentiful. Id just get another core.
Makes the most sense if you're pulling the head.
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Old Nov 20, 2023 | 01:25 PM
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Originally Posted by dawgs74
Are they the early style heads with the notch on The deck surface..i have a set of those castings sitting out in the garage id be happy to send to you , providing you covering the shipping!!.they came off of a 2000 LM7 they are bare castings though
that would be great man
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Old Nov 20, 2023 | 01:26 PM
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My only problem with drilling and tapping is that the thread post isnt long enough to drill and tap because Id be drilling straight down into the intake runner and at some far point in the future I do wanna run boost and Id be worried about it cracking
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Old Nov 20, 2023 | 01:30 PM
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Ive had the engine apart for some time and the heads are off the reason I wanted to repair it is because they guy I bought it off of said that they were upgraded valves and .660 springs and I dont wanna spend the money on new castings then have to pay to get them all matched
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Old Nov 20, 2023 | 03:35 PM
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If you decide to drill and tap you should be able to tell when you drill thru the bolt so you don't drill into the head. You would only need the bolt diameter worth of threads in the boss. Those valve cover bolts don't need to be really tight. The other three valve cover bolts will locate the valve cover just fine.
One more thought. Can you get a really small center punch/chisel and try tapping on what's left of the bolt on the edge and rotate the broken part out?
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Old Nov 20, 2023 | 04:44 PM
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Machine shop gets that out easily, is it worth spending money on? another core head might be the easiest way to fix the problem.
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Old Nov 21, 2023 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1 TJ
If you decide to drill and tap you should be able to tell when you drill thru the bolt so you don't drill into the head. You would only need the bolt diameter worth of threads in the boss. Those valve cover bolts don't need to be really tight. The other three valve cover bolts will locate the valve cover just fine.
One more thought. Can you get a really small center punch/chisel and try tapping on what's left of the bolt on the edge and rotate the broken part out?
The bolt is not sheared off into the head it's the boss that snapped off.
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Old Nov 21, 2023 | 06:31 PM
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Use 3 bolts to attach and hold the valve cover. Epoxy a VC bolt in the 4th hole to plug the leak....
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Old Nov 21, 2023 | 07:42 PM
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I like the epoxy the bolt idea to the valve cover idea.
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Old Nov 21, 2023 | 10:19 PM
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If it were one of the center two bolts, I’d say it would be fine, but it’s an end, and it’s gonna need a fastener out there to keep oil weeping away. At least that’s my take on it anyway.
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Old Nov 22, 2023 | 10:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Che70velle
If it were one of the center two bolts, Id say it would be fine, but its an end, and its gonna need a fastener out there to keep oil weeping away. At least thats my take on it anyway.
You're likely right, but these cast valve covers are pretty rigid, not like the old stamped SBC valve covers. It still might work.
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Old Nov 22, 2023 | 03:52 PM
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Worth a try. Maybe a bit of high temp silicone to help seal the o-ring gasket.
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