blkZ28spt

Okay, still in the middle of my cam/spring swap. Just got back from Iowa and want to do springs tomorrow. I just rented the only kind of valve spring compressor that autozone has and I do not see how it will work. The inside diameter of the two "prongs" that appear to be used to go outside of hte spring (I think??) is less than 1" and that obviously will not go around the spring. (new springs are PRC duals) It also does nto appear to be adjustable. How does it work/can you use it? It appears to be the EXACT same as the one that sears sells.....
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/catal...uModelNo=47704
Will it work, is the autozone diff from the sears, or am I missing something?


EDIT: I'm an F-tard. I think I get it now. The bottom of the jaws grab the spring in between some coils near the bottom while the two prongs I spoke of do NOT go outside the spring, they push down on the sides of hte retainer. That would explain how people turn valvetrain parts into projectiles. I just don't think sometimes.

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

Now ya got it. The craftsman valvespring tool works great. The last set of springs I did on my buddies car, we actually cut about 3 inches off of the shaft of the valvespring compressor, and threaded two nuts on it (instead of turning the t-handle) & it made it much easier to get it under the cowl on the car to get springs on cylinders 5-8. Good luck.

blkZ28spt

Thanks backNblack. It's being a royal PITA right now. I have TWO springs done (cylinder #1 ) and it took me, well, TOO long. It would help if I had an air compressor, I might have to try the rope/yarn/whatever trick to stuff the cylinder or borrow an air compressor at this rate becasue the valve ends up getting bumped and sliding down into the piston to really make it difficult on me. Those retainer locks are the root of all evil! I think I will try the twin nut thing, I remember reading how someone else did that. I'll just let autozone keep my $20 deposit on it, after all, it's the exact same as the one they sell for that much.

retainer locks!

jrp

iTrader: (16)

thats a piece of **** tool, i hated that one. i tried that, the lever tool with the handle cut off. i finally said **** it and bought this



expensive but worth every penny. i think the tool now to get is the new crane one, where you can do 2 springs at once.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

where did you get that tool jrp?

blkZ28spt

You know jrp, I considered ordering the crane tool. Figured that I could order it tomorrow, try to have it shipped overnight or two day air or something (I'm anxious to get this running) and figure that if I didn't have them done by the time it came I'd use it and if I did have them finished I'd be happy and save it for when I have to replace them. It's just so much money. But then again this is a PITA and the compressor gets in the way of putting the retainer locks in.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

SDPC

but like i said, i think the crane tool is better. but it wasnt available when i bought mine.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

like i said, the SDPC tool was worth every penny to me. my car sat for 3 days before i could finish the springs up. like you its hard to compress the retainer down straight to be able to get the locks in with those shitty tools. i've more then got the use out of the SDPC with the amount of springs i've swapped on my own car and helping other guys out.

pdd

iTrader: (3)

what brand is that tool? sdpc has a few of them with no pics. thanks pat

jrp

iTrader: (16)

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/3053...Compressor.htm

blkZ28spt

So last night I did cylinder #1. It only took me ~1.5 hours.....or more I am not sure.

I just called Thunder Racing, I should have one of the crane cams tools here by noon tomorrow.

Just more money though.

XIII

Post up when you use it and let us know how it went. I used the same tool you did and it took me the better part of 2 days . I would love to hear how the crane works.

99BackNBlackZ28

iTrader: (5)

When I used the craftsman tool it was the first time I had personally dug into a spring install portion of a cam swap. We used the tool as it was originally meant on cylinders 1, 3, & 5. That took us almost 2 hours. I then had the bright idea of the cutting/threading the bolts onto it. The rest of the cylinders took us maybe an hour & a half. But, we did have an air compressor so we didn't have to worry about the valves.

blkZ28spt

Yeah an air compressor would be nice. One of the advantages to the crane tool will be that I can rely on friction to hold the valve up ALL the way and I won't keep bumping it down into the piston because the spring tool gets crooked and hits the valve. Not something I would have realized until trying the swap myself. The added height above the tool will be great to clear hoses/cowl/etc plus I will have lots moer room to maneuver the stupid locks into place. With the GD craftsman tool you have to work in between the sides of the tool.

Edit: Hey jrp, when you replaced the front engine cover's seal (the one around the crank snout, not the perimeter gasket) did it come right out in on piece? I'm thinking this is another case of 98's being slightly different because I just went to hammer mine out per the JMX guide and the screwdriver goes right though it. It's rubber (but cold and brittle in my garage) and I can't see how to get it off in one piece w/o causing more damage to the seal than I already have.

Droptopws6

iTrader: (13)

I have the crane cams tool, it took me 15 minutes per SET of springs until I reached number 8 then things slowed down a bit. Air compressor made life a heck of alot easier too.

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

So are you trying to say that it's impossible to use crane spring compressor, and the TDC method to keep the valves closed at the same time ?

blkZ28spt

This is something I realized when I actually did some myself. The TDC method will keep the valve most of the way up. It will still drop what appears to be 1/8" maybe more. The TDC method keeps you from dropping a valve into the chamber BUT the compessed air (which I don't have) will keep it ALL the way up and make life much easier in terms of keeping the springs centered around the stem and getting the stupid locks on/off of the stem.

AdamSS

iTrader: (3)

Interesting..... Well then - I guess I'll have to rent air compressor after all....
Too bad that "exception" isnt mentioned in Jmx's write up.....

I'll do both TDC and compressed air, just in case....

Stu Cool

iTrader: (13)

If you don't have an air compressor pull the plug and stuff a length of rope into the plug hole, then rotate the motor until the piston pushes the rope up against the underside of the valves. Once the springs are changed pull the rope out and go to the next one. Use rope that is as lint free as possible.

good luck

Pat

blkZ28spt

Actually once I got the hang of using the spring (and other) tools it was a piece of cake. No reason you couldn't do each cylinder in 15-20 mins w/o the air compressor. It only took me 20-25 going slowly with dual springs and I was uneccesarily removing the spring tool after removing the stock springs. Once I got it down 15-20 mins per set was no sweat. All I have to do now is reassemble and cross my fingers.

One thing that worries me is the stupid valve retainer lock (or key, or keepr, whatever you call it) that I lost. It popped out of the rearmost spring on #8 and I never found it. I only hope that it didn't manage to somehow go inside, and rather fell down by the K-member.