eallanboggs

iTrader: (1)

I don't know what all the fuss about heating the pulley or cooling the crank to get the pulley on and off is all about. If I have to think about what the molecules are doing when I'm removing a crank pulley I think I'll put my wrenches down for a while and go read "Zen and the art of motorcycle maintenace" again just to clear my head. All this heating and cooling stuff is a waste of time and hapens to be unnecessary to boot. Stop and think about what the pulley is powering:
A/C compressor, power steering pump, alt., water pump. That's it. None of those require a tremendous amount of torque because if they did GM would have continued the keyway all the way to the end of the crank snout. Note that the oil pump/cam drive sprocket on the crank is keyed, but the crank pulley itself is NOT. That should tell you something. The pulley is an interference fit which means it better be pretty snug on the crankshaft, but not so tight that heating or cooling is required to remove or install it. That doesn't mean the pulley jumps on or off because it doesn't, but with slow steady pressure in either direction that pulley is going to move slowly, but surely.

99ssleeper

iTrader: (98)

thats nice....except heating it does help.

blkZ28spt

It's not complicated dude. Heat=expand. Cool=contract.




The cam drive sprocket needs to be keyed in order to get the cam and crank in sync. Unless you want your exhaust valve to be open to it's max while that piston is at TDC you probably want to have them aligned properly. I don't think it matters if the pulley is lined up with anything, now does it? After all, all it does is turn a belt.


And why is that? Did you just decide that it won't be that tight because you say so?



Oh really. Have you ever swapped the pulley? What did you do to get the pulley back on? I'd be willing to bet you didn't take a cool pulley to a similerly temped crank snout and just push it on with your hands.

BLASTER

iTrader: (4)

Never tried heat but I know that would make it easier. I was a little apprehensive about heating a pulley and crank since I don't know if it should be.

Here's what I do for the crank pulley and crank gear.....

I used an old snap-on set (my dad's) with various configurations to get my ASP pulley off. Made very short work of it. To reinstall it I made my own install tool out of M16 threaded rod, M16 bolt and two washers. Installed very quickly without fear of stripping crank threads. I purchased a posi lock model but it didnt work for the ASP so I was already yo return, however, it worked great on the crank gear. Popped off no problem. To reinstall the cam gear I used the stock and a rubber mallet to "bang" it on.

FILE

iTrader: (5)

Great write up.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

sounds like a good plan

how long should these tubes be the exact lenght of cam?

Thanks

blkZ28spt

No reason not to make whatever you use to hold the lifters up longer than the cam. You will want some of it to stick out the front of the block. It won't be in the way and will make sure that you have an easy time removing them once the new cam is in.

fire_boy06

Looks Like A Beast!

nokeman

iTrader: (30)

Started out as a GREAT writeup and has turned into a GREAT thread!!! This is helping a lot of people. Congrats on the swap and the MS3!! This is why I love LS1tech!!

98-LS1

iTrader: (4)

Good writeup, on that JP tool that holds the lifters up from Thunder Racing, I was looking into making something rather than spending the $70.00 on the tool. What is the thickness of the rod and the length? Would a 3/8 piece of pipe work with a handle welded on the end?

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I'm digging my new cam thanks for all the advice.

I thought a wooden rod was the safest way to hold up the lifters metal mite srach the block.

blkZ28spt

Bump, just because I can. Yes, I know this thread is more than two years old.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

thanks again for all you're advice because you can advice.

keep up the good work for us newbies

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Hey did any of yall use a new oil pan gasket?...Wow...that has to be one of the most retarted questions I've asked on here, but seriously...did you?

Black_98Z

iTrader: (13)

Nice writeup and great info. Thanks

HavATampa

iTrader: (49)

Huh?

blkZ28spt

Re-use.

When you get in there and do the swap you wills ee that swapping the oil pan gasket would be hard to do. You do not actually drop the oil pan because it runs into the K-member. All you do is drop the front portion of it a few inches, giving just enough room to work on the oil pump.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

Thanks, also where's the cheapest place to buy cam gaskets? Dont say TSP because they want $20 to ship gaskets. Rediculous! I would be embarrassed to ask that much to ship a bolt and a few gaskets. I've got an order goin with SDPC but they want $63 for a gasket set...which includes valve cover gaskets. Would it be cheaper to just buy the gaskets individually?

blkZ28spt

I dont' know. I got mine from TSP. But I got everything for my cam swap from them. Cam, dual springs/seats/seals/retainers, pushrods, oil pump, Rollmaster double timing chain, bolt/gaskets...for $1k shipped. This was over two years ago though.

I would start with different sponsors, then local places like Autozone, NAPA, Pep Boys, GM dealers and various shops. See who has has them and who has the best price.

KurtRardin

iTrader: (11)

I work at Advance, so I might have to check there. So i need a new balancer bolt, water pump gaskets, front seal, timing cover...and what else?