quick oil pump o-ring question
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,667
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From: jacksonville, fl
quick oil pump o-ring question how many o-rings do you use on the pickup tube and oil pump. my kit has two o-rings in there?!? they are different color ones as well, and does it matter about which color to use?!? thanks in advance
daniel
and oh yea, one last question, not about the o-ring but the crank bolt. i just got a stock replacement for my stock pulley, how should i put the pulley back on?!? i was planning on gettin it seated with the old crank bolt and then torque down the new bolt and then do the 140*. any help is wanted thanks again
daniel
and oh yea, one last question, not about the o-ring but the crank bolt. i just got a stock replacement for my stock pulley, how should i put the pulley back on?!? i was planning on gettin it seated with the old crank bolt and then torque down the new bolt and then do the 140*. any help is wanted thanks again
Just one, the blue GM piece. And lubricate it before assembling to the pump housing so it's less likely to pinch and get damaged. And it seats on that first, topmost ridge on the pickup tube...looks like it's supposed to slide over it and rest between the ridge and the lower surface, but it's not.
I used moly assembly lube on my o-ring, just a light smear on the exterior surface after it was in place on the pickup tube.
As for installing the crank damper, the right way is a threaded rod, thrust bearing, and nut to pull it gently into place without stressing the crank threads. 2xLS1 used to sell a kit minus the bearing for relatively cheap, check w/ him. The wrong way is to use the crank bolt or a longer replacement to seat the damper...do a search on things like "how do I fix my crank threads" and you'll see why. It works sometimes, it doesn't work sometimes, not worth the price tag if it doesn't.
I used moly assembly lube on my o-ring, just a light smear on the exterior surface after it was in place on the pickup tube.
As for installing the crank damper, the right way is a threaded rod, thrust bearing, and nut to pull it gently into place without stressing the crank threads. 2xLS1 used to sell a kit minus the bearing for relatively cheap, check w/ him. The wrong way is to use the crank bolt or a longer replacement to seat the damper...do a search on things like "how do I fix my crank threads" and you'll see why. It works sometimes, it doesn't work sometimes, not worth the price tag if it doesn't.
Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 1,667
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From: jacksonville, fl
thanks alot man, thats all i needed to know! i have heard about the rod and everything, but i just dont know where to get one at?!? guess i'll do some shoping tomorrow! thanks again
daniel
daniel
For my first install, I bought the GM J-tool part# listed in the Helms manual for installing the front cover seal. $40 online at Kent-Moore or whoever. I added a $5 roller bearing from Sears, and used that to pull the damper into place, worked great. And then I sold it.
I bought a similar one for less $ from member 2xLS1 (I think) here on LS1tech and have it on the shelf for next time. Reallly simple, just a section of 16x2mm all-thread rod and a nut. Much lower possibility of damaging the crank threads than using a bolt, as the all-thread rod doesn't turn during installation of the damper, just the nut and bearing (if you use one).
2xLS1 got scorned and ridiculed when he started selling this kit, so he may have dropped it. Since then a few people have posted here having trashed their crank threads using a bolt.
I bought a similar one for less $ from member 2xLS1 (I think) here on LS1tech and have it on the shelf for next time. Reallly simple, just a section of 16x2mm all-thread rod and a nut. Much lower possibility of damaging the crank threads than using a bolt, as the all-thread rod doesn't turn during installation of the damper, just the nut and bearing (if you use one).
2xLS1 got scorned and ridiculed when he started selling this kit, so he may have dropped it. Since then a few people have posted here having trashed their crank threads using a bolt.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: jacksonville, fl
right on, i guess i will head over to the hardware shop now and see if they carry anything that size! thanks alot and if i cant find it then i will give 2xLs1 a email and see whats up with his kit! thanks alot
daniel
daniel
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: jacksonville, fl
do you happen to know where he got his all thread from?!? i just went to a couple of different places and none of them had any of it, only the standard not metric?!? so any help would be greatly appreciated
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 183
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From: Lewisville, Tx.
what are symptoms of a possibly torn or pinched o-ring? Will you lose pressure all together or could it just be somewhat lower? Like maybe 20 at idle with hot oil and not hitting psi enough under WOT (like maybe 52 at 6K?)
Changing out the oil pump and the o-ring fixed my problem, which was this:
At startup, everything was nice. Oil pressure was around 42 at idle, up to around 55 under load.
After a while in stop and go traffic, the pressure started to drop. Around 25 at idle, up to around 43 under load.
Things I tried:
Oil change from Mobil1 10W-30 to Castrol 0W-30 (gained a few psi)
Oil change from Castrol 0W-30 to Mobil1 0W-40 (gained a few psi)
Replaced oil pump and o-ring <----FIXED!
Pressure at idle is now 40-45, under load up to 60psi
-Mike
At startup, everything was nice. Oil pressure was around 42 at idle, up to around 55 under load.
After a while in stop and go traffic, the pressure started to drop. Around 25 at idle, up to around 43 under load.
Things I tried:
Oil change from Mobil1 10W-30 to Castrol 0W-30 (gained a few psi)
Oil change from Castrol 0W-30 to Mobil1 0W-40 (gained a few psi)
Replaced oil pump and o-ring <----FIXED!
Pressure at idle is now 40-45, under load up to 60psi
-Mike
