Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I couldnt specify in the topic starter/name that Im looking for low 11 sec./high 10 sec. cars because it wouldnt fit. Looking for the times under 11.50, preferably closer to 11.00s.

choppin-suey

iTrader: (6)

my bad, I guess your looking for tinned can, minimum p to v clearence cam cars that are spinning there stock bottom ends to 7000 and up

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

Actually Im not. I am certainly not running a striped car nor do I wanna spin my motor past 6600 rpms. Race weight roughly 32XX lbs. and looking for a cam for myself that peaks around 6300-6400 rpms.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

You might want to look into the F14, it certainly makes the power and doesn't need you to spin into the 7k range. Peaks around 6350. Sounds like what you're lookin for. Unfortunately, w/your requirements, you're not going to get the "ultimate drag cam", cuz thats what the T-rex was designed to be. And look at that monster, it works well in a 408

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

The T-Rex is probably the ultimate drag cam, but requires 6900-7000 rpm shift points. Where did you see that the F14 puts down good numbers and peaks at 6350?

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

Unless you spend alot of money on light weight parts 3200 is a tin can.

There aint a cam out there thats gonna get you to 10's in a 3300 lb car shifting at 6400.

N20 is your friend.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

Well, most of FMS' cams come w/4* advance ground in them. F13 usually peaks around 6200, so F14 should peak around 6400. So give or take 50rpms, my bad. I was thinking of the F13 112 +2 w/the 6350 peak. This is all info I'm taking from the F13 vs F14 thread in this same forum I'm torn between these two cams currently, after much research.

hc_performance

iTrader: (4)

yea N20 is your friend until your fuel solenoid decides to quit working during the middle of a run

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

ATVracr, I have spent a lot of money on light weight parts, but still dont consider my car a tin can. (chromoly-lower control arms, panhard bar, torque arm, rear sway bar, upper and lower a-arms, sub-frame connectors, and if BMR offered a chromoly k-member, I would of gotten it in chromoly) All my suspension is from Spohn except my a-arms, k-member, and relocation brackets which are BMR. I even spent the extra money and got a Wolfe chromoly roll bar. Anyhow, never said 6400, its 6600 that I'll be shifting at with a 6900 rev limiter. I dont know my weight but hopefully the next time that I have it out, I will weigh it. Im still running full interior except for the passenger side seat and rear seats. Still have a/c, heater, and all power. I dont wanna run nitrous. My car is set up for all motor. (Yank PT4400/4.10 gear)

cyphur_traq, youre looking for a cam too?! Youre goals and setup isnt the same as mine is it?

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

You left the AC in and take the seats out? Taking the seats out is tin canish around here (flame suit on).

Even with those parts I dont think your going to get you anywhere close to 3200 lbs.

At 3350 (prolly closer to your weight than 3200) I think your gonna need to spin it to 7000. to run in the 10's

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

BeaSSt, no my goals are nowhere near yours. I don't care what list I end up on, I just want a fun cam to play with for now that will make some great usable power and will be well complimented with a decent set of heads. I am planning on a new motor in a year(unless funds become available sooner), hence I'm more focused on building up the rest of my car right now than my current motor. I'll prolly throw Katech rod bolts in and call it a day with this one. Run her til I get the new motor. I don't see the strip too often at all, so I'm not real worried with pushing her past 6500. Going to give Allan a call in a few weeks and see what he has to say about it all.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

I know, Ive been debating whether or not I should take out the a/c and heater, but not sure if I want to. I do occasionaly drive it on the street and I sure would miss the a/c in the summer or heater in the winter. Wait...I forgot, I live in Alvin (Houston), Texas, it dont get cold around here.

Here is a list of what I have removed:

(Going off weight reduction list)

ABS-Billingsley ABS delete block
air dam
front bumper support
rear bumper support
sound deadening
catback
cats
crossmember brace/tunnel brace
cruise control
EGR & hardware
AIR pump & hardware
floor mats
grill insert
heat shielding
passenger side seat/bracket
rear seats
all seat belts
replaced driver's side w/Kirkey aluminum Pro Drag racing seat
power steering pump, pulley, and idler pulley
spare tire & jack
front sway bar & brackets
washer fluid pump
washer fluid reservoir
wiper arms
wiper motor
Bogarts all the way around
Denny's chromoly driveshaft
Hawker battery
Hals in all 4 corners
and Im running a 200-4R tranny which saved me some weigh there as well. It weighs around 100 lbs. dry.

SidewayzOZ

iTrader: (11)

Why dont you just have rod bolts put in and spin the motor up? Sounds to me like you got a drag car there...want 10's? Get a huge cam and spin the motor, if you arent willing to do that then tough luck, run an 11. Sometimes you just cant everything you want in life...Everything you have asked for is basically already contained in Rodney's cam only list.

cyphur

iTrader: (10)

I'm gonna have to agree with ya man. Sometimes **** just is the way it is. Smokin01TA is @10.70 w/the T-Rex and his car is ALL record right now, built totally towards that goal in mind. Are you tryin for a 10.99? Or do you want the record? Anything less than a monster cam won't get you the record, might as well be racin on hopes and dreams.

ATVracr

iTrader: (5)

That my friend is a tin can like it or not

And I'm with the other guy put rod bolts in it and spin it to 7000, hell its a race car why not.

Dragaholic

iTrader: (180)

cyphur_traq, Im not looking to break the record because that wont happen with my race weight nor not being able to shift past 6600 rpms. Im just looking for a 10 sec. time slip. (10.999 would be fine to me )

ATVracr, I dont consider it a tin can compared to a lot of other cars. I have taken a lot of stuff out, but by no means is it striped. I dunno, I guess its striped in my opinion when all the interior is out. The reason why I dont wanna upgrade the rod bolts is because I dont wanna pull the motor. To do it correctly, the motor must come out. Im not sure Im ready for all that work yet.

SidewayzOZ

iTrader: (11)

If those are your goals then youre wasting your time asking people on here how it can be done because it hasnt. Either go out and prove us all wrong or be satisfied with 11 seconds. I'm not trying to be a jerk just telling you the way things are.

redrocketls1

my car is a no option factory car... jw if that makes it a tin can? i pulled the rear seats out so the nitrous line and blow down tube can go thru where either of them are.. pulled spare tire and jack out and she'll prolly wiegh 3410 this time with me n her... i wiegh about 165.. hardly a tin can tho.. and i think with something like a f13 i can go 11.30-11.50 not be far off the pace, and drive a good sounding car to the track and back 2hrs each way if i want! if u want a very streetable 10 second car, run a slightly smaller cam then these huge cams, then just add a lil spray!!

SMOKIN01TA

iTrader: (10)

there two ways to run 10's cam only and you have eliminated both of them, plain and simple. id recomend a new strategy if you just have to have a 10.x.
but what would i know about that 10sec quest, took me 6months after the cam was in to finally break that mark after changing out different parts, tuning, suspension, and weight removal you see all our results but you dont see how hard it really is to get there. not sure how many hundereds of hours i have in this car but if i got paid for every hour i have worked on her i could build another one for free.

x phantom x

iTrader: (14)

I agree with pretty much everything that has been said here.

Building a fast car requires alot more effort then most people think (myself included up until a year or so ago). Just throwing a big cam in your car will not make you go fast, everything else needs to be setup to support it. You need the air/fuel/suspension/rear-end/transmission etc upgrades to go along with it. Even after you have all of that, it could be completely wrong for the cam you decide to go with (wrong stall, wrong gears, wrong exhaust, etc). It's alot harder and more time consuming then most people think.