derek_silvy

I boiled my balancer, and slid it on.... about this far: --
I've got a 2x4 and I'm placing it around the outside and whamming it with a mallet.

I need to know when to stop. Should it go all the way back, until it the arm of the pulley are almost all the way against the timing chain cover?

Tranzor

Seat it just far enough so the balancer bolt can grab good thread... don't need to go further than that.

derek_silvy

Man I've beat this thing about this far now: ------

So.... are you guys SURE I'm not gonna rip out the threads on the crank, because I tried turning it a couple times and its pretty darn hard to torque with my normal lenth 1/2 ratchet.

Thanks guys...
-derek

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

You need an 18" 1/2" breaker bar That will square the puley away pretty nice

derek_silvy

So, if say I've got 1/2 inch to go, and its darn near impossible to turn with just the ratchet, its ok to use a breaker bar to press the pulley on?

I got a 110 mm bolt btw, couldnt find a 120

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

Yes it is when the pulley finally stops moving you will have to torque it down to 240 ft/lbs with the old bolt adn then torque the new bolt to 37 ft/lbs +120* of rotation

derek_silvy

That's mighty scary man.....

I put my torque wrench on there and it clicked at 150 ft/lbs and while barely moving the pulley.

Mike K.

It is hard to turn, just to be safe take the pulley back off and make sure that you are seating it on straight, if you are not the crank should leave a nice little dimple in the pulley,


Once you do have it on straight it takes alot of leverage to get it seated properly.

HumpinSS

iTrader: (1)

150 ft/lbs add 100 more when i did mine i had my car on rhino ramps and had to put my foot on the lip of the rim to get the wrench to click.

02dirtybird

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure how much this can be recommended but I took the sprocket from the old timing chaing (the smaller one), turned it around so the teeth were towards me, mated the cylinder to the center of the pulley and hit it for about 30 minutes with the long side of a solid steel hammer (making sure not to hit the outside of the pulley). The gear is softer metal than the pulley so hitting it too hard with the hammer should hurt the gear rather than the pulley. That gave me enough threads to be able to thread in the old bolt and torque down. Make sure it is going on straight though (this is helped by the face you are hitting it in the center).

Went a couple of places and I could only find up to a 55mm bolt.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

um use a 1/2 wrench and a huge breaker bar on the longer crank bolt and keep seating it until you can reuse the stock bolt to seat it the rest of the way to 250ft/lbs. then remove the old crank bolt and put the new one in to 37ft/lbs and then turn it another 140degrees to stretch it on.

hourang

iTrader: (6)

oh and if you have a longer bolt why did you boil it and hammer it on?? i just put mine up there, put the longer bolt in and started cranking down, went right on.

98blackSS

You should NOT under any circumstances by hammering on the crank pulley...

Use a section of threaded rod with thrust washer and bolt or the correct install tool, not a stock bolt. You want the pressure to be on the threads of the thrust washer and bolt used to pull the pulley onto the crank snout, not the threads of the crank or the stock (or longer) bolt. I made an install tool myself and works rather well..

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

For all of you hammering your pulley on, I sure feel sorry for your one main bearing that has the thrust surface on it. You spend all this money replacing perfectly good timing chains, oil pumps, reusable gaskets all for peace of mind and then hammer your pulley on.

98blackSS

The main reason I used that little "eek" icon...

derek_silvy

Holy crap... I see all this about tapping it on, and now you guys say no?

So nomatter how hard I have to torque, stay at it?

hourang

iTrader: (6)

yeah i have a 3ft torque wrench called brutus, took 2 ppl to get it to 250ft/lbs. if it gets stuck at mid point i would back it out and let it sit and try again. the bolt that is.

marc_w

I used the handle off of my 4' Hi-Lift jack as a cheater bar over my breaker.

When I broke the bolt loose, it felt like I was twisting the end of the breaker right off. I was mad, until I realized I wasn't. It felt the same way torqing the new bolt down...

I hit my pulley with a propane torch, just getting it "pretty damn warm", and I was able to slide it on about 1/2 inch. From there I went with my longer crank bolt, which, with my crappy home-made washer was only able to get about three healthy turns in. It held just fine.

2xLS1

iTrader: (25)

IMPORTANT - CAPS LOCK ON PURPOSE. IF YOU ARE STILL USING THE LONGER BOLT, MAKE SURE IT HAS NOT BOTTOMED OUT IN THE CRANK. IF IT HAS AND YOU CONTINUE TO TRY AND TURN IT, YOU WILL BREAK THE BOLT OFF IN THE CRANK.

98blackSS

Generally during my installs I'll just use a breaker bar / *BAP and crank down on it until the pulley is seated.. You'll know when because it just won't go any further.. I don't think I've ever really hit the 250lbs.. That spec is just to make sure that it's seated. The 37lb/140deg procedure is what's important..

*Big *** pipe