I'm putting together a 5.3 Vortec with a reman longblock, new water pump, new radiator and hoses. It's a clean slate.

What is the best antifreeze for a "new" engine. I had good luck with the OEM Dexcool, however, I see that there is a component called 2-EHA that can cause problems.

Anyone use PEAK Titanium in an LS?

 

Yes, what is this magical juice I can put in my radiator to help the engine run cooler? This is LS1 tech. Let's have some science coolant which one's your favorite. Why? What about additives? Good bad who knows?

Can you tell I'm looking to replace my coolant with something cooler?

 

I put the green stuff in my builds. I like Peak because it’s easy to find here. There are a lot of threads about this subject in Tech.

 

I have always just used Prestone Dexcool. No issues.

 

I use peak final charge pro series in all my stuff

 

No need to overthink it just grab some green stuff and put it in

 

I switched to Dex cool when GM did LOL. Anyhow, It's my understanding that pure water without any coolant would actually cool the engine marginaly better is this true? However, without the chemical additives there'd be no protection For the engine so That being said, has anyone seen a cooler running engine in the summertime with a leaner mix of coolant?

 

Just use dexcool. It only gets a bad rep from people that don't ever change it.

 

It’s true. it’s no secret that I was privileged to be a part of an R&D shop in the early 90’s. Cup teams farmed out their work in those days. Several top teams payed us crazy money to find them power. We sold an engine to Leo Jackson in Aug of 91’. He put it in his car as an owner, and Harry Gant won every race in September of that year…4 in a row. I can’t speak on a lot of stuff due to de-briefing and legal confidentiality stuff. I will say that we found distilled H2O to out cool any Glycol based concoctions on the market at that time. The basic formulation hasn’t changed much at all in 30+ years. Additives don’t add much to the equation to help. Raising the boiling point is a different topic altogether, which Glycol can and will do…removing heat from the chamber is the current discussion.
On the topic of removing heat from the chamber, yet somewhat off camber here…keeping heat IN the chamber EFFICIENTLY and PURPOSELY is the goal of modern endurance builders and coatings are becoming more and more exotic in this area. Coated valves, chambers, domes, rings, are helping make advances in power by effectively controlling thermal energy.

 

Thank you for the information I need to look elsewhere for heat managing strategy so now you got me thinking about using the ignition advance to help reduce heat buildup without giving up to much power at part throttle mid/light loads The OE programs generally run significantly more advanced at part throttle than wot and I've always left my cammed stuff close to the same way or even advance it further to help maintain lower speed throttle response, I may try reducing the timing below the converter stall speed to see how it reacts?

Edit*

So I was thinking about this and I think I answered my own question because I realized when I make runs that aren't as aggressive and I'm spending more time at part throttle, I'm using the extra advance and the engine doesn't build added heat, It's only on The harder it runs where I'm spending the most time at wot that the heat gets concerning. So it's the timing under load then that needs addressed?