Trying to get at least 400 HP
Hey guys, I was going to start hopping up my 2000 T/A this winter and would like to get at least around 400 HP or more. I'm more than likely going to do a heads/cam change and was just wondering if you guys think it's best to go with ported 5.3 heads, LS6, ported LS1, or aftermarket heads, I mainly want to keep it as cheap as possible but at the same time this is a daily driver so I don't want to really sacrifice durability too much. Also if you could give me some prices roughly of what the heads can cost and recommendations on a cam. Also, I will have quite a few bolt-ons but not headers. Any info is greatly appreciated.
Is there any reason why you don't want headers? They're really important to get before you go heads and cam, almost essential because you won't see anywhere near the gains you should if the motor can't breathe. Aside from that, I'd get ported 5.3's from one of our sponsors, they all do good work just depends on what you want to spend. As far as a cam, I suggest one of Futral Motorsport's cams. They make a lot of power in the midrange and retain stock driveability. The F11 is a good choice, very streetable and makes about 410 on cam alone. It's a 228/230 .581/.591 112LSA. But like I said, you should really invest in some headers, even if they are shortys.
headers are a must. you dont want to choke up the engine like that. you can find a nice set for a decent price. look at some pacestters maybe. for 400 rwhp you are going to want ALL the bolt ons, yes, headers included, and a nice cam. forget about the heads and get some headers, at least for now. and an ls6 intake maniflod towards the end. you wont see much of a gain on a sootck engine, but throw a cam in it and the extra flow will help a lot. i would recommend a futral cam as well, but i would go with the F13. a little bigger at 230/232 .595/.585, mine is on a 112, but you could get it on a different lsa. and is the car an a4 or an m6? if its an a4 i would recommend a higher stall as well. all that power will be alot better if you are in the power range more of the time. and dont think this will be cheap either. you are getting into an expensive hobby where you get what you pay for. search a little and read a lot and youll find what you are looking for. good luck. Bolt on a STS Turbo and you will easily make 400 rwhp. And you can do all of the work yourself. Heck, the install is so simple you can install it in your driveway.
Check out Angie's car here.
http://www.thunderracing.com/project...n=read&pgid=92
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/225013-sts-before-after-dyno-w-5-lbs-boost.html
H/C cars sound cool, turn heads, get lots of looks and make HP, but I just barely make 385 rwhp with an A4/Vig 3600 stall/3.73 gears unlocked on the Dyno. And I have every bolton and mod available. Even an electric waterpump.
But if I had to do it over again, I would have went with a turbo and saved myself about $7500. And my car would be driveable with a turbo.
I spent a ton on tuning my h/cam car so I can drive it (laptop, EFI Live, LSEdit, etc.) + $750 for two tunes (one lousy and another so I can now drive the car). The cost alone for these items above would nearly pay for an STS Turbo.
You can have a sweet driveable 450 rwhp turbo car or a gas stinking, poor idling, hood shaking, hard to tune surging h/c car.
Save the additional money you will spend on a h/c package and spend it instead on ET Streets or Nitto Drag radials, Moser/Strange rearend and Weld or Centerline line wheels. You'll need all of these items to handle 450 rwhp.
Just my humble opinion.
Check out Angie's car here.
http://www.thunderracing.com/project...n=read&pgid=92
https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-induction/225013-sts-before-after-dyno-w-5-lbs-boost.html
H/C cars sound cool, turn heads, get lots of looks and make HP, but I just barely make 385 rwhp with an A4/Vig 3600 stall/3.73 gears unlocked on the Dyno. And I have every bolton and mod available. Even an electric waterpump.
But if I had to do it over again, I would have went with a turbo and saved myself about $7500. And my car would be driveable with a turbo.
I spent a ton on tuning my h/cam car so I can drive it (laptop, EFI Live, LSEdit, etc.) + $750 for two tunes (one lousy and another so I can now drive the car). The cost alone for these items above would nearly pay for an STS Turbo.
You can have a sweet driveable 450 rwhp turbo car or a gas stinking, poor idling, hood shaking, hard to tune surging h/c car.
Save the additional money you will spend on a h/c package and spend it instead on ET Streets or Nitto Drag radials, Moser/Strange rearend and Weld or Centerline line wheels. You'll need all of these items to handle 450 rwhp.
Just my humble opinion.
Last edited by dlandsvZ28; Oct 18, 2004 at 12:22 AM.
Simple.. do what I did.. it will require headers though. All bolt ons, well just about all, I dont have a TB. Bolt ons + tr224 114lsa + tuning = my 397rwhp/385rwtq. Didnt even need heads and that cam is actually mild now a days so if you want more just grab a bigger cam. See my sig for more mod details.
Bolt on a STS Turbo and you will easily make 400 rwhp.
Yeah I have a M6 tranny, and also will I have to go and re-program the computer with the cam change, and also can I use the hypertech programmer with it to make even more power? sorry bout all the questions guys I know quite a bit about cars and can do all of it myself except the re-programming but I've never had any experience with the LS1's but now after owning one I got to say there incredible motors, quite powerful, awesome so far!!!
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Originally Posted by God of Thunder
headers are a must. you dont want to choke up the engine like that. you can find a nice set for a decent price. look at some pacestters maybe. for 400 rwhp you are going to want ALL the bolt ons, yes, headers included, and a nice cam. forget about the heads and get some headers, at least for now. and an ls6 intake maniflod towards the end. you wont see much of a gain on a sootck engine, but throw a cam in it and the extra flow will help a lot. i would recommend a futral cam as well, but i would go with the F13. a little bigger at 230/232 .595/.585, mine is on a 112, but you could get it on a different lsa. and is the car an a4 or an m6? if its an a4 i would recommend a higher stall as well. all that power will be alot better if you are in the power range more of the time. and dont think this will be cheap either. you are getting into an expensive hobby where you get what you pay for. search a little and read a lot and youll find what you are looking for. good luck.
Originally Posted by racinman123
Yeah I have a M6 tranny, and also will I have to go and re-program the computer with the cam change, and also can I use the hypertech programmer with it to make even more power? sorry bout all the questions guys I know quite a bit about cars and can do all of it myself except the re-programming but I've never had any experience with the LS1's but now after owning one I got to say there incredible motors, quite powerful, awesome so far!!!
yes you will need tune with your h/c and bolt on setup, and a real dyno tune with someone proficient in edit or HPtuner.
if there arent any reputable shops around your area or even in your general vicinity, TSP does mail in tunes where you ship them your PCM and a list of your mods and they will tune it for you. this is what i did as there isnt really anything in New mexico that does much for LS1's. but of course, a real dyno tune would be MUCH better. my car runs good now, but as soon as i get more done to it i plan to drive it to TSP for a real dyno tune.
Originally Posted by Avengeance
I believe the basic STS kit is only $4k or so...



