just installed cam/springs. tips/hints/info inside! Promised post!
#21
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I don't know what all the fuss about heating the pulley or cooling the crank to get the pulley on and off is all about. If I have to think about what the molecules are doing when I'm removing a crank pulley I think I'll put my wrenches down for a while and go read "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenace" again just to clear my head. All this heating and cooling stuff is a waste of time and hapens to be unnecessary to boot. Stop and think about what the pulley is powering:
A/C compressor, power steering pump, alt., water pump. That's it. None of those require a tremendous amount of torque because if they did GM would have continued the keyway all the way to the end of the crank snout. Note that the oil pump/cam drive sprocket on the crank is keyed, but the crank pulley itself is NOT. That should tell you something. The pulley is an interference fit which means it better be pretty snug on the crankshaft, but not so tight that heating or cooling is required to remove or install it. That doesn't mean the pulley jumps on or off because it doesn't, but with slow steady pressure in either direction that pulley is going to move slowly, but surely.
A/C compressor, power steering pump, alt., water pump. That's it. None of those require a tremendous amount of torque because if they did GM would have continued the keyway all the way to the end of the crank snout. Note that the oil pump/cam drive sprocket on the crank is keyed, but the crank pulley itself is NOT. That should tell you something. The pulley is an interference fit which means it better be pretty snug on the crankshaft, but not so tight that heating or cooling is required to remove or install it. That doesn't mean the pulley jumps on or off because it doesn't, but with slow steady pressure in either direction that pulley is going to move slowly, but surely.
Last edited by eallanboggs; 01-01-2005 at 07:31 AM.
#23
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
I don't know what all the fuss about heating the pulley or cooling the crank to get the pulley on and off is all about. If I have to think about what the molecules are doing when I'm removing a crank pulley I think I'll put my wrenches down for a while and go read "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenace" again just to clear my head.
Originally Posted by eallanboggs
Note that the oil pump/cam drive sprocket on the crank is keyed, but the crank pulley itself is NOT. That should tell you something.
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Originally Posted by eallanboggs
The pulley is an interference fit which means it better be pretty snug on the crankshaft, but not so tight that heating or cooling is required to remove or install it.
Originally Posted by eallanboggs
.....but with slow steady pressure in either direction that pulley is going to move slowly, but surely.
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#24
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Never tried heat but I know that would make it easier. I was a little apprehensive about heating a pulley and crank since I don't know if it should be.
Here's what I do for the crank pulley and crank gear.....
I used an old snap-on set (my dad's) with various configurations to get my ASP pulley off. Made very short work of it. To reinstall it I made my own install tool out of M16 threaded rod, M16 bolt and two washers. Installed very quickly without fear of stripping crank threads. I purchased a posi lock model but it didnt work for the ASP so I was already yo return, however, it worked great on the crank gear. Popped off no problem. To reinstall the cam gear I used the stock and a rubber mallet to "bang" it on.
Here's what I do for the crank pulley and crank gear.....
I used an old snap-on set (my dad's) with various configurations to get my ASP pulley off. Made very short work of it. To reinstall it I made my own install tool out of M16 threaded rod, M16 bolt and two washers. Installed very quickly without fear of stripping crank threads. I purchased a posi lock model but it didnt work for the ASP so I was already yo return, however, it worked great on the crank gear. Popped off no problem. To reinstall the cam gear I used the stock and a rubber mallet to "bang" it on.
#26
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Originally Posted by family sedan
The lifters would just not stay up during my cam swap. We ended up using 5/16 brake line on both sides, with the drivers side slightly compressed with a hammer. This worked great. Just make sure it is 100% straight.
how long should these tubes be the exact lenght of cam?
Thanks
#27
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Originally Posted by badmfkr
sounds like a good plan
how long should these tubes be the exact lenght of cam?
Thanks
how long should these tubes be the exact lenght of cam?
Thanks
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Good writeup, on that JP tool that holds the lifters up from Thunder Racing, I was looking into making something rather than spending the $70.00 on the tool. What is the thickness of the rod and the length? Would a 3/8 piece of pipe work with a handle welded on the end?
#31
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
No reason not to make whatever you use to hold the lifters up longer than the cam. You will want some of it to stick out the front of the block. It won't be in the way and will make sure that you have an easy time removing them once the new cam is in.
I thought a wooden rod was the safest way to hold up the lifters metal mite srach the block.
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Originally Posted by KurtRardin
Hey did any of yall use a new oil pan gasket?...Wow...that has to be one of the most retarted questions I've asked on here, but seriously...did you?
When you get in there and do the swap you wills ee that swapping the oil pan gasket would be hard to do. You do not actually drop the oil pan because it runs into the K-member. All you do is drop the front portion of it a few inches, giving just enough room to work on the oil pump.
#38
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Thanks, also where's the cheapest place to buy cam gaskets? Dont say TSP because they want $20 to ship gaskets. Rediculous! I would be embarrassed to ask that much to ship a bolt and a few gaskets. I've got an order goin with SDPC but they want $63 for a gasket set...which includes valve cover gaskets. Would it be cheaper to just buy the gaskets individually?
#39
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Originally Posted by KurtRardin
Thanks, also where's the cheapest place to buy cam gaskets? Dont say TSP because they want $20 to ship gaskets. Rediculous! I would be embarrassed to ask that much to ship a bolt and a few gaskets. I've got an order goin with SDPC but they want $63 for a gasket set...which includes valve cover gaskets. Would it be cheaper to just buy the gaskets individually?
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I would start with different sponsors, then local places like Autozone, NAPA, Pep Boys, GM dealers and various shops. See who has has them and who has the best price.