Machining for 382 stroker
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From: oxford, Michigan
Machining for 382 stroker Does the block need to be notch or anything for a 382 stroke? Also which cam do you guys recommend. I was thinking some where in the high 230's.
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You will need to notch your block depending on what rods you use. Callies=yes. Rod bolt heads (ARP) hit. Plus you will need to notch a piston for reluctor wheel clearnance if it isnt already done. Just put it together and spin it by hand...I had mine apart 5 times until I thought it was safe...used an air grinder for clearancing.
Core shift is an issue in LS1 blocks...might only hit on one side and not the other.
Mine is 242/250..wouldnt go any less...
Core shift is an issue in LS1 blocks...might only hit on one side and not the other.
Mine is 242/250..wouldnt go any less...
I had to notch all 8 cylinders for the L19 bolts in my Eagle rods (no big deal, air grinder here too). Even though my Ross pistons were "pre-notched" for the reluctor wheel, I still had to do a little additional grinding on #8 to clear, and very slightly on a couple of the other pistons (to clear the bobs on the crank). Also had to notch the oil pan, and space the windage tray. As for cam, a solid over 260 works great too. 
Had to do a little clearance with an air grinder on the bottom of ever cylinder with 4" stroke callies and eagle rods with upgraded arp bolts. I just use the washers that come with the arp main stud kit to space the windage tray a little. Had the crank together and apart a couple times to check clearance before a final cleaning and assembly. If idle isn't a big concern I would go mid-low 240's.
Originally Posted by 1984camaroz28
reluctor wheel clearnance ????
That's clearance for the crank trigger. The crank trigger is located right below the the number 8 piston when installed. On large strokes if you do not check this you could end up crashing the piston into the trigger wheel. That would lead to some serious piston damage.
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Originally Posted by 1984camaroz28
you have to notch the bottom of the piston??
I've never had to notch the block for a 4" stroke, but I've also never used Eagle rods with the L19 bolts.
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From: oxford, Michigan
Originally Posted by SAM98WS6
You will need to notch your block depending on what rods you use. Callies=yes. Rod bolt heads (ARP) hit. Plus you will need to notch a piston for reluctor wheel clearnance if it isnt already done. Just put it together and spin it by hand...I had mine apart 5 times until I thought it was safe...used an air grinder for clearancing.
Core shift is an issue in LS1 blocks...might only hit on one side and not the other.
Mine is 242/250..wouldnt go any less...
Core shift is an issue in LS1 blocks...might only hit on one side and not the other.
Mine is 242/250..wouldnt go any less...
I am thinking about a 238 242 609 612 112 or a 242 242
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From: harrisburg, pa
No sound clips but it sounds pro street
Everyone loves it.
I drive it every day its nice. Loads up a little sitting in traffic for some time...then you have to blow it out. Go at least that much...
Everyone loves it.I drive it every day its nice. Loads up a little sitting in traffic for some time...then you have to blow it out. Go at least that much...