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Has anybody seen this before on rod bearings? Thought it was kind of interesting. Engine only had 83,000 miles when it was pulled from a van. I’m not sure what would cause these marks on the connecting rod bearings, I was extremely careful when disassembling and removing. Crank looked great as well as all other bearings.
The only way those indentions were put there is from either assembly or disassembly. Either way, I wouldn’t worry about them.
Your going back with new bearings I’m ASSuming, or else you would not have tore it down.
I tore down an 80k mile engine once that looked perfect. I still use those 80k bearings today for my corner height mock-ups. They are perfect.
The only way those indentions were put there is from either assembly or disassembly. Either way, I wouldn’t worry about them.
Your going back with new bearings I’m ASSuming, or else you would not have tore it down.
I tore down an 80k mile engine once that looked perfect. I still use those 80k bearings today for my corner height mock-ups. They are perfect.
The only way those indentions were put there is from either assembly or disassembly. Either way, I wouldn’t worry about them.
Your going back with new bearings I’m ASSuming, or else you would not have tore it down.
I tore down an 80k mile engine once that looked perfect. I still use those 80k bearings today for my corner height mock-ups. They are perfect.
I dont think I could have caused the damage. It always appears on the cap side. I broke both bolts loose, slide the cap off and then put it on a table. I am not sure how I could have created this indentation
So you’ve got a couple choices. Either go back with these bearings that have the odd indentions and do show a little wear…or order a new set of Clevites and put all the wonder behind you. I’d recommend the latter.
So you’ve got a couple choices. Either go back with these bearings that have the odd indentions and do show a little wear…or order a new set of Clevites and put all the wonder behind you. I’d recommend the latter.
which standard clevite rod bearings do you recommend? Please provide part number
which standard clevite rod bearings do you recommend? Please provide part number
It’s really hard to beat the clevite p series bearings. But I will tell you this from experience. Just because the bearings are standard, doesn’t mean you’ll have the correct bearing clearance. Best bet is to measure your main and rod journals. Make for certain that they are indeed within standard specs. Then measure your main and rod bores with bearings installed and caps torqued to factory specs. Then compare the two to make for certain that your clearances are proper. Too tight, and you’ll ruin the bottom end. Too loose and you’ll have oil pressure problems. I errored on the side of too tight my first go around, and spun a rod bearing. Crank and one rod were toast. So now I’m in the process of rebuilding the bottom end of a used engine. It took me 3 sets of main bearings to get the proper clearance. I ended up going with an X bearing set to get an extra .001” of clearance. It only took me two sets of rod bearings to get the proper clearance. I ended up with the rod bearings I posted a picture of above.
As mentioned, the 663 for rods and 2199 for the mains. I like the H bearings which work for both aftermarket and stock LS cranks. I keep them in stock here and I know what my clearances will be with the H, by measuring the crank journals. I still check everything with a dial bore gauge. I’ve done this a time or two…
I’ve got an engine going out the door to Washington state, I completed a couple weeks ago. Here’s my mains for reference. The Clevite stuff is very accurate. Most guys don’t measure out .0001….
1. .00245
2. .00245
3. .00244
4. .00244
5. .00244
Thats endurance racing level quality. It helps that my machinist uses CNC machining for everything in the shop.
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Rod Bearings with interesting markings 
