LS1 Forged Rod & Piston Set Up
#1
LS1 Forged Rod & Piston Set Up
Rebuilding my LS1
I was going to get some new Forged Rods and Pistons For my 1998 LS1 out of a Camaro SS.
Not sure what to get or what sizes to buy, bore size, ring size? Does it come with rod bearings? Does it come balanced? I hear a lot of people go with wisco pistons and eagle rods. Flat top? I heard the H beam is stronger than the I beam. And arp 2000 rod bolts are good. I’m ready to fill my shopping cart but not sure what items to put in for my set up.
Car is currently Running Texas Speed 228R Cam, 243heads, long tube headers, and LS6 Intake manifold. Stock Crankshaft.
Car is gonna stay that way for a while, but would like to be able to handle Nitros or Boost in the future.
I was going to get some new Forged Rods and Pistons For my 1998 LS1 out of a Camaro SS.
Not sure what to get or what sizes to buy, bore size, ring size? Does it come with rod bearings? Does it come balanced? I hear a lot of people go with wisco pistons and eagle rods. Flat top? I heard the H beam is stronger than the I beam. And arp 2000 rod bolts are good. I’m ready to fill my shopping cart but not sure what items to put in for my set up.
Car is currently Running Texas Speed 228R Cam, 243heads, long tube headers, and LS6 Intake manifold. Stock Crankshaft.
Car is gonna stay that way for a while, but would like to be able to handle Nitros or Boost in the future.
#2
Launching!
iTrader: (4)
Rebuilding my LS1
I was going to get some new Forged Rods and Pistons For my 1998 LS1 out of a Camaro SS.
Not sure what to get or what sizes to buy, bore size, ring size? Does it come with rod bearings? Does it come balanced? I hear a lot of people go with wisco pistons and eagle rods. Flat top? I heard the H beam is stronger than the I beam. And arp 2000 rod bolts are good. I’m ready to fill my shopping cart but not sure what items to put in for my set up.
Car is currently Running Texas Speed 228R Cam, 243heads, long tube headers, and LS6 Intake manifold. Stock Crankshaft.
Car is gonna stay that way for a while, but would like to be able to handle Nitros or Boost in the future.
I was going to get some new Forged Rods and Pistons For my 1998 LS1 out of a Camaro SS.
Not sure what to get or what sizes to buy, bore size, ring size? Does it come with rod bearings? Does it come balanced? I hear a lot of people go with wisco pistons and eagle rods. Flat top? I heard the H beam is stronger than the I beam. And arp 2000 rod bolts are good. I’m ready to fill my shopping cart but not sure what items to put in for my set up.
Car is currently Running Texas Speed 228R Cam, 243heads, long tube headers, and LS6 Intake manifold. Stock Crankshaft.
Car is gonna stay that way for a while, but would like to be able to handle Nitros or Boost in the future.
#3
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
I'd run the summit PRO ls stuff.
Edit. Let me just say this. I had my summit pro ls pistons with me, went to my buddys house and he had a new set of wiseco pistons. we compared them. I could not find a difference except some grooves cut in the top ring land. The wrist pin was exactly the same too.
Edit. Let me just say this. I had my summit pro ls pistons with me, went to my buddys house and he had a new set of wiseco pistons. we compared them. I could not find a difference except some grooves cut in the top ring land. The wrist pin was exactly the same too.
Last edited by Kfxguy; 05-16-2024 at 02:24 PM.
#4
Launching!
iTrader: (4)
I'd run the summit PRO ls stuff.
Edit. Let me just say this. I had my summit pro ls pistons with me, went to my buddys house and he had a new set of wiseco pistons. we compared them. I could not find a difference except some grooves cut in the top ring land. The wrist pin was exactly the same too.
Edit. Let me just say this. I had my summit pro ls pistons with me, went to my buddys house and he had a new set of wiseco pistons. we compared them. I could not find a difference except some grooves cut in the top ring land. The wrist pin was exactly the same too.
Edit: Buddy has a bare 6.0 block just chilling wouldn't mind making a 370/408 out of with one of these setups.
#5
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
I read somewhere that their supplier(s) are Wiseco/K1. Pretty solid reputations as far as I know. Seem to be decent for the $ unless you wanted a big power/rpm build that might require some more stout pieces.
Edit: Buddy has a bare 6.0 block just chilling wouldn't mind making a 370/408 out of with one of these setups.
Edit: Buddy has a bare 6.0 block just chilling wouldn't mind making a 370/408 out of with one of these setups.
#6
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
I just assembled my engine with a stock crank and Summit Pro LS crank and rods. Steve Morris Engines did all my machining, and he was impressed that the rotating assembly needed nothing in the way of balancing. Said they spun it up and it was already good. It's quality stuff!
#7
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
I just assembled my engine with a stock crank and Summit Pro LS crank and rods. Steve Morris Engines did all my machining, and he was impressed that the rotating assembly needed nothing in the way of balancing. Said they spun it up and it was already good. It's quality stuff!
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#8
Teching In
If you're going to run nitrous, I'd suggest a 2618 piston, I'd use CP Bullets and a Molnar PwrAdr rod.
I beams, all things being equal, are stronger than H-Beam ... but not a 400 dollar I-Beam. Pretty much all of the aftermarket rods have sufficient redundant capability that it's not something anyone needs to think about.
I beams, all things being equal, are stronger than H-Beam ... but not a 400 dollar I-Beam. Pretty much all of the aftermarket rods have sufficient redundant capability that it's not something anyone needs to think about.
Last edited by Mark O'Neal; 05-25-2024 at 02:31 AM.
#10
Teching In
Please, at least have it checked. Not needing it was just luck.
