Need help asap truck won’t run
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Teching In
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Need help asap truck won’t run Hey yall thanks for any help in advance but here goes it. I have a 06 silverado I swapped a LS1 into about 6 months ago nothing crazy a mild cam and ported heads with a proper tune. But recently the torque converter took a **** so I decided to just pull the motor ta make it easy aswell upgrade some things on the motor. I got a bigger TSP cam and new pushrods with proper springs. Welp I got the motor back in and it’ll start than die after 1-3 seconds. My first thought was timing so I toot everything apart to verify and it’s in time. Since than I’ve tested to ensure proper fuel pressure, aswell as spark and both are good. Needless to say I’m atta loss and looking for some better insight.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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TECH Enthusiast
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if you have the ability to tune it, just increase the entire idle table by 300 rpm and up the base running airflow table by 50%. i've used that formula a bunch of times to get a cam'd engine to at least fire off and make sure its hitting on all 8.
note: i am NOT saying its properly tuned after that. at all. just that it should start and idle, and then of course you will need to make further adjustments to the fueling and timing to dial it in.
note: i am NOT saying its properly tuned after that. at all. just that it should start and idle, and then of course you will need to make further adjustments to the fueling and timing to dial it in.
See if the icon that looks like a lock is flashing on the instrument cluster after it dies and before you rotate the key to off. Scan pcm and see if it has any theft deterrent codes stored.
It would be unusual but things work till they don't!
It would be unusual but things work till they don't!
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2024
Posts: 17
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if you have the ability to tune it, just increase the entire idle table by 300 rpm and up the base running airflow table by 50%. i've used that formula a bunch of times to get a cam'd engine to at least fire off and make sure its hitting on all 8.
note: i am NOT saying its properly tuned after that. at all. just that it should start and idle, and then of course you will need to make further adjustments to the fueling and timing to dial it in.
note: i am NOT saying its properly tuned after that. at all. just that it should start and idle, and then of course you will need to make further adjustments to the fueling and timing to dial it in.
all righty I’ll pull up the logs and adjust some
stuff. Also gunna ensure VATs are turned off to ensure that’s not it.
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Like OP, I've also put bigger cams in engines with a factory tune, and they still started and ran.
Probably the LS1 as a Longblock with the Truck Intake and DBW Throttle Body.
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Teching In
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Thread Starter
Teching In
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Teching In
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Update for all I’m starting to think something’s up with the heads… went over my tune again and everything is right even Re-Wrote it to ensure it wasn’t corrupted. Same effect starts for a second or few and dies no matter. Also when it doesn’t start it will randomly pop and when you let off it’ll idk how to put it other than this. It’ll quief? Maybe valves or pushrods are sticking?only reason I’m really questioning the heads is when the motor was originally put it it was retarded 3 degrees. Needless to say valves and push rods were took out in that case. Heads were rebuilt and the truck ran. So could the valve guides and pushrod holes be fucked up enough to not allow it to run? Hope that all made sense.
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and yes queef 😭
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So this going to sound bubba to the max. Back to my idea the throttle blade isn't opening enough to let it run. Again super bubba but take a piece of round wire maybe a 1/16" to 1/8" diameter making it long enough to prop the throttle blade open a bit. Again make it long enough so you can bring out of the throttle body so it doesn't get sucked into the engine and fasten it to something. Start the engine and see if it helps.
Replacing the crank sensor typically means the exhaust manifold has to come off.
As said above I'm not buying into the heads being an issue. Pull the valve covers and see if everything is moving up and down as it should as you crank it with the plugs out.
Replacing the crank sensor typically means the exhaust manifold has to come off.
As said above I'm not buying into the heads being an issue. Pull the valve covers and see if everything is moving up and down as it should as you crank it with the plugs out.