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Old 11-29-2004, 12:18 PM
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Default dry sleeve

im thinking about picking up a dry sleeve block from rapid motorsports. im going with a 4.100 bore. from what all the supporting vendors told me i will not have a problem with dry sleeve setup if i stay NA wich i plan on. also has anyon ehad a problem with the ARE drive sleeve setup?
Old 11-29-2004, 12:23 PM
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I see nothing wrong with dry sleeves on a NA car just as long as the machine shop maintains a .0025 interference fit on the sleeve and uses structural adhesive.
Old 11-29-2004, 12:40 PM
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rapid motorsports sells ARE sleeved blocks how good are they?
Old 11-30-2004, 09:49 AM
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IMO, they are no weaker than a wet sleeve.

I have a 4.100 bore ARE 5.3 L block with forged internals, and plan on spraying a 200-300 direct port this spring.

ARE makes a great block, they have run 8.5x on a re-sleeved aluminum block.
Old 01-18-2005, 11:53 AM
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I've got a 4.125 dry sleeved block, supposedly done using the ARE technique. The sleeves sit .0075 or so above the deck. Anybody know if that's how it is supposed to be?

John Parsons
Old 01-18-2005, 11:55 AM
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No, should be smooth with the deck.
Old 01-18-2005, 12:07 PM
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Figures. It's just one of a dozen or so problems with the shortblock I bought from Le-Toy Motorsports.

jp
Old 01-18-2005, 02:37 PM
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I wouldn't automatically say that is wrong. There is something call a stepped deck (had it when my Honda block was resleeved) in which the sleeves sit higher than the rest of the block. I don't know how much higher they are supposed to be, but they could've done this intentionally as it aids in headgasket sealing.

Ben

Originally Posted by parsonsj
Figures. It's just one of a dozen or so problems with the shortblock I bought from Le-Toy Motorsports.

jp
Old 01-18-2005, 03:12 PM
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They are all sitting high, between .006 and .008 out of the deck. Supposedly done using ARE's technique. Anybody know for sure? I'd call ARE, but I'm thinking this is proprietary information.

jp
Old 01-18-2005, 04:06 PM
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Go Darton.....
Old 01-18-2005, 05:05 PM
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Rapid is carrying darton mid blocks now. I have had the darton MID block, but crappy assembly at JD's retired it early. Now I have the ARE version in my car and it seems to work fine, at least through 1200 miles and a couple trips to the track.
Old 01-18-2005, 08:32 PM
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Originally Posted by JS
Go Darton.....
i whould not waste the extra money on the wet sleve setup unless going F/i there are many people on the board runing a dry sleve block with no problems. As BO and almost all supporting vedors will tell(atleast they told me If u plan on a N/a setup or a small n2o shot a dry sleve setup will be fine. As long as the person (place new what they where doing u will have no problem
Old 01-18-2005, 10:37 PM
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For the extra coin I'd opt for the Darton...
Personally I'll wait and get the 7.0 LS2 block and build my own 389
Old 01-19-2005, 03:09 PM
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thats gona be alota extra coins...and people still havr had problems with the wet sleve
Old 01-19-2005, 04:21 PM
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I doubt its a ARE block, they are always decked and never did many 4.125 bores other then a handfull or two... Your block has to be decked.
If anybody needs a dry sleeve setup let me know.
Old 01-19-2005, 04:31 PM
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The 7.0 block bare is gonna be under 1500.00 and it wont drop a sleeve.
I'll wait for that and build anything from a 387 to a 436
Old 01-19-2005, 04:42 PM
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I forgot to mention I can get custom LS2 blocks dry-resleeved for 4.200 bores.




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