How come there are so few 382's??
I'm trying to figure out if it's worth it to stroke the motor with H/C or just stick with stock cubes and H/C.
I'm trying to figure out if it's worth it to stroke the motor with H/C or just stick with stock cubes and H/C.
youve heard the saying, there is no replacement for displacement.
you WILL make power with more cubes, but plan your setup from the begining.
you need a good set of heads, the right cam, the right exhaust and intake etc.
people dont do it because the average person doesnt want to spend 2-4grand building up their motor at once.
Personally I favor the 382/383 cubes because of the weight factor and if properly put together, those combos are capable of over 500rwhp with plenty trq down below.
Also it has to do with the fact that a 382/383 needs machining of block for clearances and is usually in the same price range of an iron block that doesn't require a core.
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Eagle crank, Eagle H-rods with L19 bolts, Ross pistons. No dyno #'s yet, but the first track times weren't bad for no tuning time.
We literally got it running on a Thursday, loaded it on the trailer, and I took it to the Thunder Shootout on Friday. 
I would much rather have a few less horses vs a 408, than an additional 80-90 lbs on the nose of the car.
Eagle crank, Eagle H-rods with L19 bolts, Ross pistons. No dyno #'s yet, but the first track times weren't bad for no tuning time.
We literally got it running on a Thursday, loaded it on the trailer, and I took it to the Thunder Shootout on Friday. 
I would much rather have a few less horses vs a 408, than an additional 80-90 lbs on the nose of the car.
I weighed my car the other day and it came in 3640 with nobody in it and I have done some weight reduction (front/rear bumper supports removed, z06 rims, rear seats/setbelts removed as well as some various plastic peices, not to mention headers are lighter than manifolds etc etc. )with me in the car it weighs 3860 lol
In fairness I did add a 12 bolt and alot of nitrous equipment which also helps weigh the car down but all this plus the iron block and I got myself a pig.To compete at a track I will be forced to spend alot of money on even ligher rims, seats, k member/a arms , hood, and then I might even have to take out my comfort items like powe rsterring AC/heater core etc.
Now my block has been/is extremely durable but who is to say an aluminum one is not plus nobody has really experimented with a 383 to see what a max effort is. shoot nobody has really done a max effort 408 for that matter.
My car is running great with my stroker setup and I am forced to run cats! (see sig)
Should be in the 128-130mph range in the spring on motor.
No dropped sleeves to worry about, no added weight of iron, less expensive.

Chris
My car is running great with my stroker setup and I am forced to run cats! (see sig)
Should be in the 128-130mph range in the spring on motor.
No dropped sleeves to worry about, no added weight of iron, less expensive.

Chris
480rwhp
440rwtq
Daily driver 92 octane
383 Callies with LS1 heads
No extra weight with the iron
I think lots of people are happy having 550+hp 383s...
Personally I favor the 382/383 cubes because of the weight factor and if properly put together, those combos are capable of over 500rwhp with plenty trq down below.
Also it has to do with the fact that a 382/383 needs machining of block for clearances and is usually in the same price range of an iron block that doesn't require a core.
Thing is, this type of stroker is short on rpm capability, due to it's stroke /rod combo, it tends to put a lot more stress on the cylinder walls, reducing it's longevity and adding to the oil consumption factor in LSx motors.
For some application though like trucks or really heavy cars, this can be a trq monster ticket.
All this would mean a light rod, piston assembly which would cost mucho mucho dinero.
Not only is there more side loading there is also piston design compromises with the longer stroke. You are also limited in piston choice with the 4.125 stroke vs the 4 inch stroke setup.
I would stick with the 4 inch stroke. It tends to make a little more power in the 4500-7200rpm range and you also get a stronger piston that will better handle spray or FI.
My car will see the strip, but that is not what it is being built for. The highway is my focus
I guess you would have to lay a 346 dyno sheet over a 382 dyno sheet to see that there is more than a small difference in hp/tq. It's all about the powerband. From a 40 punch (or any speed) it would be no contest. That's my measure of speed lol. IMO, the cost of an Eagle rotating assembley is well worth the cost over stock cubes. Even though they are putting out crazy power nowadays. Not only is there more side loading there is also piston design compromises with the longer stroke. You are also limited in piston choice with the 4.125 stroke vs the 4 inch stroke setup.
I would stick with the 4 inch stroke. It tends to make a little more power in the 4500-7200rpm range and you also get a stronger piston that will better handle spray or FI.

Do you hear more piston slap noises because of the shorter skirt forged pistons?
Do you have more engine oil consumption compaired to stock ?
Are there any downsides of the 383 stroker other than high cost that you have learned from personal experience?
Thanks


That sounded anything but dissapointing to me.



