Aluminum 402ci build questions...
11-30-2004, 10:54 PM
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Aluminum 402ci build questions... Ok, correct me if I am wrong here:
4" bore, 4" stroke and 6.125" rods is 402c.i.?
Assuming that is correct, would it be safer to run a resleeved and bored LS1 block for that bore, or use the new LS2 block? There oesnt seem to be much info in safe wall thickness vs boring available for the LS2, so thats something for me to consider. If I cant bore the LS2 block but .010 over, then when its time for a rebuild I'd be assed out, where as a resleeved LS1 block will give me room for future growth!
Also assuming that combo above is correct, what problems might I encounter with a rod vs stroke ratio of 1.53xxx if the ideal is to stay above 1.55? Reduced bore finish, ring sealing issues... Or is it so close there shouldnt be much if any issues. I have read thru the long stroke thread but not real descriptive for differences in ratio.
TIA,
Charlie
4" bore, 4" stroke and 6.125" rods is 402c.i.?
Assuming that is correct, would it be safer to run a resleeved and bored LS1 block for that bore, or use the new LS2 block? There oesnt seem to be much info in safe wall thickness vs boring available for the LS2, so thats something for me to consider. If I cant bore the LS2 block but .010 over, then when its time for a rebuild I'd be assed out, where as a resleeved LS1 block will give me room for future growth!
Also assuming that combo above is correct, what problems might I encounter with a rod vs stroke ratio of 1.53xxx if the ideal is to stay above 1.55? Reduced bore finish, ring sealing issues... Or is it so close there shouldnt be much if any issues. I have read thru the long stroke thread but not real descriptive for differences in ratio.
TIA,
Charlie
11-30-2004, 11:24 PM
#2
Using a LS-2 block will be no diffrent than building a 382 for the LS-1 block. You'll be able to run that bore/stroke angle all day long with no problems. If you buy the LS-2 block, boring or honing is the same as a LS-1 block. You can do a safe .010" hone and that's prolly it. Assuming you buy the block new, you should not need to do anything to it. If anything it may need a light hone, but that is doubtful. So, start out at a 4.00" bore, run it for howerever long, and if you decide to rebuild it, just remove what is needed. If you only have to do a hone to get things right, just do that. There is no need to remove the max .010" right off the bat. As long as you don't do anything detrimental to the pistons, I don't see why you wouldn't be able to rebuild it quite a few times if needed.
11-30-2004, 11:36 PM
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I am used to the older Gen II taking .030 off during the rebuild, just cause it was "standard" I guess.
I wouldnt want to take it any over 4 if not needed. But I would have it all checked at a competent machine shop to void any issues. Not sure, but dont think they use a torque plate at the factory? But as mentioned, to avoid any potential "down the road" issues rather have it all machined/checked first, makes for easier troubleshooting too if something wasnt right.
So that is the right bore, stroke and rod length correct?
Time to start piecing things together I suppose!
I wouldnt want to take it any over 4 if not needed. But I would have it all checked at a competent machine shop to void any issues. Not sure, but dont think they use a torque plate at the factory? But as mentioned, to avoid any potential "down the road" issues rather have it all machined/checked first, makes for easier troubleshooting too if something wasnt right.
So that is the right bore, stroke and rod length correct?
Time to start piecing things together I suppose!