Cleaning the block on a head swap!
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From: Bay area, ca.
Cleaning the block on a head swap! Should I be getting the block more clean then this? I've been using gasket remover and 230 grit sand paper to clean off the graphite. It feels smooth to the touch, but you an still see some black here and there. Should I clean more, or no?
pics attatched.
thanks!
pics attatched.
thanks!
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Looks Ok,
I would go ahead and clean up those pistons a little, At TDC with a little scotchbrite.
Avoid overuse of the sand paper, especially between pistons. Also don't forget to clean the bolt holes dry.
I would go ahead and clean up those pistons a little, At TDC with a little scotchbrite.
Avoid overuse of the sand paper, especially between pistons. Also don't forget to clean the bolt holes dry.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From: Bay area, ca.
TDC?? is it easy to crank the motor by hand to bring each piston to the top?
Yeah, I was *trying* to not go overboard. I was thinking of going over the block with some 400 or 600 just to knock down the high stratches the sand paper left... you really cant feel them with your finger, a few of them you can just make out with the tip of your finger nail.
Yeah, I was *trying* to not go overboard. I was thinking of going over the block with some 400 or 600 just to knock down the high stratches the sand paper left... you really cant feel them with your finger, a few of them you can just make out with the tip of your finger nail.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Yeah, it's easy enough, that way you eliminate any hot spots from carbon build up. You can use GM top end cleaner, let it soak a little, then Scotchbrite. Don't forget to change the oil and filter after that.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Originally Posted by technical
Sandpaper? 
Use a razor blade. Be careful on those pistons. If you put a scratch in one, it's become a hot spot and cause pre-ignition.
Use a razor blade. Be careful on those pistons. If you put a scratch in one, it's become a hot spot and cause pre-ignition.
Do not use any metal items on pistons. Use a plastic scraper if necessary and Scotchbrite (without forcing it)
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 0
From: Fat Chance Hotel
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Razor Blade?
Do not use any metal items on pistons. Use a plastic scraper if necessary and Scotchbrite (without forcing it)
Do not use any metal items on pistons. Use a plastic scraper if necessary and Scotchbrite (without forcing it)
Blade on the block only, not sandpaper.
Personally I would leave the pistons alone, you're only asking for trouble.
I would also leave the pistons alone, I use a razor to get all the big stuff off then I go over it with a 3m roloc but the pics look pretty good IMO, I would spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe them down just to make sure there is no oil on the deck. Good luck!
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From: Bay area, ca.
Here's a couple more pictures ... close ones where I show places that have scratched that concirn me.
I did use a plastic ice scraper like the ls1howto states, but there was still a layer of graphite the scraper didnt get; hence the sand paper. Even used gasket remover with no avail.
I definitly didnt gouge the block, and all of the scratches you can't feel with your finger flesh. Just a couple you can scrape your fingernail down and barely barely feel the indentation. As long as that's ok I shouldn't have a problem.
Sorry i'm ****, this is my first head swap and I know this is the most important part besides cleaning the bolt holes of coolant and gunk.
Another question I had has to do with the plastick pieces bolted to the block above the cam gears... can I take those out and clean them of debris and just bolt them back in?
thanks for the tip!
As long as you didn't gouge the aluminum, you'll be ok. Think "scraper" next time
I definitly didnt gouge the block, and all of the scratches you can't feel with your finger flesh. Just a couple you can scrape your fingernail down and barely barely feel the indentation. As long as that's ok I shouldn't have a problem.
Sorry i'm ****, this is my first head swap and I know this is the most important part besides cleaning the bolt holes of coolant and gunk.
Another question I had has to do with the plastick pieces bolted to the block above the cam gears... can I take those out and clean them of debris and just bolt them back in?
I would spray some brake cleaner on a rag and wipe them down just to make sure there is no oil on the deck
TECH Addict
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 2,336
Likes: 0
From: Fat Chance Hotel
The deck looks ok. I do see quite a bit of aluminum shavings lying around. Make sure you clean all that up. You don't want that stuff in your engine. Make sure to change the oil.
The plastic parts are the lifter retainers. You can remove them, but I don't remember the torque spec for those bolts.
The plastic parts are the lifter retainers. You can remove them, but I don't remember the torque spec for those bolts.
a wet/dry vac is all ways a good move too. Go over the entire deck, pistons and lifter area to make sure you get any big pieces that you may have missed. I generally pour some fresh oil over the lifter area as well and put a thin coat on the cyl. walls once everything is clean right before the head goes on. Yeah, change the oil/filter to some cheapy stuff before you start it and then after you put some miles on it change back to your regular stuff. I also put some fresh oil on the rockers/springs right before putting the valve cover back on.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
Why are you afraid to touch the pistons??
You mean this is your first H/C install, you go through all the pain you have, without experince, then you back off at the pistons??
They are not eggshells you know.
You mean this is your first H/C install, you go through all the pain you have, without experince, then you back off at the pistons??
They are not eggshells you know.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,205
Likes: 0
From: Bay area, ca.
ok, I can do that... thanks!
as for these damn bolt holes... ive been just putting one of the old bolts in and out ...in and out... cleaning it each time to try to get the gunk out... the bolt is comming out pretty clean, but it looks like i can still see crap in there.. what can i do?
as for these damn bolt holes... ive been just putting one of the old bolts in and out ...in and out... cleaning it each time to try to get the gunk out... the bolt is comming out pretty clean, but it looks like i can still see crap in there.. what can i do?