I have a broken piston ring in #5. I want to replace it with the engine in the car, just this one piston. Anyone done this? I know about dropping the K-frame to get the oil pan off. I have replaced the head bolts with studs, but now I have to fix this ring. Should I use a glaze breaker? Will the new rings seat? The engine has 20,000 miles and a Vortech Supercharger.

 

Has anyone repaired there engine this way?

 

i'm not going to say it can't be done because i'm sure someone can find a way, but I wouldn't even attempt it. I would be more difficult than just pulling the motor. I don't think the rod and piston will come out with the crank in the motor anyway.

 

Why would lugging around in 6th beat the motor up??

 

By lugging, I mean like climing steep hills, or hard passing @ 1000rpm in sixth (3.42 rear). When you feel the car bog down, you're supposed to downshift just as an A4 would. If you don't, you're stressing and to an extent, damaging the motor. The readings from your throttle position sensor tell the computer to add timing. If your motor stays at the same rpm while you're timing increases, you'll be over advanced and the ignition system will actually fire the plugs before the crank brings the pistons to the correct degree for firing. When you REALLY bog it down, the early combustion can actually try to force the pistons back down while the crank is trying to force them up-just as with pre-ignition/detonation. This beats the hell out of the entire rotating assembly.

 

Why would the crank have to be out? I am pulling the piston out thru the top with the head removed. I have done a few SBC but never a LS1.

 

I don't think it will come out the top. I took mine out the bottom just the way NoseUpChromeDown said he did. lift the motor up a little and put the oil pan. now my rod and pistons came out with the crank still bolted in place. But then when i saw the crank i had to do a total rebuild. But like you said if your just wanting to do the one piston ring that's up to you. But if my piston and rod came out with the crank still in place then yours should too. You just have to turn the crank over till it's outta the way of the one your pulling out. Easy enough.

 

Some of you would be amased at what all you can do with a floor jack, a few engine tools, and your own two hands. Though I do have some experience, I'm certainly not a liscensed mechanic. I rebuilt my entire engine without removing it from the car. An F-body no less... It just takes a little thought, enginuity, and PATIENCE. It's not a quick job, but if you take your time and think before you do, you can make it a smooth job.

Disclaimer: So I don't feel like a complete waste of oxygen if someone's finished project happens to throw rods in heavy traffic and causes a massive explosion killing a bus-load of nuns and school children...Perform any of this at your own risk. A machine shop would advise against an attempt because of the possibility of needed machine-work to bring your engine internals back to spec. Just because metal is hard, that doesn't mean it keeps its shape. Metal expands and retracts with heating and cooling. It sometimes sort of forms it's own shape after so many heating and cooling cycles. We're talking thousandths here (usually), but it wouldn't take much to tear up a new set of new bearings if parts are far out of spec. Disclaimer ended.

 

 

The piston will come out the top with the crank in the motor, I've taken #5 out before like that.