solid roller vs hydraulic roller???
solid roller vs hydraulic roller??? I am going to build a 6.0L 408ci iron block...and I'm starting to try to put together a parts/pieces list so I can start purchasing and building the darn thing....
anyways...
just looking into the benefits/disadvantages of solid roller cam/lifters as compared to the hydraullic roller cam/lifters.
would a person see any advantages in a solid roller setup on a smaller cam... like say a 230/230 .595/.595 110lsa cam???
anyways...
just looking into the benefits/disadvantages of solid roller cam/lifters as compared to the hydraullic roller cam/lifters.
would a person see any advantages in a solid roller setup on a smaller cam... like say a 230/230 .595/.595 110lsa cam???
That is a small cam, you should take a look at TREX which is a hydrolic cam 242 248 608 610 110.
Solid roller cams are generally a lot bigger with fast ramp rates and allow you to rev higher without some of the valve float disadvantages of hydrolic setups.
You have to readjust your rocker arms every 500 miles with a solid roller. If you daily drive your car you probably don't want to go solid.
Solid roller cams are generally a lot bigger with fast ramp rates and allow you to rev higher without some of the valve float disadvantages of hydrolic setups.
You have to readjust your rocker arms every 500 miles with a solid roller. If you daily drive your car you probably don't want to go solid.
Originally Posted by term
That is a small cam, you should take a look at TREX which is a hydrolic cam 242 248 608 610 110.
Solid roller cams are generally a lot bigger with fast ramp rates and allow you to rev higher without some of the valve float disadvantages of hydrolic setups.
You have to readjust your rocker arms every 500 miles with a solid roller. If you daily drive your car you probably don't want to go solid.
Solid roller cams are generally a lot bigger with fast ramp rates and allow you to rev higher without some of the valve float disadvantages of hydrolic setups.
You have to readjust your rocker arms every 500 miles with a solid roller. If you daily drive your car you probably don't want to go solid.
Originally Posted by MyLS1Hauls
You definitely dont have to adjust the valvetrain every 500 miles with a solid roller....shoot you dont even have to do it that often with a solid flat tappet cam. You should easily be able to go 7500 street miles without having to lash the valvetrain. I wouldnt go solid roller unless you want to rev the motor pretty high and want to change valvesprings annually. Area under the curve is greatly improved with a solid roller lobe...they are more "square" than a hydraulic setup.
Originally Posted by term
Ok I was misinformed on that, I always thought that you had to adjust them much more frequently.
I dont mind having to do the lash every 7500 miles... I will more than likely do it every other oil change...or around 6000 miles total.... and I am planning on some lower lift cam with a set of patriot gold dual springs.... good to .650 lift..
I'm leaning towards solid roller(yes in my daily driver project car) with under .600 lift to help th esprings last a little longer... but I am prepared to change them as often as needed.....or pay a shop to do it if need be... and really I am thinking about a longer duration time because of the solid roller cam design....just not a huge lift so I can make springs last a little longer than a hard racing solid roller setup....
I'm leaning towards solid roller(yes in my daily driver project car) with under .600 lift to help th esprings last a little longer... but I am prepared to change them as often as needed.....or pay a shop to do it if need be... and really I am thinking about a longer duration time because of the solid roller cam design....just not a huge lift so I can make springs last a little longer than a hard racing solid roller setup....
Patriot Golds wont be stiff enough for a good solid roller cam. The lobes are so aggressive that they wont be able to control the valvetrain. Why do you want to go with a solid roller? The large peak lift allows the cam to have more "area under the curve" and if you start chopping that down, then theres very little benefit to going with a setup like this.
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Originally Posted by MyLS1Hauls
Patriot Golds wont be stiff enough for a good solid roller cam. The lobes are so aggressive that they wont be able to control the valvetrain. Why do you want to go with a solid roller? The large peak lift allows the cam to have more "area under the curve" and if you start chopping that down, then theres very little benefit to going with a setup like this.
If you're worried about spring life, then solid roller shouldn't be in your active vocabulary.
Seriously tho, solid roller kicks ***. You just gotta be willing to keep up with the maintenance that it demands. Thats why you don't see too many DD's with SR setups. The one's you do.....daaaaamn. And thats all I gots to say about that. LS1 Tech Stories
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Teching In
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 6
Likes: 0
From: TEXAS
Originally Posted by soundengineer
I dont mind having to do the lash every 7500 miles... I will more than likely do it every other oil change...or around 6000 miles total.... and I am planning on some lower lift cam with a set of patriot gold dual springs.... good to .650 lift..
I'm leaning towards solid roller(yes in my daily driver project car) with under .600 lift to help th esprings last a little longer... but I am prepared to change them as often as needed.....or pay a shop to do it if need be... and really I am thinking about a longer duration time because of the solid roller cam design....just not a huge lift so I can make springs last a little longer than a hard racing solid roller setup....
I'm leaning towards solid roller(yes in my daily driver project car) with under .600 lift to help th esprings last a little longer... but I am prepared to change them as often as needed.....or pay a shop to do it if need be... and really I am thinking about a longer duration time because of the solid roller cam design....just not a huge lift so I can make springs last a little longer than a hard racing solid roller setup....
If you wait too long you'll be replacing broken springs
here brandon, you'll learn soon enough 
well... I like the "Area Under the curve" side of the solid roller setup....
and I'm pretty sure I wont need to do every 500 miles on lash.....but I dont mind having to do it every oil change if necessary...
but I could use some advice on some dual springs that will hold up the longest...and how long to really expect on them...
and I'm pretty sure I wont need to do every 500 miles on lash.....but I dont mind having to do it every oil change if necessary...
but I could use some advice on some dual springs that will hold up the longest...and how long to really expect on them...
The springs I have had good luck with are "Isky tool room gold stripes". I have run these in the 24hr of Daytona gen 3's. Also just built a twin turbo solid roller gen 1 that ran the Dallas to Wisconsin power tour with no problems.
Also Gary Armstrong of ARE makes a gen 3 valvecover for me with spring oilers that will increase spring life and will clear Jesel rockers.
Kurt
Also Gary Armstrong of ARE makes a gen 3 valvecover for me with spring oilers that will increase spring life and will clear Jesel rockers.
Kurt
Originally Posted by soundengineer
well... I like the "Area Under the curve" side of the solid roller setup....
and I'm pretty sure I wont need to do every 500 miles on lash.....but I dont mind having to do it every oil change if necessary...
but I could use some advice on some dual springs that will hold up the longest...and how long to really expect on them...
and I'm pretty sure I wont need to do every 500 miles on lash.....but I dont mind having to do it every oil change if necessary...
but I could use some advice on some dual springs that will hold up the longest...and how long to really expect on them...
10 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 1,884
Likes: 4
From: H-town
Originally Posted by ponykiller511
How much do ya like getting dirty?
i would not mind haveing to adjust them. i pull apart my valvetrain once a month just to check everything already. also i have ran several soilds in the past on my previous daily driver for 4 years. its not really to bad. most of the time there still in spec and dont need adjusting. 