hourang

iTrader: (6)

yeah like i said keep checking with the old stock bolt to see if you can thread it in, once you can, stop using the longer bolt.

98blackSS

It's a preference thing I guess.. I wouldn't use the stock bolt to pull on the pulley simply because of so many stripped out crank stories that I've seen on here.. If you insist on using the stock bolt, make sure you use common sense and make sure there are enough threads (not just a couple) gripping in the crank to properly pull on the pulley.. Using a threaded rod or the proper install tool is the way to go because you first thread in the tool with your fingers and then let all the pulling force happen on the tool instead of on the crank threads..

I did my first install using the bolt method.. It worked, but after removing the stock bolt once it was seated, I noticed more metal shavings than I would have liked to see...

ls14jay

iTrader: (6)

Man, all these hard installations makes me wonder if mine I did 2 weeks ago is O.k. I put a little oil on shaft and pushed pulley on enough for the old stock bolt to turn a couple times.Then used a normal sized 1/2 inch ratchet to push it the rest of the way.No grunt at all till the torquing part. For that I think I used a torque wrench that went to 150 lbs. and made it click.Then put new bolt in and went 37 fl/lbs then could only get another 100 degrees. The back of the pulley was about the thickness of a medium washer from the timing cover.So far no problems.

JAy

NightRiderWS6

Hey.. I've been having some Knock retard problems ever since I installed my ASP crank pulley.. mine is roughly the same gap from the timing cover.. is that a normal distance? I followed the specs pretty close, but I was thinking I might try and reseat the pulley all over again just to make sure it is on deep enough.. if my pulley isn't that might be cause false KR.. anyone verify that about half a medium washer length is okay?

If it is, I might just say screw it and go back to stock for now to ditch the KR.. then maybe send my pulley to ASP so they can check it.

ShiznityZ28

iTrader: (11)

I heat the snout up with a torch .then slide er right on. i never had a problem tqing it down. you guys are nansy boys!

eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

It's NOT a balancer. The crank is internally balanced. It sounds like you don't know what your doing if you are boiling a crank pulley and then still have to beat on it to get it on. I usually save the boiling for mudbugs, swimps and crabs wit a whole lot of Zatarains. Why don't you just freeze dry the crank and put the pulley in the oven at 350 for an hour. Take the pulley out of the oven and quickly put it on the snout of the crank. It should jump onto the crank by itself after you go to all that troulble. Seriously tho, if your having that much trouble you should STOP and reevaluate what your doing and thank God for LS1Tech. You better stop beating on that pulley straightaway. The idea of the threaded rod for you guys that have this problem is a real good one. A 120X16X2 bolt works too, but if you have troulble getting the pulley on or off you should stop and check your work. This pulley moves very slowly going on and off so don't expect it to just slide right on quickly. That doesn't happen. Take your time and do it right. The pulley stops moving when the pulley snout bucks up against the front face of the oil pump gear/ cam drive sprocket. When the two of them kiss each other the torque value suddenly skyrockets to MAX. You stop at 240 lb and your done if you have enough *** to turn a wrench that hard.

David(TX)

The best method I have found is all thread with a thrust washer and nut. The LS1 balancer should not be driven on. The all thread will allow full thread enguagement of the threads in the chank allowing all the force to be on the nut and thrust washer.

The distance on will stop solid when it is far enough on.

NightRiderWS6

Heh heh... I didn't have any trouble throwing the bad boy on.. sounds like the gap between my pulley and the oil pump face isn't the way it's supposed to be. That's a good thing.. at least I know my pulley might not be the issue and it's just my own problem for not installing it far enough on..

What should I do now.. crank the pulley down harder with the bolt that's already there? Remove it, then install another new bolt with the 37/120 treatment?

David(TX)

I do not believe you should use a bolt. You need the correct tool or some all thread that will screw into the crank to full depth. Then use a washer and nut to pull the crank pully to place.

I believe a bolt may damage the threads in the crank. When you pull the pully down with a bolt the threads in the crank take all the load. If the all thread is fully seated in the crank and the threads are not turning then the load will be on the threads of the nut and the all thread. If either of those is damaged they are easly replaced.

Good luck!!!

NightRiderWS6

Good call man!

What size threaded rod would you use? I had a problem finding stuff that big around here

Cstick

Just use an Impact!! Thread the bolt, run it down till it stops. Take the bolt back out, and then tighten to 37ft/lbs and then another 120 degrees, or do what I did and use the impact again! Which is exactly what the guys at tech support hinted at doing when I talked to them. Those torqe specs and degrees come from GM. If you want to cuss along with way trying to go by GM specs go ahead, or do it the other way and get it on the road