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So I put the head back on, lubed the washers, threads and nuts and on the outside studs in the middle the nuts are not even flush with the stud. I haven’t torqued these down yet because of this. I’ve moved the head around and it’s centered where it is supposed to be. And so is the washer. Any thoughts if this is an issue?
the inside nut in comparison to the outside nut, this is like this on both side in the middle row.
I'd contact ARP to see what they say. Just to be sure here, you didn't put lube UNDER the washer, correct? Not that it has anything to do with your issue, but lubing the underside is a no-no and can damage your block. I have a set of studs I'll be installing soon, but I ran into an issue and had to disassemble my shortblock - If I figure anything out, I'll let you know.
I'd contact ARP to see what they say. Just to be sure here, you didn't put lube UNDER the washer, correct? Not that it has anything to do with your issue, but lubing the underside is a no-no and can damage your block. I have a set of studs I'll be installing soon, but I ran into an issue and had to disassemble my shortblock - If I figure anything out, I'll let you know.
yes I did, In my other thread that’s what others told me to do.
I'd contact ARP to see what they say. Just to be sure here, you didn't put lube UNDER the washer, correct? Not that it has anything to do with your issue, but lubing the underside is a no-no and can damage your block. I have a set of studs I'll be installing soon, but I ran into an issue and had to disassemble my shortblock - If I figure anything out, I'll let you know.
just got off the phone with Bart from ARP customer service. He said don’t worry about it and go ahead and torque them down. I asked if the level difference on the nut is a concern and he said the only time you going to have an issue with pulling a thread is when the blocks been compromised etc.
Weird that their own instructions explicitly state to NOT lube under the washer, and he says it's okay. I'm assuming that's because the serrated base is going to bite in regardless, but if it were my engine? There's no way. It takes 10 minutes to clean off the lube. What if he's wrong? What if you pull the threads? Hope you're okay with that possible result.
Weird that their own instructions explicitly state to NOT lube under the washer, and he says it's okay. I'm assuming that's because the serrated base is going to bite in regardless, but if it were my engine? There's no way. It takes 10 minutes to clean off the lube. What if he's wrong? What if you pull the threads? Hope you're okay with that possible result.
No no I was talking about the uneven nuts on outside of the rocker arm row, I pulled the head off before torquing and cleaned the lube off using carb cleaner and alcohol. I went ahead with the torque procedure from 30,60,90 and it all went down fine. No pulled threads or anything. Went over it again to make sure it didn’t come loose as the other nuts were torqued and they’re all holding fine. Not 100% on the lube under the washer but I just cleaned it off and let the washers soak in rubbing alcohol. All went fine.
Lube under the washer does not ruin the block or the head where it actually makes contact.
The reason they don't want you to do this is because you can over tighten the nut and stretch the stud when the washer slips. This is why they changed to a serrated washer that will bite into the head and stay put.
That was exactly why I warned against the lube. People have pulled their threads out of their block attempting to hit a torque value that wasn't possible due to the lubricant applied. I just did my heads, and the serrated faces were installed dry. No issues with the install.
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ARP head stud nut level difference 
