How far should the balancer be seated?
TECH Resident
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 922
Likes: 1
From: Lexington Park, MD
Originally Posted by hourang
yeah like i said keep checking with the old stock bolt to see if you can thread it in, once you can, stop using the longer bolt.
I did my first install using the bolt method.. It worked, but after removing the stock bolt once it was seated, I noticed more metal shavings than I would have liked to see...
Man, all these hard installations makes me wonder if mine I did 2 weeks ago is O.k. I put a little oil on shaft and pushed pulley on enough for the old stock bolt to turn a couple times.Then used a normal sized 1/2 inch ratchet to push it the rest of the way.No grunt at all till the torquing part. For that I think I used a torque wrench that went to 150 lbs. and made it click.Then put new bolt in and went 37 fl/lbs then could only get another 100 degrees. The back of the pulley was about the thickness of a medium washer from the timing cover.So far no problems.
JAy
JAy
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario
Originally Posted by ls14jay
The back of the pulley was about the thickness of a medium washer from the timing cover.So far no problems.
JAy
JAy
If it is, I might just say screw it and go back to stock for now to ditch the KR.. then maybe send my pulley to ASP so they can check it.
It's NOT a balancer. The crank is internally balanced. It sounds like you don't know what your doing if you are boiling a crank pulley and then still have to beat on it to get it on. I usually save the boiling for mudbugs, swimps and crabs wit a whole lot of Zatarains. Why don't you just freeze dry the crank and put the pulley in the oven at 350 for an hour. Take the pulley out of the oven and quickly put it on the snout of the crank. It should jump onto the crank by itself after you go to all that troulble. Seriously tho, if your having that much trouble you should STOP and reevaluate what your doing and thank God for LS1Tech. You better stop beating on that pulley straightaway. The idea of the threaded rod for you guys that have this problem is a real good one. A 120X16X2 bolt works too, but if you have troulble getting the pulley on or off you should stop and check your work. This pulley moves very slowly going on and off so don't expect it to just slide right on quickly. That doesn't happen. Take your time and do it right. The pulley stops moving when the pulley snout bucks up against the front face of the oil pump gear/ cam drive sprocket. When the two of them kiss each other the torque value suddenly skyrockets to MAX. You stop at 240 lb and your done if you have enough *** to turn a wrench that hard.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Auistin, TX
Install balancer The best method I have found is all thread with a thrust washer and nut. The LS1 balancer should not be driven on. The all thread will allow full thread enguagement of the threads in the chank allowing all the force to be on the nut and thrust washer.
The distance on will stop solid when it is far enough on.
The distance on will stop solid when it is far enough on.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 29
Likes: 0
From: Kitchener, Ontario
Originally Posted by eallanboggs
It's NOT a balancer. The crank is internally balanced. It sounds like you don't know what your doing if you are boiling a crank pulley and then still have to beat on it to get it on. I usually save the boiling for mudbugs, swimps and crabs wit a whole lot of Zatarains. Why don't you just freeze dry the crank and put the pulley in the oven at 350 for an hour. Take the pulley out of the oven and quickly put it on the snout of the crank. It should jump onto the crank by itself after you go to all that troulble. Seriously tho, if your having that much trouble you should STOP and reevaluate what your doing and thank God for LS1Tech. You better stop beating on that pulley straightaway. The idea of the threaded rod for you guys that have this problem is a real good one. A 120X16X2 bolt works too, but if you have troulble getting the pulley on or off you should stop and check your work. This pulley moves very slowly going on and off so don't expect it to just slide right on quickly. That doesn't happen. Take your time and do it right. The pulley stops moving when the pulley snout bucks up against the front face of the oil pump gear/ cam drive sprocket. When the two of them kiss each other the torque value suddenly skyrockets to MAX. You stop at 240 lb and your done if you have enough *** to turn a wrench that hard.
What should I do now.. crank the pulley down harder with the bolt that's already there? Remove it, then install another new bolt with the 37/120 treatment?
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Verdad Gallardo Teching In
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 36
Likes: 0
From: Auistin, TX
Crank Pully I do not believe you should use a bolt. You need the correct tool or some all thread that will screw into the crank to full depth. Then use a washer and nut to pull the crank pully to place.
I believe a bolt may damage the threads in the crank. When you pull the pully down with a bolt the threads in the crank take all the load. If the all thread is fully seated in the crank and the threads are not turning then the load will be on the threads of the nut and the all thread. If either of those is damaged they are easly replaced.
Good luck!!!
I believe a bolt may damage the threads in the crank. When you pull the pully down with a bolt the threads in the crank take all the load. If the all thread is fully seated in the crank and the threads are not turning then the load will be on the threads of the nut and the all thread. If either of those is damaged they are easly replaced.
Good luck!!!
TECH Regular
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Raleigh, NC
Just use an Impact!! Thread the bolt, run it down till it stops. Take the bolt back out, and then tighten to 37ft/lbs and then another 120 degrees, or do what I did and use the impact again! Which is exactly what the guys at tech support hinted at doing when I talked to them. Those torqe specs and degrees come from GM. If you want to cuss along with way trying to go by GM specs go ahead, or do it the other way and get it on the road
