Hello, I've had this 6.0 engine in my fbody for 5 years now, I bought the car with the build engine so I don't have specifics on the build. I have just done heads, cam and clutch so I've seen the forged pistons, rods and crank. The car saw about 10-12 bottles of spray before getting twin 67's on it. Still running and driving today, no odd noises, 40~ psi oil pressure cold, 30~ warm, no abnormal sounds. Did an oil change and found some metal shavings on my hand and in the filter. It's not a disco party, but definitely some larger shavings. It's hard to see in the photos but I do see some copper colored shavings and some of the shavings are magnetic.



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What does it have for cylinder compression? Oil consumption? I'd probably send an oil sample to Blackstone Labs to see what it has for wear metals but keep on running it a while longer.

Rick

 

I need to do a compression test, but there's no abnormal amount of smoke from the breather, oil consumption is about a quart per 3000 miles, its been like that since I've owned the car

 

I really wouldn't be that concerned about it. Oil analysis is cool if you've never done it but It's not making any noises and it's not really using much that much oil but is it an iron block or aluminum? How high are you revving it? Also what oil are you using?

I run 5W40 synthetic in my iron 6.0 build but I don't worry about the brand too much as long as it's a name one just whatever's on sale. Many of us who drive spiritedly overfill the crankcase by a 0.5 -1.25 quart as measured on the dipstick.

 

It's an lq4 iron block rev it out to 6-6.5k. I was running castrol 5w30, I switched to amsoil dominator 10w40 after the turbos went in

 

 

Ripped the motor out and apart and found all the rod bearings with wear and main bearing scored

 

It wasn't playing well together Time to build back better..

 

How much boost are you running? What kind of power numbers here?

 

Same question I was gonna ask..

 

I was running right around 10 pounds around 700-800 hp on this setup. Before the turbos it was on a 150 shot

 

Id wager it was set up too tight for those power levels. Go back with .0028-.003 mains and .0025 min on the rods. Use a 10296 Melling pump. The higher volume will help keep your bearings cooler. Use a SacCity barbell or an Improved Racing barbell. Oil control is important with that power level. Go the extra mile with cleaning on final assembly…you CANNOT a get everything clean enough. Mock up everything as many times as necessary to ensure all clearances are correct. Take your time. Patience is a virtue and will pay dividends here on final assembly.

 

I was thinking the same thing as well as far as it being set up too tight. Every forged crank I've used in the past has always seemed to run on the minimum spec with standard bearings. Going to see how much they need to polish off the crank, should be barely any, it looked pretty good. I already got a new 10296 pump for it and the engine had a barbell already installed. Going give the pump and block oil system some love with a sand scroll and polish out any hard castings as well. My biggest concern is the cylinder walls now, hopefully they arent out of round and can toss the pistons back in. What bearings are people running now? Seen a lot of back and forth, thinking of just going with the clevite H series on it, and maybe changing the rods, apparently the scat pro comp I beams aren't recommend for power adders

 

Clevite bearings are my go to. I was Kings biggest fan until all of a sudden they got sloppy. I measure out to the .0001 though. Clevite is always true. If your bores aren’t too bad, which they shouldn’t be at all, give them a dingleball hone and send it. Piston skirts will tell you if the bores are out of round or not. Any abnormal wear on the skirts?

 

The skirts had a normal amount of wear, your usual worn coating on the ends but don't really get into the aluminum of the piston

 

seems like an easy rebuild to me from the info here. I’ll say it again however…you can’t get everything clean enough. Keep us posted please. We love pics!

 

In the engine building world "cleanliness is next to godliness"

 

Been a while since I've updated this adventure, the crank checked out good with a polish, rods were the cheap scat forged rods only rated for 700 crank hp also. Decided to go with 2618 forged pistons from diamond and drop the compression a bit and grabbed a set of the tsp super I beams on Christmas sale. Got a set of coated calico bearings for the engine now and did the line hone for main studs. Also #8 had a really deep vertical gouge at the top of the cylinder that was in the ringland area so it got a sleeve and the rest of the cylinders a fresh hone. Finally have everything back from the machine shop to start prepping it for assembly