Good day. I hope all is well with everyone. I'm currently planning my LS build. I have a LM7 that Im swapping into a 350z.
Plans for rebuilding the engine:
New gasket set
Cometic head gasket
Btr rocker with upgraded trunion
Either 600" beehive springs or 660" dual valve springs
Hardened pushrods
LS7 lifters
Fast LSXR 102mm intake and throttle body (dbw)
SUM 8707R1 cam
DIY head port (factory 862 heads)
Melling high pressure oil pump
Arp head bolds
Stock gen 3 pistons and rods (with increased ring gap)
( I want the engine be capable of revving up to 7500rpm but i plan to stay aroun 7000rpm)

Transmission:
CD001 gearbox (for now)

ECU:
Haltech elite 2500

I plan to run N/A for now as i practice tuning the car myself ( did tuning course but never tuned a car myself, only started a few cars). Hope to make between 350-400rwhp. Then slap a single 7875 later on after i aquire all the parts needed to turbo and after im comfortable with tuning. I hope to make around 500rwhp with boost+pump gas+meth and 600-650rwhp (maybe even 700rwhp) with boost+c16.

Im testing my skills with this build. It will be a daily driver and it will see the track. We have a 1/8th mile here.

Anybody that's done this same setup or similar setup or even the experience members could tell me what you think about the build idea. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.

 

It sounds like a really kick *** build! I can't comment on the valvetrain part of it with 7k rpm, but I really like your plan with Haltech and DIY tuning & especially that you have already done a tuning class. You are going to have a really rewarding experience once you get hands on the ECU and playing with it. That first engine start with it on the Haltech is going to be a high five kind of day. Fun!

My only suggestion would be to run the engine before you build on it. Possibly you already have run it, but doing so could save a TON of headaches.

Hope to see updates! Good luck!

 

I appreciate the response, I really wish i could have ran the motor before stripping it a buddy of mine got the motor out of a client's truck for a blown head gasket. they swapped the engine one time and asked him to dump it so i got it from him. After stripping it and inspecting it the engine seems to still be in good condition so that's why I just decided to rebuild it one time. we swapped the motor on another sierra truck for the same reason and i kept that one to. seems to be blown head gasket as well but i haven't strip that one as yet to see if any other damages was done. if that one is good i might just swap gen 4 pistons, rods and crank in that one and shoot for all little more hp with that.

 

Use BTR head gaskets. Cometics are overkill. I make upwards of 700 RWHP in my 5.3 and use BTR small bore LS9 style gaskets. That's all you need. Source your valvetrain parts from BTR. Don't mix and match, and do not buy "cheap" LS7 lifters. I regularly see 8K with my BTR LS7s. Just get a set of BTR platinum springs with Ti retainers. I have them in both of my cars. Your RPM goals are pretty lofty for a rebuilt stock bottom end. GM puts them together really well, but once you disassemble and redo everything, it can never be put together the same. You may want to consider at least doing a piston/rod combo. I'm running a Summit ProLS piston/rod combo with a stock crank and couldn't be happier with it.

 

AHA, I would add a Wegner water pump and some of my IGN-1A Ignition Coils (local sekkers in your area)

 

The 8707 is a pretty big cam for a 5.3L daily driver. If you want to use a summit cam, go with the 8715 ghost cam.

Personally, I think you can go even smaller with the btr hot rod cam. 217/23x, .618, 605, 114 or very close to this If I recall correctly.

If you are set with an intake duration over 220, then ghost cam, or btr red hot cam which has similar lift to the hot rod but is 221/24X. If you want to go even higher lifts for all out top end, btr stage 2. I think it is .636, 636.

 

Nice. appreciate the info. I will check BTR for those parts. I do have a question. I was looking into the summit ProLS piston/rod combo. Did you get your rotating assembly balanced?

 

lol thanks. I do plan on investing in some ign1a coils but that will be more for the spare block. As for the water pump im not sure what a wegner water pump cost or what the spacing is. i was looking into the corvette or ctsv water pump for the spacing in the 350z engine bay.

