my car NEVER sees 60 psi oil pressure...
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All this talk about oil pressure has got me worried. After warm up my car idles at about 20 psi, cruises at about 40 psi, and at WOT never goes above about 55 psi. It's been this way ever since I bought it at 55,000 miles and now it has 79,000. The car is 100% stock internal, it's never been opened up at all. Is this going to cause a problem??? Thanks for the help.
Jeffrey
Jeffrey
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Read my thread I am having the same issues, seems my Oring on the pickup tube on the oilpump is bad... I'm on a different screen name too.
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...c;f=1;t=012382
https://ls1tech.com/ubb/ultimatebb.p...c;f=1;t=012382
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Are you sure its never been apart..
Yes than can wear out after time from what i hear, or if someone took it out for some reason they may have damaged it.
I picked up a new oring, it cost me $3.41 and www.ls1howto.com should help u with the removal of the oil pan.
Yes than can wear out after time from what i hear, or if someone took it out for some reason they may have damaged it.
I picked up a new oring, it cost me $3.41 and www.ls1howto.com should help u with the removal of the oil pan.
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Mine's about the same, but better at WOT. It's been like that since day one and it's a 98 also. I run Mobil 1 5W-30. Running 10W-30 might help a little.
When I had the engine apart and pulled the oil pump, the o-ring was fine, so I put it back on.
The pressure is the same before and after. The oil pump is crankshaft driven, so a A4 with a idle
of 750 rpms (like mine) will see slightly lower pressure than a M6 with a higher idle. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just make sure you're running 6 quarts of oil.
When I had the engine apart and pulled the oil pump, the o-ring was fine, so I put it back on.
The pressure is the same before and after. The oil pump is crankshaft driven, so a A4 with a idle
of 750 rpms (like mine) will see slightly lower pressure than a M6 with a higher idle. Honestly I wouldn't worry about it too much. Just make sure you're running 6 quarts of oil.
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I think you will find that the average oil gauge pressure for the LS1 is 40 psi (hot) idle and about 55 psi above 2,000 revs.
At least that is what I get with my ported Katech pump. Pretty close to the stock pump pressures.
If you have an internally tight engine that has never been apart; You may just have a low indication from either the sending unit or the guage. What was it like when new? Higher? I wouldn't worry at all about the pump O ring seal if the engine has never been apart.
Ron,
At least that is what I get with my ported Katech pump. Pretty close to the stock pump pressures.
If you have an internally tight engine that has never been apart; You may just have a low indication from either the sending unit or the guage. What was it like when new? Higher? I wouldn't worry at all about the pump O ring seal if the engine has never been apart.
Ron,
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Jeff, o-rings are definately not your problem. Yes they wear, but they do not cause pressure drops unless you tore one of them while installing something.
Your problem is that you have a 1998 oil pump. The most notorious for low PSI and failures. If I were you, i'd throw an LS6 pump in there pretty soon. ESPECIALLY if you're spraying, which requires more juice from the oiling system. LS6 pumps are cheap, and all you'll need. Most 01-02 cars hold 45 psi at idle and well over 60 at WOT. Thats plenty...
Mind as well swap a little split duration cam in there while you're at it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
josh
Your problem is that you have a 1998 oil pump. The most notorious for low PSI and failures. If I were you, i'd throw an LS6 pump in there pretty soon. ESPECIALLY if you're spraying, which requires more juice from the oiling system. LS6 pumps are cheap, and all you'll need. Most 01-02 cars hold 45 psi at idle and well over 60 at WOT. Thats plenty...
Mind as well swap a little split duration cam in there while you're at it. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="gr_images/icons/wink.gif" />
josh
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To give you an example of how the pressure sending unit can send a false signal, when I snapped mine and changed while replacing my intake,the oil pressure went from 30 hot idle and 48 wot to 55 hot idle and 70 wot with the new sending unit. This is with a Katech ported oil pump
<small>[ April 14, 2003, 06:45 AM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
<small>[ April 14, 2003, 06:45 AM: Message edited by: StevieZ ]</small>
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Damian:
<strong>
Your problem is that you have a 1998 oil pump. The most notorious for low PSI and failures.
josh </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">98 pumps are known for a high failure rate but the pressure is no lower. My 98 pump actually read higher pressure than my 2002 Katech pump.
<strong>
Your problem is that you have a 1998 oil pump. The most notorious for low PSI and failures.
josh </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">98 pumps are known for a high failure rate but the pressure is no lower. My 98 pump actually read higher pressure than my 2002 Katech pump.
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mine reads about 30-33psi at warm idle 50psi at cold idle around 40 at cruise and about 55 at WOT. but im not spraying or anything so i havent really worried about it. when i do a cam ill do a ported oil pump too. 10w-30 mobil 1 btw.
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Last oil changed I used Mobile 1 15w-50, and my oil pressure is about 40% higher. (I previously used 10w-30 but I wanted to try something different as the warmer weather approaches.)
My pressure at hot idle is 40, and cold is 70!
When I rev my engine up it always goes to 70...
Tommy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<small>[ April 14, 2003, 08:09 AM: Message edited by: TaTommyWS6 ]</small>
My pressure at hot idle is 40, and cold is 70!
When I rev my engine up it always goes to 70...
Tommy <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />
<small>[ April 14, 2003, 08:09 AM: Message edited by: TaTommyWS6 ]</small>
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my PSI is about 39-40 cruising and about 30 at idle. WOT its roughly 55ish I think. But mine's been like that since day one also. Even after cam it stayed the same. I still have stock chain and pump also cause knowing my luck if i slap in a new pump it would break <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />
i dont usually break anything unless i swap it for something better, so ive learned if it isnt broke dont fix it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
i dont usually break anything unless i swap it for something better, so ive learned if it isnt broke dont fix it <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Cool]" src="gr_images/icons/cool.gif" />
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Your pressure is fine but your choice of oil sucks....
Gen III ls1 engines are designed to run on synthetic oil. Synthetic does not need a lot of pressure as compared with non-synthetic.
ALL oils LABELED SYNTHETIC - EXCEPT MOBIL ONE, ARE DINO BASED AND SHOULD NOT BE USED!!!! Makers like Quaker State, Syntec, etc. went to court a few years back to permit them to label DINO oils synthetic. Unforntuately THEY WON!!!!! So DO NOT BUY ANY OIL EXCEPT MOBIL ONE - THE ONLY TRUE SYNTHETIC....
Gen III ls1 engines are designed to run on synthetic oil. Synthetic does not need a lot of pressure as compared with non-synthetic.
ALL oils LABELED SYNTHETIC - EXCEPT MOBIL ONE, ARE DINO BASED AND SHOULD NOT BE USED!!!! Makers like Quaker State, Syntec, etc. went to court a few years back to permit them to label DINO oils synthetic. Unforntuately THEY WON!!!!! So DO NOT BUY ANY OIL EXCEPT MOBIL ONE - THE ONLY TRUE SYNTHETIC....