Which MTI cam?
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From: San Angelo, TX
Which MTI cam? I screwed up and posted this in external engine so i moved it here.
Now that MTI has the bad *** deal on head/cam package im probably going to do it. I had planed on getting the TSP 231/237 or the TSP 233/239. but i cant pas this deal from MTI so what cam should i do?
G1 228/232 .588/.575 113lsa
X1 230/227 .591/.571 112lsa
R1 232/236 .575/.578 114lsa
Y1 234/240 .598/.608 113lsa
The cam i really hear alot of people using is the X1. not sure if i want a reverse split? this will be a daily driver but i want it to be a "ground pounder" Maybe the R1 orY1 is what im looking for. anybody have experance with these cams? how well do they tune for street duty?
Now that MTI has the bad *** deal on head/cam package im probably going to do it. I had planed on getting the TSP 231/237 or the TSP 233/239. but i cant pas this deal from MTI so what cam should i do?
G1 228/232 .588/.575 113lsa
X1 230/227 .591/.571 112lsa
R1 232/236 .575/.578 114lsa
Y1 234/240 .598/.608 113lsa
The cam i really hear alot of people using is the X1. not sure if i want a reverse split? this will be a daily driver but i want it to be a "ground pounder" Maybe the R1 orY1 is what im looking for. anybody have experance with these cams? how well do they tune for street duty?
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From: San Angelo, TX
Originally Posted by SouthFL.02.SS
I'd go with the Y1.
There's only one Y1 post that I know of, but I was very impressed with what I read about it.
There's only one Y1 post that I know of, but I was very impressed with what I read about it.
i was talkin to the boys at mti...im also taking advantage of the head/cam package. the word is, with a cam as big as the y1, u will almost certainly need to fly cut your pistons for clearance.....cuz the valves dont open straight down...they come down at an angle, so u need the extra room. but heres an idea for u, im having dave custom grind a cam for me from comp...dave wont charge u a penny more for it. its written right on the page. custom grinds at no extra cost. im in the same boat as u, i wanna go as large as i can without having ptv clearance issues. i will probably go with a single pattern...maybe slightly split around a 230 or 232 duration, with maybe .590 to .595 lift. and im gonna get it cut on a 114 lsa for idle quality. i dont wanna go over .600 lift cuz i dont think i could sleep well at night knowing what my clearance would/would not be 
. so anyway, just thought id give u a heads up on that info. 
. so anyway, just thought id give u a heads up on that info. Trending Topics
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"All Motor 9 Second club member"
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From: On the Bumper!
You can't go wrong with any of the cams, but remember though that it's not just the lift that effects P to V clearance. Duration is also a vital factor so always check the clearance. MTI can also fly cut the pistons for you if you are local.
My G1 may be a little on the small side by todays standards, but it fits my combo without over camming my 3.23 gears.
I managed 6.9s in the 1/8 with my few shake down runs last week.
Good luck with which ever cam you decide
My G1 may be a little on the small side by todays standards, but it fits my combo without over camming my 3.23 gears.
I managed 6.9s in the 1/8 with my few shake down runs last week.
Good luck with which ever cam you decide
[QUOTE=TXCAMSS]You can't go wrong with any of the cams, but remember though that it's not just the lift that effects P to V clearance. Duration is also a vital factor so always check the clearance.
very true....thanks for clearin that up
very true....thanks for clearin that up
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From: San Angelo, TX
Originally Posted by The35thZ
i was talkin to the boys at mti...im also taking advantage of the head/cam package. the word is, with a cam as big as the y1, u will almost certainly need to fly cut your pistons for clearance.....cuz the valves dont open straight down...they come down at an angle, so u need the extra room. but heres an idea for u, im having dave custom grind a cam for me from comp...dave wont charge u a penny more for it. its written right on the page. custom grinds at no extra cost. im in the same boat as u, i wanna go as large as i can without having ptv clearance issues. i will probably go with a single pattern...maybe slightly split around a 230 or 232 duration, with maybe .590 to .595 lift. and im gonna get it cut on a 114 lsa for idle quality. i dont wanna go over .600 lift cuz i dont think i could sleep well at night knowing what my clearance would/would not be . so anyway, just thought id give u a heads up on that info.
. so anyway, just thought id give u a heads up on that info.
Originally Posted by 69_YENKO
thats a great idea. I'll look into getting something like the R1 cut on a 112 lsa, with lift in the .585--.590 range
"All Motor 9 Second club member"
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From: On the Bumper!
It's just me, but since I have the G1 on a 113 and the idle quality is very good, I would not raise it to 114 LSA. Only because it will push the power band back a bit and cause you to have to turn the motor to a higher rpm to get the most out of it. If you have custom tuning now with your current cam , the idle will be fine.
If you push the power band back to much (even tough it's very little) the converter may not meet the power band at an efficient point and in turn could cost a bit of 60 ft.
That was my concern, but I managed high 1.4s-1.5s so I was very pleased.
Good luck either way.
If you push the power band back to much (even tough it's very little) the converter may not meet the power band at an efficient point and in turn could cost a bit of 60 ft.
That was my concern, but I managed high 1.4s-1.5s so I was very pleased.
Good luck either way.
Originally Posted by TXCAMSS
It's just me, but since I have the G1 on a 113 and the idle quality is very good, I would not raise it to 114 LSA. Only because it will push the power band back a bit and cause you to have to turn the motor to a higher rpm to get the most out of it. If you have custom tuning now with your current cam , the idle will be fine.
If you push the power band back to much (even tough it's very little) the converter may not meet the power band at an efficient point and in turn could cost a bit of 60 ft.
That was my concern, but I managed high 1.4s-1.5s so I was very pleased.
Good luck either way.
If you push the power band back to much (even tough it's very little) the converter may not meet the power band at an efficient point and in turn could cost a bit of 60 ft.
That was my concern, but I managed high 1.4s-1.5s so I was very pleased.
Good luck either way.
oh yeah, and im an m6. by the way, do u have the 2e heads?
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From: On the Bumper!
There is not a huge power band shift, but I want to be sure that I launch from a strong enough powerband that I get a hard hole shot and not a bog or lag. Like putting a huge cam in a car with a stock stall. It would be a turd on the launch.
I have the MTI Stage 2R heads. If you are an M6 then you have no worries. My idle is very good and stable. Again I was scared to lose my good idle quality, but I was pleasantly surprised especially in an auto. My wife does drive it every day and she would not hesitate to let me know if there were any issues.LOL....no really.
The low end and mid range power is very strong. The low 60 fts confirmed that and the SOTP backs that up.
I have the MTI Stage 2R heads. If you are an M6 then you have no worries. My idle is very good and stable. Again I was scared to lose my good idle quality, but I was pleasantly surprised especially in an auto. My wife does drive it every day and she would not hesitate to let me know if there were any issues.LOL....no really.
The low end and mid range power is very strong. The low 60 fts confirmed that and the SOTP backs that up.