 

Steve Morris Engines does all my machine work. When he spun my crank up to balance it for the Summit ProLS pistons and rods, it didn't need any weight whatsoever. That's not saying another crank might not need something, but @Summitracing has done a good job getting the weights close to stock.

 

Nice info will look into these cams as well. I'm assuming when u say 618, 605 is the lift of the cam. i want to know if i would have to do piston to valve clearance check with it. also the reason why i looked at the SUM 8707r1 cam was because of a cam test Richard Holdener did with the summit stage 4 cam ( I think its the sum8709r1 cam). i liked the how it hanged around peak torque from 4600 rpm to 5800 rpm (a more usable torque). But because i wanted to drive it on the street i dropped down to the stage 2. Originally i was looking at the stage 3 (SUM 8708r1), but i was like " hey your in unfamiliar waters don't get carried away". I wanted my peak torque to be further up in the rpm. Like i said I'm new to v8 so this was just a theory i had, ( i could be totally wrong with what I'm thinking) but notice that peak torque is usually be between 4000-5000 rpm and i see that v8s leave the line great but get pull in up top so i was thinking so i was thinking it was because peak torque happens so early and drops off as you continue through the rpm.

 

Unfortunately i don't trust the machine shops we have here to do something like that. I don't think they have the proper machines to do that. I live in The Bahamas. i would have to fly over and do all of that. I"m not prepared to do that at the moment with this motor. This one is just for me to practice tuning and getting the car on the road. Now the spare motor I want to do all that on. Hopefully by then I'll already have my home. But i will do some more research on the piston/rod combo to see if i can find more info on the weight. If they are similar and I can get them I might take the risk and throw them in without balancing. I would just do more frequent oil changes and inspect the old oil for any metal shavings.

 

@Dr Rolle,

You have received some solid advice from the community. We are on the same page with what @Abs is thinking for camshaft selection.Our SUM-8715R1 Ghost Cam would be a great fit for your combination and goals. Specs are .600/.575, 222/234, 115+3 with -2* of overlap. It gets its name from the smooth, near-stock idle, yet it performs right alongside most stage 2 cams on the market.

This cam has excellent street manners and works well for daily driving. It still packs a punch and will happily pull past 7,000 RPM when you want to lean on it a bit.


Based on your RPM goals, we would recommend the following supporting parts.
Springs: SUM-174005 - .630" lift beehives
Pushrods: SUM-14917400 - 11/32" with a .120" wall Chromoly (Recommended to measure for pushrod length before purchasing pushrods)
Lifters: SUM-HTLSKIT3 - Morel 7717 Drop-ins and new trays
Timing Chain: CMB-09-0029 - LS2 chain with cam change gasket set
Timing Chain Dampener: TFS-K30675600 -TrickFlow Timing Chain Dampener with adapter bracket
Camshaft Retainer Plate: SUM-150106

There are always more "while you're in there" parts, but this list is a solid starting point and will support your cam choice well.

We'd love to see the SUM-PR367807 Pro LS piston and rod combo in this as well. It's more than capable of handling your goals. That said, we couldn't guarantee the rotating assembly wouldn't need rebalancing.

Let us know if we can be of any further assistance. We'll be happy to help!

 

Rollie, have you ever raced at Dover?
My ECU, Coils on a Drake 4cyl (N/A) driven BY Jerrald Roden.
The First session ( Data Logged) was SLOW, Jerrald STATED "no power-junk engine".
Next, I stood in the MIDDLE of MANY of his friends, they were laughing at ME!
I then opened the D/L on the Laptop screen and READ the TPS Voltage (position report)
The THROTTLE was ONLY at 1/4 opened.
The GROUPE then turned to Jerrald and Laughfed.
We won the championship that year in Jamaica

 

Can anyone of yall suggest a machine shop to balance the rotating assembly... some that does great work???

 

Where are you located? I’m sure we can help you out….