#11
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Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Ohio, Georgia, Nevada, Texas
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@LSX.Tom,
We have a variety of options for the LS1 in our Pro LS piston and rod combos. The pistons are modern 2618 forgings designed for boost and nitrous. They have thick ring lands for durability. The rods are top-notch 4340 H-beams precision-honed in the USA to +/- .0001". The rods come out of the box with ARP-2000 7/16 rod bolts with 200,000 psi tensile strength. We include a premium ring pack including steel top rings with Napier-hook second rings for maximum strength and oil control.
The main thing would be what is the end goal for the build. Are we building for N/A or are we building for boost? If it's going to be N/A for now and then boost down the road you'll have to sacrifice a bit of power now with a dished piston for the "end goal" of boost. Then the bores need to be checked. You may need to have them bored/honed to clean them up and go with the .005" over option. We recommend .004" piston-to-wall clearance with our Pro LS 2618 alloy pistons. You'll need to have the balance checked of the rotating assembly with the new pistons and rods.
7cc dish with 6.125" rod (9.7:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock Bore: SUM-PR36L8987
- .005" over: SUM-PR36L9037
-3cc dome with 6.098" rod (11:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock bore: SUM-PR368983
- .005" over: SUM-PR369033
Our H-beam rods will require narrow rod bearings. We recommend the Clevite H-series CLE-CB663HN.
We have a variety of options for the LS1 in our Pro LS piston and rod combos. The pistons are modern 2618 forgings designed for boost and nitrous. They have thick ring lands for durability. The rods are top-notch 4340 H-beams precision-honed in the USA to +/- .0001". The rods come out of the box with ARP-2000 7/16 rod bolts with 200,000 psi tensile strength. We include a premium ring pack including steel top rings with Napier-hook second rings for maximum strength and oil control.
The main thing would be what is the end goal for the build. Are we building for N/A or are we building for boost? If it's going to be N/A for now and then boost down the road you'll have to sacrifice a bit of power now with a dished piston for the "end goal" of boost. Then the bores need to be checked. You may need to have them bored/honed to clean them up and go with the .005" over option. We recommend .004" piston-to-wall clearance with our Pro LS 2618 alloy pistons. You'll need to have the balance checked of the rotating assembly with the new pistons and rods.
7cc dish with 6.125" rod (9.7:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock Bore: SUM-PR36L8987
- .005" over: SUM-PR36L9037
-3cc dome with 6.098" rod (11:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock bore: SUM-PR368983
- .005" over: SUM-PR369033
Our H-beam rods will require narrow rod bearings. We recommend the Clevite H-series CLE-CB663HN.
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LSX.Tom (07-02-2024)
#13
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Join Date: Jan 2008
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That's a good point @LS1Formulation.
@LSX.Tom, If you're willing/able to run better fuel you can run raised compression and boost.
@LSX.Tom, If you're willing/able to run better fuel you can run raised compression and boost.
#14
Are the -3cc dome pistons good for nitros?
@LSX.Tom,
Are the -3cc dome pistons good for nitros?
We have a variety of options for the LS1 in our Pro LS piston and rod combos. The pistons are modern 2618 forgings designed for boost and nitrous. They have thick ring lands for durability. The rods are top-notch 4340 H-beams precision-honed in the USA to +/- .0001". The rods come out of the box with ARP-2000 7/16 rod bolts with 200,000 psi tensile strength. We include a premium ring pack including steel top rings with Napier-hook second rings for maximum strength and oil control.
The main thing would be what is the end goal for the build. Are we building for N/A or are we building for boost? If it's going to be N/A for now and then boost down the road you'll have to sacrifice a bit of power now with a dished piston for the "end goal" of boost. Then the bores need to be checked. You may need to have them bored/honed to clean them up and go with the .005" over option. We recommend .004" piston-to-wall clearance with our Pro LS 2618 alloy pistons. You'll need to have the balance checked of the rotating assembly with the new pistons and rods.
7cc dish with 6.125" rod (9.7:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock Bore: SUM-PR36L8987
- .005" over: SUM-PR36L9037
-3cc dome with 6.098" rod (11:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock bore: SUM-PR368983
- .005" over: SUM-PR369033
Our H-beam rods will require narrow rod bearings. We recommend the Clevite H-series CLE-CB663HN.
Are the -3cc dome pistons good for nitros?
We have a variety of options for the LS1 in our Pro LS piston and rod combos. The pistons are modern 2618 forgings designed for boost and nitrous. They have thick ring lands for durability. The rods are top-notch 4340 H-beams precision-honed in the USA to +/- .0001". The rods come out of the box with ARP-2000 7/16 rod bolts with 200,000 psi tensile strength. We include a premium ring pack including steel top rings with Napier-hook second rings for maximum strength and oil control.
The main thing would be what is the end goal for the build. Are we building for N/A or are we building for boost? If it's going to be N/A for now and then boost down the road you'll have to sacrifice a bit of power now with a dished piston for the "end goal" of boost. Then the bores need to be checked. You may need to have them bored/honed to clean them up and go with the .005" over option. We recommend .004" piston-to-wall clearance with our Pro LS 2618 alloy pistons. You'll need to have the balance checked of the rotating assembly with the new pistons and rods.
7cc dish with 6.125" rod (9.7:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock Bore: SUM-PR36L8987
- .005" over: SUM-PR36L9037
-3cc dome with 6.098" rod (11:1 with .045" head gasket and 243 heads)
- Stock bore: SUM-PR368983
- .005" over: SUM-PR369033
Our H-beam rods will require narrow rod bearings. We recommend the Clevite H-series CLE-CB663HN.
#17
TECH Senior Member