Low Oil Prseeure after cam install
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See also related thread: https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/201415-cam-install-do-my-heads-need-come-off-i-think-my-shop-dicking-me-around.html
So after all this my oil pressure is running a lot lower than it used too. It's about half way between the red mark and the 1st line (40psi?) at idle) It used to run just a hair under that 40psi marker. Should I be concerned?
Thanks all.
So after all this my oil pressure is running a lot lower than it used too. It's about half way between the red mark and the 1st line (40psi?) at idle) It used to run just a hair under that 40psi marker. Should I be concerned?
Thanks all.
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Don't assume, ask. They don't have to remove the oil pump to change the cam, if they removed the pump and now u have low oil psi, i'll bet that your o-ring is chewed up and letting some air in and you need a new one. If they re-used the stock oring that is bad too if you ask me.
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it may not be ticking but the o-ring is your problem. First, ask them for a list of parts they used or else look at your receipt. Assuming the o-ring isn't on there, ask "was there anything at all that you installed for gaskets or anything that's not listed?" That way, when you tell them they should have replaced the o-ring, they can't say "oh uh, we did" Even if it's not torn or anything, a new one needs to be used. check out the pics I posted here
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/201761-attention-cure-ticking.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/201761-attention-cure-ticking.html
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They did not remove the oil pump. They did change my oil and used 10W30 instead of the 5W30M1 I always use, but 10W30 woul dmake it run higher not lower. Could they have bumped the sensor when changing my intake causing it to read differently?
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yeah, the sensor in back could be cracked but still on there, it works like a button, here are some pics of a broken one that we did this weekend:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/201593-what-did-we-break-off-my-friends-98-ss-while-doing-ls6-intake.html
And you need the special socket to get it off/on. It's $6
-Steve
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/201593-what-did-we-break-off-my-friends-98-ss-while-doing-ls6-intake.html
And you need the special socket to get it off/on. It's $6
-Steve
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I'm not sure WTF is going on, but my idle oil psi is dropping. It now runs at ~10psi. It was running at about 17 psi. Is there any way to tell if that O ring is messed up without pulling the oil pump?
I am so frikin pissed off for taking my car to these *******.
I am so frikin pissed off for taking my car to these *******.
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I hate to say it, but you need to stop driving it until you figure this out. Everything I've seen says you need a MINIMUM of 10 psi per 1000 rpms. 10 psi at 800 is way too close for comfort. It would suck to turn a small oil problem into a big engine rebuild. No, there is no way to check the o-ring without disassembly. Was the car still running fine last time you drove it? Does the pressure only drop to 10 at idle but then come up to 40 with a little blip of the throttle? Does the oil pressure come up with the revs? Does it come up to 40 on a cold start and then go down as the oil warms up and thins out? Are there any irregular sounds coming from the engine / valvetrain? Drain your oil and look for any metal shavings or metalic streaks. This kind of info will help you get some answers. If you haven't decided already, cut your losses with that shitbag shop and go to speedinc. That place is just gonna dick you around because they KNOW that now matter what, their not gonna be able to make you happy after they've fucked up so bad. Don't let them touch your car. Definitely drain your oil and look for metal or streaks. Maybe look at those pics of the oil pressure sensor and then reach back with your hand and see it it's loose or else just tell speedinc your situation and ask them to help you figure out your oil pressure problem. 10 psi is TOO low! I wish I lived near speed. I order most of my stuff from them and they are cool as hell. I placed an order a couple weeks ago on a sunday morning and I got a confirmation email from a rep a couple hours later who was working on sunday!
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Originally Posted by kenkaru
I hate to say it, but you need to stop driving it until you figure this out. Everything I've seen says you need a MINIMUM of 10 psi per 1000 rpms. 10 psi at 800 is way too close for comfort. It would suck to turn a small oil problem into a big engine rebuild. No, there is no way to check the o-ring without disassembly. Was the car still running fine last time you drove it? Does the pressure only drop to 10 at idle but then come up to 40 with a little blip of the throttle? Does the oil pressure come up with the revs? Does it come up to 40 on a cold start and then go down as the oil warms up and thins out? Are there any irregular sounds coming from the engine / valvetrain? Drain your oil and look for any metal shavings or metalic streaks. This kind of info will help you get some answers. If you haven't decided already, cut your losses with that shitbag shop and go to speedinc. That place is just gonna dick you around because they KNOW that now matter what, their not gonna be able to make you happy after they've fucked up so bad. Don't let them touch your car. Definitely drain your oil and look for metal or streaks. Maybe look at those pics of the oil pressure sensor and then reach back with your hand and see it it's loose or else just tell speedinc your situation and ask them to help you figure out your oil pressure problem. 10 psi is TOO low! I wish I lived near speed. I order most of my stuff from them and they are cool as hell. I placed an order a couple weeks ago on a sunday morning and I got a confirmation email from a rep a couple hours later who was working on sunday!
