Generation III Internal Engine 1997-2006 LS1 | LS6
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Anyone have a "How To" for re-assembly of the block?

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Old 09-06-2004, 06:09 PM
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Take your time. When you decide to get it done let me know i would like to be schooled.
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Old 09-06-2004, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Toonz
Ok, I'm beginning to see the point, problem is, I'm not sure if any of the shops around here that have much LS1 experience. The shop that did the teardown and cleanup of the block has worked on a few, but I don't think they are experts by any means. Should I even try using them or ship it off to someone that knows the LS1 better? Thanks for all the advice guys.
Ship it to Futral. I believe he's the closest to you. No worries there if you send it to him.
Old 09-06-2004, 06:14 PM
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Or do what Gator did and drive all the way to Futral from Florida.
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Old 09-06-2004, 06:58 PM
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Houston is actually closer... 10 hour drive from here.... LA is a bit further. Either way, I'm gonna make some calls tomorrow and see what can be done, my car will be running before Thunder!
Old 09-06-2004, 07:40 PM
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Align honing these blocks and getting bearing clearances perfect can be a real bitch.

There is quite a bit involved.

Are you going with stock rotating or aftermarket?

Best of luck
Chris
Old 09-06-2004, 08:03 PM
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I say go for it. You should at least be able to do a better job than GM did with all the piston slap going around.
Old 09-06-2004, 08:09 PM
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I'm using the stock crank, rods, and pistons... everything else has been replaced.
Old 09-06-2004, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Toonz
I'm using the stock crank, rods, and pistons... everything else has been replaced.
Based on you're re-using all the same parts I'm guessing you didn't have any machine work done, did you?
Old 09-06-2004, 08:54 PM
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Nothing more than the cylinder's and crank being polished up some. Just wanted to clean it up and replace all the bearings/rings. Here is where it's at now...




Old 09-07-2004, 12:37 AM
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I was told by a known sponsor align hone is not often necessay for stock LS1 blocks. Anyway, I had my main bearing bore as well as decks checked and they did not need any work ( stock main bolts ).

How DIY engine job works is you go to a machine shop and say what needs to be done. This includes clearance specs, torque specs and bolts for stress and align hone, cylinder hone specs, balancing specs and of course the parts you're using. Then you do your best to verify the clearances using plastigauge or calibers and slap it together.

Quite simple using the Helms manual, nothing surprising there beyond torque and clearance specs, but in practice you're on machine shops mercy in setting up the clearances... unless you have good calibers and are willing to iterate in case the measurements are not ok, usually they are acceptable. Though, what I've watched on this board some ls1 shops seem to leave the bearing clearances loose to play safe and thus all the posts why is my oil pressure reading 20 at idle.

Toonz, you better have the bearing clearances checked or check them carefully if you already did not. If not it is likely you need new sets of bearings and more machine work to get to proper clearances. Get the Helms manual, though ARP bolts and most other aftermarket parts do have their own procedures. Beyond checking the clearances I would proceed to put it together, but it seems you still need to do some reading and you must be able to take the hit in case it goes wrong.

Last edited by pekkaz; 09-07-2004 at 06:45 AM.




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