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Cleaning the block on a head swap!

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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 01:57 PM
  #21  
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If you use graphite gaskets they are less picky than the MLS ones so minor imperfections are not going to be a problem. Run a tap through the headbolt holes to clean out the trash, if you are going with headstuds then it doesnt really matter as long as the studs are in all of the way.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Why are you afraid to touch the pistons??
You mean this is your first H/C install, you go through all the pain you have, without experince, then you back off at the pistons??
They are not eggshells you know.
When I said that I didnt mean I would mess them up, what I ment was that I was pressed for time also. Gaskets and bolts get here this afternoon then i have to get the heads on and the car back together by saturday afternoon or so. I've done mostly everything by myslef with no air tools, so it's not easy, especially since it's my first time.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:01 PM
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Originally Posted by mach1
If you use graphite gaskets they are less picky than the MLS ones so minor imperfections are not going to be a problem. Run a tap through the headbolt holes to clean out the trash, if you are going with headstuds then it doesnt really matter as long as the studs are in all of the way.
I'm using stock GM gaskets I ordered through thunder. I don't know what they're made of. I'm using stock bolts aswell, so I guess I need to get the hols as clean as I can.

I thought you weren't supposed to use a tap?
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:02 PM
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What is happening Saturday?
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:03 PM
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My parents come back from Europe, lol.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by jermzz
I'm using stock GM gaskets I ordered through thunder. I don't know what they're made of. I'm using stock bolts aswell, so I guess I need to get the hols as clean as I can.

I thought you weren't supposed to use a tap?
Take an old bolt, grind it on opposite sides, then use that to get the threads cleaned.

BTW stock gaskets are graphite coated.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:07 PM
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Oh good, then I shouldnt have a problem

I ground down one sid eof a bolt and did that, wasnt working well...the same as a normal bolt...i'll try grinding both sides and see what happens...
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:11 PM
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Originally Posted by jermzz
Oh good, then I shouldnt have a problem

I ground down one sid eof a bolt and did that, wasnt working well...the same as a normal bolt...i'll try grinding both sides and see what happens...
grinding down both sides of the bolt would make it much like a tap but alot safer so I suppose that would be the better route, I always just use a tap but I also always deal with iron blocks so I guess im out on this one
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:22 PM
  #29  
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It is just that an old bolt has the "correct" thread pattern.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:34 PM
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I used a bolt with two sides ground down, but before I used it I cleaned it up with a thread file. Just make sure the threads look good before running it in the block.

Originally Posted by PREDATORZ
...then you back off at the pistons??
They are not eggshells you know
It's really not a good idea to start mucking with the pistons. You'll never get all of the carbon off and end up making a pattern that'll most likely cause you headaches...IMO.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by technical
I used a bolt with two sides ground down, but before I used it I cleaned it up with a thread file. Just make sure the threads look good before running it in the block.



It's really not a good idea to start mucking with the pistons. You'll never get all of the carbon off and end up making a pattern that'll most likely cause you headaches...IMO.

I took a wire brush to the bolt before i put it in the block... but it still seems to not be working well..maybe i'm just over worried about messing something up...ive had the bolt in and out of one hole now about 40 times and its still comming out with atleast some gunk on it each time...not much at all, but a little... i can see it when i wipe it on a clean cloth.

should i be torquing the bolt down too a little with a wrench?
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 02:50 PM
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There's a little trick that I use when I take the heads off. I don't take the bolts completely out, first I pull up on the head and let the coolant drop then remove the bolts in order to keep coolant out of the holes. Unfortunately there is still a rediculous amount of crap in those holes. Keep at it and get as much crap out of there as possible. I used compressed air for assistance, if it available use it. Don't worry about tightening the bolt, just keep running it in and out.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 03:05 PM
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Originally Posted by technical
There's a little trick that I use when I take the heads off. I don't take the bolts completely out, first I pull up on the head and let the coolant drop then remove the bolts in order to keep coolant out of the holes. Unfortunately there is still a rediculous amount of crap in those holes. Keep at it and get as much crap out of there as possible. I used compressed air for assistance, if it available use it. Don't worry about tightening the bolt, just keep running it in and out.
yeah, that's what i'm doing. I dont think it will ever come out without having 'something' on it though... i dunno. if i got 90% of it out is that acceptable? theyre definitly dry as a bone with just a small amount of crap in them that wont seem to dislodge itself and come out with the bolt.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 03:33 PM
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In my shop we forbid the use of any abrasives for cleaning gasket surfaces, this includes the very popular roloc discs. I got tired of buying comebacks caused by abrasives in the engine that didn't quite get blown out. Some guys will swear that they can get all that stuff out of the engine before reassembly but there is always a chance that some stray grit will get into the oil somehow. GM published a TSB on this subject a couple years ago that advised against using ANYTHING with abrasives.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 04:05 PM
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I think its a little late for that though Oscar... 90% Should be clean enough, I don't think there is any way to get it all out.
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Old Oct 14, 2004 | 05:41 PM
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Thanks bro, i feel really good now that one of the heads is already on.

so now im gonan have to deal with a blown motor or head gasket cause of metal shavings.
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 07:52 AM
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Just for reference on cleaning bolt holes,
I've also used a 14 guage hunting gun cleaning kit. Especially the cloth one.
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 11:54 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Just for reference on cleaning bolt holes,
I've also used a 14 guage hunting gun cleaning kit. Especially the cloth one.
LOL Good Idea.
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 12:59 PM
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Putting everything back together now.. :-D

do i need to heat cycle or anything for the new heads? break in im assuming is probably areond 500 miles, but do I need to do anythong on start up initially? What's the process?
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Old Oct 15, 2004 | 01:55 PM
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Well You need to heat cycle for the V springs a couple of times, and always allow the car to warm up thereafter before you get on it. good luck and have fun.
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