JPR Tool from Thunder.......Against dowel rod
JPR Tool from Thunder.......Against dowel rod Well I am in the middle of putting my cam in the car and have read the LS1 how to on cam installs. It mentions the method of putting the lifters on the top of 2 pistons at a time and the one about the Thunder tool. Somewhere else I read about just using wooden dowel rod. Well I got the dowel rod and just 15 minutes ago slid it in to the hole. It didnt seem to be grabbing all the lifters this way. I am not all about taking the intake manifold off if I dont have to. I searched, but didnt see this directly addressed. Help?
Thanks
Brandon
Thanks
Brandon
taking the intake off will do no good because you wont be able to get to the lifters that way. to get to the lifters the heads have to come off.
when I did mine, I had some small 1/8" round magnets which I taped to the end of pencils. i put them in the pushrod holes and secured them with clothes pins. it worked awesome.
when I did mine, I had some small 1/8" round magnets which I taped to the end of pencils. i put them in the pushrod holes and secured them with clothes pins. it worked awesome.
Grabbing was really a poor choice of words. I understand what is supposed to happen, the rod or tool blocks the passage for the lifter and doesnt let it pass. My real question, is that will the procedure work with a dowl? If so, what size is needed. I am not going to go buy 16 magnets, thats just crazy.
Thanks
Brandon
Thanks
Brandon
you should re-name the title of your post to call in a few owners of the JPR lifter tool, so they can measure its width. then they can tell you exactly what size you need. to be honest dowel rods are cheap, guesstimate 3 sizes(if u can get a ride once yours is apart) and go to the local hobby store and buy all three, about 4 feet of each. should run you maybe 10 bucks. no biggie.
This works........get 2 X 24" long sections of 5/16 brake lines,bend 5" into an "L" and "oval" the 19" long sections in a vise.Spin the lifters up and insert the 2 19" long sections and turn them to tighten against the lifters,works like a charm.
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 508
Likes: 0
From: Bloomfield, NM
glennster's got it. for my install i got 2 5/16" metal rods about 22" in length and bent them at about 18" so i would have about a 4" handle. i ground a bullitt like tip on each end that was going into the engine and on the rod for the passengers side, i had to grind a flat surface the whole length of it for it to fit right. it worked like a charm for me, slid all the way in. i personally wouldnt use wooden dowels, i would be too afraid of one breaking inside. good luck!!
Originally Posted by God of Thunder
glennster's got it. for my install i got 2 5/16" metal rods about 22" in length and bent them at about 18" so i would have about a 4" handle. i ground a bullitt like tip on each end that was going into the engine and on the rod for the passengers side, i had to grind a flat surface the whole length of it for it to fit right. it worked like a charm for me, slid all the way in. i personally wouldnt use wooden dowels, i would be too afraid of one breaking inside. good luck!!
TECH Addict
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,620
Likes: 0
From: Central, MA
I had problems with my 5/16" rods in my 6.0 LQ9.
Passenger side went in smooth as butta up until the last four lifters. I heard of this happenning, so it wasn't a huge surprise.
My drivers side would not go in at all. With what I could "feel" by trying to insert the rod, the hole was oval shaped.
Now, back to the passenger side. With the rod in, I could still push the lifters down a fair amount. Not ALL the way down, but down enough to say "...what the hell?". If I removed the rod, I could push the lifters down another 1/8 or 3/16's to contact the cam.
I don't know what to think of that.
I have since taken a grinder to the rods and completely flattened one side of a rod for use on the drives side, and about 10" worth on the other for the passenger side. I'll see how that works on the next swap.
Passenger side went in smooth as butta up until the last four lifters. I heard of this happenning, so it wasn't a huge surprise.
My drivers side would not go in at all. With what I could "feel" by trying to insert the rod, the hole was oval shaped.
Now, back to the passenger side. With the rod in, I could still push the lifters down a fair amount. Not ALL the way down, but down enough to say "...what the hell?". If I removed the rod, I could push the lifters down another 1/8 or 3/16's to contact the cam.
I don't know what to think of that.
I have since taken a grinder to the rods and completely flattened one side of a rod for use on the drives side, and about 10" worth on the other for the passenger side. I'll see how that works on the next swap.
Thanks! 
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
From: Groves, Texas
I have some advice for this homemade Lifter-retaining rods. If you look closely at a JPR tool you'll notice about 1/3 the diameter is ground flat. I used 5/16 steel round-stock to fabricate mine. The flat side actually faces downward (exactly opposite the lifter angle). When making your bends for handle-stop take this into account. I bent mine where, when the flat angle was opposite the lifter angle, the handle faced straight down. I tried to insert the rods Flat-side toward the lifters and they wouldn't insert fully. I simply switched the rods from the other side and it worked like a charm. My point is that the flat part is needed for clearance of the block. Took some trial and error until I came up with a workable model. I believe 19 inches of length is needed to fully support the lifters.
This is most likely your problem.
This is most likely your problem.
i didnt even worry about measuring the length, just place it next to the new cam and bend it at the length of the cam. also grinding a flat edge the whole length of the rod was a must, could barely get it in otherwise.