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I am going to send Larry at Speed inc a note today, and see what he says. I'm sure they are booked for the next 3 weeks, but it's worth a shot.
Last edited by 6shifter; 08-11-2004 at 10:34 AM.
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Gotta agree with the others, it's definitely not right, and it doesn't have anything to do with the type of oil they put in... the oil will not effect your pressure that much. Taking it to a professional that deals with our cars on a regular basis is a good idea at this point, even if you have to wait a little bit... definitely don't go back to those hacks that put your car together in the first place.
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Well, speed inc will definitly be able to help you more than anything else I can say on the internet. Good luck with everything and just think, it's a few weeks break for your car and you won't be putting any mileage on it, so that's good. Don't forget to reduce your auto insurance coverage to just theft/fire/vandalism since you prolly won't be driving for 30 days.
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There is one more possiblility that nobody's mentioned (that you do not want to hear). Low oil pressure is often caused by a bad cam bearing. It could be they buggered one during removal or installation. So if the oil pump is OK.....
If it makes you feel better, I forgot to install my oil pump o-ring when I did my swap, and the car had 0 oil pressure. It runs like **** that way.....all the lifters collapse.
If it makes you feel better, I forgot to install my oil pump o-ring when I did my swap, and the car had 0 oil pressure. It runs like **** that way.....all the lifters collapse.
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I have secured sanctuary within the confines of Speed Inc.'s capable bays on Aug 25th. They are going to procure me the LS6 intake, and figure out WTF these ******** did to mess up my oil psi. Until then... I have my Vette.
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You know, there is something to be said for large displacement, and exhaust fumes that rise up just next to your head at the stoplight. Although I do miss the TA, at least I have something for my fix in the interum.
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Well, a month later... my car is ready. I am picking it up tonight. They broke the oil sending unit, which is why I was showing 10psi at idle. This is something the mechanic must have known he did, and failed to be upfront about it. They changed my coolant to Dexcool, and refilled my AC. They should be strapping it on the dyno as I pull into the lot!!!
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Update....
So I thought I would share with you all who this shop is, and how my car ended up.
Well, with my mods (see sig) I would say that the Weiand Lingenfelter intake made more power. I don't have the dyno results to prove this, but by my *** gague, it made about 10 more ponies than the ls6 intake.
With the cam, and intake I gained a net 15hp to the rear wheels according to the dyno sheet. I think they had the carpet bunched up under the gas pedal or something. a cam and intake should net at least 25 hp to the rear, regardless. I started with a max of 332 RWHP and ended up with 347 RWHP. Respectable, but I really expected more.
As for the shop. After picking up the car from all this work, I noticed that they scratched the **** out of my front bumper (just repainted a year ago. I took ot to get buffed out, but one of the scratches will not come out. I'm not happy.
Anyway to make a long story short, never take your F-body to STREET STUFF in ADDISON, IL. They have no frikin clue how to treat a customer, take care of your car, or research the correct techniques for performace mods. If you have a POS beater and want to have the oil changed... this is the place for you. If you guys from street stuff are reading this... I hope you learned something, because you lost a customer from it.
Happy Holidays all.
So I thought I would share with you all who this shop is, and how my car ended up.
Well, with my mods (see sig) I would say that the Weiand Lingenfelter intake made more power. I don't have the dyno results to prove this, but by my *** gague, it made about 10 more ponies than the ls6 intake.
With the cam, and intake I gained a net 15hp to the rear wheels according to the dyno sheet. I think they had the carpet bunched up under the gas pedal or something. a cam and intake should net at least 25 hp to the rear, regardless. I started with a max of 332 RWHP and ended up with 347 RWHP. Respectable, but I really expected more.
As for the shop. After picking up the car from all this work, I noticed that they scratched the **** out of my front bumper (just repainted a year ago. I took ot to get buffed out, but one of the scratches will not come out. I'm not happy.
Anyway to make a long story short, never take your F-body to STREET STUFF in ADDISON, IL. They have no frikin clue how to treat a customer, take care of your car, or research the correct techniques for performace mods. If you have a POS beater and want to have the oil changed... this is the place for you. If you guys from street stuff are reading this... I hope you learned something, because you lost a customer from it.
Happy Holidays all.