Small update.

I decided to return the LQ9 flat top pistons and go with the LQ4 dished pistons.

With the LS2 799 heads, I should be just under 10.5:1 compression ratio.

Didn't make it to the machine shop, I had to work.

 

I agree on the pistons and compression. The BTR shaft rocker set up is mega overkill but good valvetrain never hurts. I just did a Truck Norris cam in my LQ4. After some debate and internal struggle I ended up just reusing the factory rocker arms. Didn't even do a trunion upgrade. So far I'm happy with it and don't expect any issues.

 

OK folks, I got to the shop to measure the rods.

The measurements were done on a Sunnen rod machine.

All rods measured about the same regardless of stock or APP bolts.

Every rod was just slightly wider at the parting line when compared to in-line with the rod.

There was no out of roundness or egging of the bore with either bolt.

As I already have the ARP bolts, I'm gonna use them. The stock GM bolts will be scrapped.

 

Hey folks, I had a few dead months but my work has picked up and I'm finally able to continue on this project.

I got the block out from machine shop jail (I paid the bill) and I'm itching to build.

In my humble career of engine building, it's always been for performance meaning head and main studs.

I'm staying with the stock TTY bolts. I have brand new GM head bolts.

It's my understanding that the main bolts can be reused but because they've already been stretched, they should be torqued to 65/55 lb-ft instead of by angle again.

The question is: When re-using main cap bolts and going to 65/55, do the threads get lubed like traditional main cap bolts or do they go in dry?

**** shot:

 

Lube them 100%. Threads and under heads. Use ARP lube if you have some. Doesn’t take much.

 

Thanks!

 

I started my short block assembly. I laid all the main journal upper bearings in the block, dropped in the crank and installed the center (thrust) cap and torqued it down to get an end play reading.

The crank was really tight, it would barely turn, Thinking I did something wrong, I pulled the cap and checked the others. Same, real tight. I even tried with and without the side bolts.

I used an engine rebuilding shop, not my usual high priced performance guy who’s swamped with big block work. The crank was cut 10 under and they gave me bearings to match. They asked for the crank back and they took off “just a touch more”. Nice guys but I’m a bit pissed they didn’t test fit the crank while the had it and the block.

Fits perfect now, end play is just over .003".

I’ve gone through the first 243 head, by this weekend I’ll be dropping pistons.

One question folks: How can I confirm the exhaust valves are the sodium filled version?

 

Paul, if you can accurately weigh the valves, post the weight in grams.

 

I used a US Nickle to confirm the accuracy of my scale. It's 5 grams.

The exhaust valve weighs 86.5 grams.

 

Those are not sodium filled valves. The sodium filled exhaust valves are right around 65 grams.